Power band, What is yours (high HP NA Only)
#52
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An SAFC works with the stock AFM though, if you want to get rid of it or use another one, then you'll really need to get a standalone. With a standalone engine management computer you can run the car in speed-density or alpna-n modes where it computes the airflow indirectly rather than measuring it. This allows you to have no AFM to restrict the flow. The Megasquirt can do this for under $500, and there's a plug and play system availalbe on the forum here for the S4's.
#55
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Too bad the FC AFM pulses...
and then I could get rid of the flapper, which visually looks like a restriction in the air intake. I know their is a lot of debate on this, but I installed one (ss maf) on my lost vw (black one) and it made a noticeable difference, and a half second of my et.
Others have built very strong running non-turbos while still using the stock AFM.
I dunno what kinda gains you're looking for, but the major restriction isn't the AFM, unless we're talking extemes here.
-Ted
#56
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That is what happens when you meet a suburban parked in the middle of the highway....
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An SAFC works with the stock AFM though, if you want to get rid of it or use another one, then you'll really need to get a standalone. With a standalone engine management computer you can run the car in speed-density or alpna-n modes where it computes the airflow indirectly rather than measuring it. This allows you to have no AFM to restrict the flow. The Megasquirt can do this for under $500, and there's a plug and play system availalbe on the forum here for the S4's.
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That's not what happens when I meet a suburban parked in the middle of a highway, I tend to slow down or change lanes and go around. Odds are it's not parked in the middle of a highway all of a sudden. Remember the rest of the windows in your car are just there for changing lanes, not for going forward.
I just found out my wife is prego, so all plans have changed. It will most likely turn into project MPG, as it looks I am getting a second job. Oh well....
#66
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Here are the common mods for good NA power without really hurting the low end:
Same bolt-ons as piston plus:
5th and 6th port activation
VDI
moderate street port
s5 (1989+) rotors, maybe.
Do a forum search for more info. Tuning with an SAFC, standalone, etc. will also add a good chunk of power but you risk hurting the engine if you go too far. The fuel system and drivetrain do not need upgrading to handle the power gains from the basic upgrades.
Also for handling:
same as other cars plus DTSS (search)
And as a Porsche owner I'll bet you'll appreciate the RX-7's 50:50 weight distribution and low moment of inertia. Plus other similarities. Mazda has had their eye on Porsche for a while.
Same bolt-ons as piston plus:
5th and 6th port activation
VDI
moderate street port
s5 (1989+) rotors, maybe.
Do a forum search for more info. Tuning with an SAFC, standalone, etc. will also add a good chunk of power but you risk hurting the engine if you go too far. The fuel system and drivetrain do not need upgrading to handle the power gains from the basic upgrades.
Also for handling:
same as other cars plus DTSS (search)
And as a Porsche owner I'll bet you'll appreciate the RX-7's 50:50 weight distribution and low moment of inertia. Plus other similarities. Mazda has had their eye on Porsche for a while.
#67
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Here are the common mods for good NA power without really hurting the low end:
Same bolt-ons as piston plus:
5th and 6th port activation
VDI
moderate street port
s5 (1989+) rotors, maybe.
Do a forum search for more info. Tuning with an SAFC, standalone, etc. will also add a good chunk of power but you risk hurting the engine if you go too far. The fuel system and drivetrain do not need upgrading to handle the power gains from the basic upgrades.
Also for handling:
same as other cars plus DTSS (search)
And as a Porsche owner I'll bet you'll appreciate the RX-7's 50:50 weight distribution and low moment of inertia. Plus other similarities. Mazda has had their eye on Porsche for a while.
Same bolt-ons as piston plus:
5th and 6th port activation
VDI
moderate street port
s5 (1989+) rotors, maybe.
Do a forum search for more info. Tuning with an SAFC, standalone, etc. will also add a good chunk of power but you risk hurting the engine if you go too far. The fuel system and drivetrain do not need upgrading to handle the power gains from the basic upgrades.
Also for handling:
same as other cars plus DTSS (search)
And as a Porsche owner I'll bet you'll appreciate the RX-7's 50:50 weight distribution and low moment of inertia. Plus other similarities. Mazda has had their eye on Porsche for a while.
There is no similarity's between a 911 and a rx-7.
-Stock a 911 will need major work around 60k (clutch, valve seals, maybe tranny rebuild)
-Take 911 engine apart and do everything you can to it and you maybe get 40hp.
-the only real way to increase power is through a turbo(s).
-Which is the same for any piston car
-go through and put suspension on it, and you it will cost you around 6k
-so in other works to make it faster and put suspension on it you are looking around 15k if not more.
-How many rx-7s can you buy for that?
#68
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Yeah I know. I was on a two lane bridge comming over a hill driving into the sun. All the odds were against me. That volvo saved my life so I can be made fun of!! . Anyways.
I just found out my wife is prego, so all plans have changed. It will most likely turn into project MPG, as it looks I am getting a second job. Oh well....
I just found out my wife is prego, so all plans have changed. It will most likely turn into project MPG, as it looks I am getting a second job. Oh well....
#69
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I have to take a little issue with that, most piston cars (although not premium cars like Porsches which are fairly well setup from the factory) the big payoff HP combo is HCI (heads, cam, intake). You want to talk about only way to increase power, the stock smallblock Ford engine is a dog. 5 liters and 200-210 hp. With nice matched head, cam, intake setup, you can get to 350 or thereabouts before adding any kind of force induction. That's almost double the stock numbers.
#70
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My NA, which is a GTUs has great response and pull for stock ports, I can actually navigate uphills in 5th gear while accelerating without having to downshift (65-70 mph+ though)
What I would consider a basic upgrade list if you have an NA, (though especially potent for a GTUs)
Cone filter with heat shielding and tunnel for cold air
Full Exhaust (Collected or Road Race True Dual)
Rtek7 2.0
Keep the 5th/6th ports closed for as long as possible with the Rtek7
Make sure the VDI works
I currently run a stock airbox with a K&N drop-in, since I don't feel like cutting into my body to make a tunnel for cold air to enter. I also run RB's collected full exhaust system (headers, pre-silencer, catback), though I think the road race would give me even more low end pull at the expense of the high-end power. That's pretty much it, before you get into porting. I made three dyno pulls with the Rtek7, opening up the 5th/6th ports as early as possible, as late as possible and somewhere in the middle. My dyno pulls resulted in the late as possible setting resulted in the best low end repsonse. Timing is also a crucial part, as it lets you shift your powerband lower, a welcome aid for the rotary engine. I have about a 31 degree advance on my car, running 87 octane without any problems. At idle I'm still at 5 degrees ATDC, but I've seen my timing advance as high as 26-30 degrees BTDC. EMS is a key tool when it comes to making the most of what you have. When I played around with VDI settings, it seemed to make the most power wherever I left it, so I left it somewhere in the middle, near stock settings.
Depending on the air temp, I make between 153 - 167 whp on stock ports, with great pull from the low end. The EMS was responsible for giving me 12 whp. (Baseline: 141 whp, after tune: 153 whp, Stock settings the night before: 155 whp). Though now, with the temps cooling off even more, I should be in the 170 range.
What I would consider a basic upgrade list if you have an NA, (though especially potent for a GTUs)
Cone filter with heat shielding and tunnel for cold air
Full Exhaust (Collected or Road Race True Dual)
Rtek7 2.0
Keep the 5th/6th ports closed for as long as possible with the Rtek7
Make sure the VDI works
I currently run a stock airbox with a K&N drop-in, since I don't feel like cutting into my body to make a tunnel for cold air to enter. I also run RB's collected full exhaust system (headers, pre-silencer, catback), though I think the road race would give me even more low end pull at the expense of the high-end power. That's pretty much it, before you get into porting. I made three dyno pulls with the Rtek7, opening up the 5th/6th ports as early as possible, as late as possible and somewhere in the middle. My dyno pulls resulted in the late as possible setting resulted in the best low end repsonse. Timing is also a crucial part, as it lets you shift your powerband lower, a welcome aid for the rotary engine. I have about a 31 degree advance on my car, running 87 octane without any problems. At idle I'm still at 5 degrees ATDC, but I've seen my timing advance as high as 26-30 degrees BTDC. EMS is a key tool when it comes to making the most of what you have. When I played around with VDI settings, it seemed to make the most power wherever I left it, so I left it somewhere in the middle, near stock settings.
Depending on the air temp, I make between 153 - 167 whp on stock ports, with great pull from the low end. The EMS was responsible for giving me 12 whp. (Baseline: 141 whp, after tune: 153 whp, Stock settings the night before: 155 whp). Though now, with the temps cooling off even more, I should be in the 170 range.
#71
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My NA, which is a GTUs has great response and pull for stock ports, I can actually navigate uphills in 5th gear while accelerating without having to downshift (65-70 mph+ though)
What I would consider a basic upgrade list if you have an NA, (though especially potent for a GTUs)
Cone filter with heat shielding and tunnel for cold air
Full Exhaust (Collected or Road Race True Dual)
Rtek7 2.0
Keep the 5th/6th ports closed for as long as possible with the Rtek7
Make sure the VDI works
I currently run a stock airbox with a K&N drop-in, since I don't feel like cutting into my body to make a tunnel for cold air to enter. I also run RB's collected full exhaust system (headers, pre-silencer, catback), though I think the road race would give me even more low end pull at the expense of the high-end power. That's pretty much it, before you get into porting. I made three dyno pulls with the Rtek7, opening up the 5th/6th ports as early as possible, as late as possible and somewhere in the middle. My dyno pulls resulted in the late as possible setting resulted in the best low end repsonse. Timing is also a crucial part, as it lets you shift your powerband lower, a welcome aid for the rotary engine. I have about a 31 degree advance on my car, running 87 octane without any problems. At idle I'm still at 5 degrees ATDC, but I've seen my timing advance as high as 26-30 degrees BTDC. EMS is a key tool when it comes to making the most of what you have. When I played around with VDI settings, it seemed to make the most power wherever I left it, so I left it somewhere in the middle, near stock settings.
Depending on the air temp, I make between 153 - 167 whp on stock ports, with great pull from the low end. The EMS was responsible for giving me 12 whp. (Baseline: 141 whp, after tune: 153 whp, Stock settings the night before: 155 whp). Though now, with the temps cooling off even more, I should be in the 170 range.
What I would consider a basic upgrade list if you have an NA, (though especially potent for a GTUs)
Cone filter with heat shielding and tunnel for cold air
Full Exhaust (Collected or Road Race True Dual)
Rtek7 2.0
Keep the 5th/6th ports closed for as long as possible with the Rtek7
Make sure the VDI works
I currently run a stock airbox with a K&N drop-in, since I don't feel like cutting into my body to make a tunnel for cold air to enter. I also run RB's collected full exhaust system (headers, pre-silencer, catback), though I think the road race would give me even more low end pull at the expense of the high-end power. That's pretty much it, before you get into porting. I made three dyno pulls with the Rtek7, opening up the 5th/6th ports as early as possible, as late as possible and somewhere in the middle. My dyno pulls resulted in the late as possible setting resulted in the best low end repsonse. Timing is also a crucial part, as it lets you shift your powerband lower, a welcome aid for the rotary engine. I have about a 31 degree advance on my car, running 87 octane without any problems. At idle I'm still at 5 degrees ATDC, but I've seen my timing advance as high as 26-30 degrees BTDC. EMS is a key tool when it comes to making the most of what you have. When I played around with VDI settings, it seemed to make the most power wherever I left it, so I left it somewhere in the middle, near stock settings.
Depending on the air temp, I make between 153 - 167 whp on stock ports, with great pull from the low end. The EMS was responsible for giving me 12 whp. (Baseline: 141 whp, after tune: 153 whp, Stock settings the night before: 155 whp). Though now, with the temps cooling off even more, I should be in the 170 range.
#74
The Silent but Deadly Mod
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If you have an S4, find a way to actuate your 5th/6th ports via an RPM switch. Keeping them closed in the low end contributes a lot to the low end pull of the car. Try to use S5 manifolds to take advantage of if you can, a S5 complete engine would be ideal.