11ft should be more than enough

 

I got away with 6Ft.. but BARELY. Id get 10ft if I was you.

 

I know its an old thread, but does anyone have any updated pics of their setups?

 

A few updated pictures of my setup. Most of the fuel lines are hidden.

 

Thanks Aaron. Is that a oil filter just for the turbo or is it just relocated?

 

I'm sure everyone's seen this pic by now and I've been hessitant on posting more just because I want to see what it will make on the dyno (should be dyno'd hopefully this week or next).

As always Aaron your setup is awesome!



I ended up going stainless steel on everything and also put a fuel cell in and went stainless all the way to the tank. The fuel system cost me a bit more than what I had stated before 500rwhp is the goal now and should be obtainable at 22+- psi on the t70. When the car is back from being tuned I'll post pics, specs, and possibly even times at the drag strip

 

It's just for the turbo.

 

Why is SS hose favored over soft braided hose such as Russel's pro classic hose?

 

Probably for bling; atleast for me, Pvlknight.

B

 

That looks good, Aaron! I can tell you spent some time on yours. If you don't mind a recommendation, get yourself a heat blanket and wrap up that downpipe if you haven't already done so. The combination will dramatically drop under-hood temps and help make the heat exchangers indirectly more efficient.

B

 

Here's my setup:

- 2x Walbro pumps intank
- -8AN flexible to hardline mounted underneath the chassis
- Twin -6AN's to a Mallory removal element fuel filter
- Twin -6AN outs to the fronts of both fuel rails
- -6AN twin inputs to a Mallory EFI fuel pressure regulator
- -6AN single dump off the regulator back to the tank using the factory feed hardline
- Also using a Marren Motorsports FPD tee'd off the secondary rail, firewall side

First photo is from Aug 2007 about 2 years after I did the entire system. The second photo is from about 4-5 months ago and shows how it looks with the manifolds and hot-air pipe installed.

 

Another suggestion while I'm looking at your engine bay, Aaron -- get yourself some wire separators on those plug wires. With them zip-tied together, you're begging for crossfire.

B

 

Here's a few more recent pictures of the stainless and AN stuff, which also shows the current state of the downpipe and manifold.







Also I just installed an HKS EVC VI sot there is now some more -4 plumbing around the turbo and wastegate area.

They have been like that for 3 years now and no issues so far, but I do have plans to organize them a little better. The issue is primarily that the Jacobs wires are too long. Since the boots are sealed to the wire, shortening them is not an easy option. I think if I make some nice aluminum brackets they can snake down the strut tower and then horizontally to the engine but I still think they may be a bit long...

 

Does SS braided hose transmit more heat to the fluid than soft braided hose?

 

I doubt it.

 

That oil filter for the turbo is overkill...not to mention all the adapters you had to use to make it work. Peterson Fluids makes nice 75 micron inline filters that would be a better choice for your "peace of mind".

www.petersonfluidsys.com

 

... and what's wrong with overkill?

B

 

That way of thinking could be your ticket to a job at Chrysler.

 

Not that i think it would ever happen

Imagine if you didn't catch that small filter getting somewhat clogged and suddenly the turbo's only getting half the oil pressure it should be


again, its unlikly, but thats how i look at things.

 

Imagine the fram bypass valve failing and dumping everything that was stuck on the filter through the turbo. At least use a PureOne...

 

purolator oil filters ftw!! lol ummmmm no!

 

Wow, such discussion on such a small part of my car...

The smallest Peterson filter has -8 connections, meaning the same number of adapters minus the cheap NPT adapters. It is also a less convenient shape and far longer. As I happened to have 90% of the fittings necessary for this installation, all I needed to do was to purchase a $20 oil filter relocation bracket and then plumb it up.

The reason I even have a turbo oil filter is because there is no provision on the NA block for a turbo oil feed. As I tap oil from the cooler, it is unfiltered. Thus, a filter is required to be nice to the turbo. Considering that a GT4088R costs more then what most people here paid for their cars, I figured that $50 worth of stuff to give it a clean oil supply was money well spent.

Nothing, nothing at all. Perhaps my "overkill" is why I have not blown a single engine since I started playing with rotary.

Sure. But imagine if I didn't catch a loose lug nut and my wheel fell off. Or a brake line vibrated free and suddenly I had no front left brake. Or I didn't change the main engine oil filter for several changes and it clogged up. Or a petostatic tube fell off of a plane passing overhead, landed into my radiator, punctured the radiator, all my coolant disappeared which caused a slick on the road, making my tires loose traction and throwing me into a wall which collapsed onto a buss load of bikini models on their way to a charity event, the funding from which would have ultimately resulted in the cure for cancer?

Raise your hand if you have had a Fram oil filter fail in real life.

Fram makes 10s of millions of filters per year and OEMs them out a lot of people. If there was really anything wrong with them, wouldn't we be seeing failures instead of just a few silly pages on the Web that say Fram is the root of all evil? Please...People should know me well enough by now on these forums to know I don't think like the typical sheep.

 

Sick *** setup Aaron Cake!!!!!!!

 

Peterson makes more than what you see listed on the website. If you interested try the 800 number and ask about -6 inline filters. Earls makes nice ones too...

Maye you're not trying hard enough

Fram was ranked bottle of the barrel by SAE. Research the SAE J806 and SAE J1858 oil filter tests.

 

Back from the DEAD!!I am building the fuel system from fc3s but was confused on part number
EAR-991954ERL. ON the fc3s page it shows the fitting without any oring style metric side, yet in summit and everywhere else the part number pulls up an oring style metric side?? So for the inlet on the rails is this the correct part number and the fc3s page has the incorrect pic? Thanks in advance..