2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Possible Symptons of poor acceleration?

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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 11:13 PM
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RX7_Edgar's Avatar
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Possible Symptons of poor acceleration?

The FC starts up right away no problems
Strong steady Idle

I've been experiencing like boggy acceleration
When I accelerate above 2-3k rpm's, and then shift up it's starts to hesistate

Also when I start her up, the FC gets low oil pressure at about 10-20 oil pressure but then when I start to drive, the oil pressure starts to go above 30

I feel like the engine lacks power, when I shift to 2nd gear and then I start to press on the gas pedal a little bit harder, the FC just starts to bog after that

Has someone ever experienced this before?
Possible symptons?
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 10:48 AM
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Could be a gazillion things. Search for "poor acceleration" and such. Also, go to your local book store, grab a haynes manual and look at the trouble shooting guide up front. Lots of good starting points ther. I'd check plugs,and fuel supply at injectors,then comp test and change fuel filter...but that's just me.
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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 11:48 AM
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RX7_Edgar's Avatar
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Originally Posted by herrafass
Could be a gazillion things. Search for "poor acceleration" and such. Also, go to your local book store, grab a haynes manual and look at the trouble shooting guide up front. Lots of good starting points ther. I'd check plugs,and fuel supply at injectors,then comp test and change fuel filter...but that's just me.
I have a Haynes Manual
I'm going to check out the Metering Oil Pump to see if that's the symptom
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 01:43 AM
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K I found out the FC is in Limp Mode

I just finished buying a Metering Oil Pump (Electric) for $150, not bad.
On MazdaTrix, they're selling Metering Oil Pump for $1,568

I'll post when I get it installed this Morning and see how it goes.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 02:18 AM
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First thing I would have checked is the cats if you have cats! If they are clogged they will rob your car of power. I am not sure if they woulld affect the oil pressure though! Might be worth looking into.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 06:40 AM
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Check the TPS.

These are possible solutions, not symptoms. The symptom is crappy acceleration.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 07:26 AM
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Ah i could have sold you a eletric omp for much cheaper!!!
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 02:58 PM
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I would check the compression first.

Sounds similar to what my car was doing - power loss. I do not notice an oil pressure loss in mine, but I did not look for it. Mine did seems to take longer to get the oil pressure to normal. My car also was running close to midpoint on the temp scale. Before, it only went to 1/4 on scale.

Found out I have no compression on the rear rotor.

I was replacing parts that could be a problem, like you, and none helped.

The problem I found reading here in the search for my problem - it could be a dozen different things. Start testing and do not replace random parts. That is money that you can save for actually repairing what is really wrong.

C-CK
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 03:07 PM
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Talking

The FC is now Running STRONG

I had the Metering Oil Pump (electric) replaced.
Then after it was replaced, it was taken out for a test drive and it still kept limping and the check engine light came on.

So, they scanned it for codes and it ended up being my ECU (N353) that had bad soldering points and it had to be replaced. Took about an hour to find another ECU but then when we found and bought the ECU (n353) $150, it was plugged back and the FC ran beautiful after that!

Thanks to Carlos Lopez for the Advice
and
Thanks to Alex Lopez and Pito for their help

Thank you for all your fast replies and help.
I appreciate it
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 03:25 PM
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You are lucky, mate. I am going to have to chunk down $2K-$4K to get mine zooming again.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by RX7_Edgar
The FC is now Running STRONG

I had the Metering Oil Pump (electric) replaced.
Then after it was replaced, it was taken out for a test drive and it still kept limping and the check engine light came on.

So, they scanned it for codes and it ended up being my ECU (N353) that had bad soldering points and it had to be replaced. Took about an hour to find another ECU but then when we found and bought the ECU (n353) $150, it was plugged back and the FC ran beautiful after that!

Thanks to Carlos Lopez for the Advice
and
Thanks to Alex Lopez and Pito for their help

Thank you for all your fast replies and help.
I appreciate it
a lot of the time when the S5 OMP fails it takes the ECU with it, they were probably both bad, I'm glad you got it working again.
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