Hi All,

Working on figuring out all that's wrong with my "new" RX-7. 1990 vert, the symptoms are similar to what a lot of others experience; after about 3800 rpm, anything over 1/4 throttle and I get a massive loss of power.

Before I noticed this issue as I was driving down the road at a casual rate, the engine light sometimes was on, and then I would shift and occasionally it would turn off. I drove for a while and this kept happening, but then after a while it just stayed on.

I went to the gas station, filled up the tank, and then when I started her back up, no light.

I figured I would read the codes, following the instructions from this site - http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/ERRORC...KI/kerror.html - but I am having a hard time with the timing of the lights, so I made a video so hopefully some of you guys with a better eye / sense of timing can help me out...

HERE IS THE VIDEO --> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vj0ti6gfhek

I figured out 17 and 18 but couldn't figure out the others...

Thanks!!

 

After watching the video, it looks like you have 4 codes.
12, 17, 18, and 20

The codes start to repeat at about the 45 second mark.

 

i agree that they repeat at that mark, I was having a hard time with 12 and 20 - so here's what each of these are - does anybody have suggestions on my next steps?

12 - Throttle Sensor (TPS) Full Range - Fixed at 20% open
17 - Feedback System (poss O2 sensor) - Feedback cancelled
18 - Throttle Sensor (TPS) Narrow Range - Fixed at full-open
20 - Metering Oil Pump (MOP) position sensor - Basic Fuel Inj and fixed timing

I know there is a thread somewhere around setting / adjusting the TPS, I'll do some searching around that in the mean time...

thanks!

 

also I have no clue how long these codes have been there - I will disconnect the battery and do another test drive some time this week and then re-pull the codes.

 

ok guys after disconnecting the battery, and then turning the car on and letting it fully warm up (15 min idle) I'm down to only code 20.

I'm not sure if the other codes will kick in after I drive it around for a while, but code 20 is the only one that is still there, so that's the one that I'm going to tackle. Luckily there is an excellent thread on how to do that (here) so once I follow those steps I will report back.

 

ok so far I've checked the resistance on the 3 pronged connector off of the OMP as per the FSM and all the resistances were in order. I will move onto the ECU tomorrow. I cleaned the terminals and reconnected. I may start up the car tomorrow again to see if it throws the code again...

 

Another update - I re-checked the resistance on the 3 pronged connector as per the FSM and I realize that yesterday I did it wrong.

Looking at the FSM the three pronged connector is labeled as E2, Vc, and Vo - with the "clip" of the connector on the top of the Vc, and the part that connects to the little metal bracket below the Vc. I had my orentation incorrect.

My E2 - Vc value checks out fine with 1,345Ohms

however, my Vo - E2 (520Ohms) + Vo - Vc (1,763Ohms) is a total of 2,283 ohms which is higher than the 1-2k that it should be.

These findings make me feel a little better as I am ONLY throwing a code 20 and not a code 27. In an effort to save money I will be taking the OMP off the car at some point this week and will attempt to clean / re-wire. It seems like it is just an electrical issue and that the pump itself is working fine (or I would have likely received a code of 26 and/or 27 in addition to my code 20).

I will keep you all updated with my progress. If anybody has any suggestions / comments feel free to chime in, I feel like I'm writing in a diary here...

 

I think this may be my final update here. I noticed that my OMP sensor (which is connected to the OMP) housing was cracked. This is likely what is causing my electrical issues which is why only a code 20 is being thrown.

I will shortly be replacing the OMP and will report back hopefully with good news once I receive and install it.

 

usually when you have a mop code in a S5, the ecu will put itself into limp mode so, after 4-5k rpm you will lose lots of power or sometimes it will just not rev past it.
If you didnt readjust the tps or replace it, the tps code will probably come back.

 

I actually never got a TPS code, I only got code 20 which is an OMP code - and yes, I was going into limp mode once the car reached normal operating temp. I have a new OMP on the way, hopefully once it's installed I will just need to adjust the TPS and everything will work... I just need to go to a hardware store to get a new nut for the TPS adjustment bolt/screw (I have a feeling it's sitting on top of my engine - but I'm not going to take the TB and UIM off just for one nut).