Chriz88DX

iTrader: (1)

ok so i brought the fighters garage camber arm when i got my coil ovrs and lowered my car. but now i keep breaking drive shafts the first one the rear joint went bad the second one the front. mind you this is all 2 months and i do have it cranked as tight as it will go.

so i question is do you guys think the pinon angle causing stress on the drive shaft and causing them to break the joints?


specs on car suspension wise:

foot werks coilovers
master bushing set
solid motor mounts stock tranny mounts
madzatrix rear difff mount
suspension techniques front sway bar with no rear bar
madzatrix sway bar endlinks

gawdodirt

So you have the entire rear assembly on urethane and are trying to get camber by twisting the subframe? The stress of trying to deform the urethane would be big.

Try backing it off as see what happens.

GD

Chriz88DX

iTrader: (1)

ya that too but i think the angle that the driveshaft is sitting at is adding stress also

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Lowering the the car will not have any effect on the pinion angle as you are not changing the position of the differential nor the transmission/engine (only your ride height).

The real question is what condition were these driveshafts you were using. Were they both used and had miles on them? The most likely cause would be you were unlucky and both went out on you.

I am not familiar with the camber adjust you got, but if it is one of those that attempts to twist the entire subframe (like GAW mentioned), that would mess with the angle the differential sits at slightly. Also, again, not familiar with the bushing set you used, but assuming it is poly, you are really stressing those bushings (worse, if you are using anything stiffer than poly) by trying to adjust the entire subframe via the dog-bone camber adjuster.

Back off the camber like GAW suggested, and see what happens. You should really look at getting individual camber adjusters.

But basically thats the only thing I can see causing a problem, unless you haven't checked the rear subframe and make sure no bushings are missing and that everything looks straight...

By the way, other thing I can probably see playing a role in this is the possibility of the engine sitting slightly higher if you used some weird mounts (would be very rare), the fact that you have the stock rubber tranny mounts leads me to believe thats a possibility since the rubber mounts may allow that "play" in angle if the engine were to sit higher.

Fleemer

driveshafts will only break if they are binding.

Where are they breaking?

Chriz88DX

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the info

ya but i backed off the camber adjustment some i did have it as tight as it could go.

I will look into the individual camber adjusters tho

and yes my bushing set is all poly the only stock bushing are the diff to frame bushing because I recently changed the diff out

and the drive shaft keep breaking at the rear u jount

jjcobm

iTrader: (18)

Look into adding a pinion snubber. It will help keep the diff in place under load if it is moving around a lot.

Fleemer

if its out of balance it could explain all the breaking : /

Chriz88DX

iTrader: (1)

well i just got a reman one form mazda so i hope it is balanced lol lol

yes i need a pinon snubber just been to lazy to go get one but it is on my to do list now

thanks again for the info guys