2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

pcv and vacuum line routing (searched)

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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 01:41 AM
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Unhappy pcv and vacuum line routing (searched)

I am currently stumped. Im re installing my uim and throttle body after replacing my lim gaskets. Before my teardown I was having a little higher than normal oil pressure and had oil in my intake lines before and after the turbo. A little smoking but not much more than a wisper until I revved higher than 4500. Thought the smoking could be from a faulty pcv or something with the crankcase pressure. I bought the car with all emissions removed and the rats nest removed. Twin scroll is also disconnected. Ive been looking at vacuum diagrams for about 3 hours and cant seem to find any that have the pcv hooked up to the uim (which is where I pulled it off of). Can anyone point me in the direction of some pics or a diagram of how a crankcase vent system would be set up on my car? Its an 87 turbo II.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 01:48 AM
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What do you mean by the twin scroll has been disconnected? What does that do to the turbocharger and the system?

Never mind, I did just found the answer in an older thread and post.

Last edited by S4 Vert; Apr 13, 2013 at 01:52 AM. Reason: Found answer to my question.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 02:59 AM
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Im not sure why. All I noticed was there wasnt an airline connected to the switching actuator and no solenoid for it.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 04:02 AM
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As responded in another thread, you need the twin scroll solenoid valve.
You guys cannot just pull / plug/ throw away without knowing what it is for.
The purge valve can be open to atmosphere or put a catch can there.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 04:03 AM
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Originally Posted by NoPstnsFC
Im not sure why. All I noticed was there wasnt an airline connected to the switching actuator and no solenoid for it.
Whoever the dumb f*ck was did that didn't have a clue what it is.
I bet your low end sucks.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 04:39 AM
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Originally Posted by VANHALEN
As responded in another thread, you need the twin scroll solenoid valve.
You guys cannot just pull / plug/ throw away without knowing what it is for.
The purge valve can be open to atmosphere or put a catch can there.
I have not pulled any parts off, I am having low boost issues and was wondering if the twin scroll solenoid had been disconnected, or faulty on my engine.

Thanks for the advise though, I'll take a look at my twin scroll solenoid valve and related parts tomorrow.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 05:21 AM
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Lol guess im in the market for a solenoid.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 05:43 AM
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And just to be clear the pcv vavle is the black disc thing with several lines connected to it right? Ill post pics this afternoon. I just want to make sure the lines im reconnecting go where they need to. And does the smoke and oil pressure sound like it could have something to do with the pcv system. Oh and btw .......yeah my low end sucks donkey *****. Doesnt feel like I hit boost till about 3k or better. Thanks for your input guys.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 07:56 AM
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here is the diagram for the PCV system
Name:  PCVsystem_zpscc6c5d60.jpg
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 04:02 PM
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The black with 3 ports is pcv valve.
Make sure it's hooked the correct way. Too much pressure (defective pcv or wrong routing) will cause smoking.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 05:02 PM
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Oh sorry, You were having trouble with the diagram.
Looking at the FMS, the top nipple on PCV goes to middle on front throttle body (there should be 3 nipples), bottom Pcv goes to bottom nipple on throttle body, other bottom , larger nipple, goes to oil filler neck.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 05:38 PM
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As ****...your car has no rats rest. Just leave it open to atmosphere or use a catch can.
If using a catch can, one end goes to center iron larger nipple and other to oil filler large nipple.
These PCVs are prone to failure after 20+ years.
Front3 nipples on throttle body should be capped.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by VANHALEN
As ****...your car has no rats rest. Just leave it open to atmosphere or use a catch can.
If using a catch can, one end goes to center iron larger nipple and other to oil filler large nipple.
These PCVs are prone to failure after 20+ years.
Front3 nipples on throttle body should be capped.
So I can eliminate everything else? And just cap off the throttlebody and line going to intake? Also im assuming the catch can will have to have a relief filter to atmosphere correct?
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by NoPstnsFC
So I can eliminate everything else? And just cap off the throttlebody and line going to intake? Also im assuming the catch can will have to have a relief filter to atmosphere correct?
You can eliminate most. Of the solenoids, you can remove all exceot the twin scroll (green). Just remember to cap things as you go . Use GOOD vacuum plugs. Not the cheap thin wall silicone ones. I used zip ties to keep it from popping off.

I don't know what is removed in your car so take a look at the rats nest removal floating around. Pretty simple to do.
You can use ANY catch can you wish as long as it has a vent (filter). Most do anyways.
I left mines open and didn't bother with any catch can. There will be little oil seeping out of the vacuum line (very little) but I clean my engine once a week so it didn't bother me.

Just going by memory and FSM since I did this years ago.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 09:34 PM
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I used the vacuum caps from auto zone/advance auto on my last NA and they always cracked after a short time.

Where can you buy strong durable ones?
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by wthdidusay82
I used the vacuum caps from auto zone/advance auto on my last NA and they always cracked after a short time.

Where can you buy strong durable ones?
Don't buy them from Autozone/ O'Reillys.
Only thing I buy is oil there.
I get mines from Ebay or NAPA.

I hope you still stock heat shield. You cannot leave the manifolds/ downpipe unwrapped or no heat shield. It makes a HUGE difference in keeping temps down in your engine bay.
Without the heat wrap or heat shield, you can't put your face near that area it's so damn hot.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 09:55 PM
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I've got the heat shields for my s5 Turbo, guess ill put exhaust wrap on my list of things to buy, if it will help? That stuff is fairly cheap and I have a full exhaust.

In case you're wondering my car isn't running. It will be soon, I'm just doing at be research I can so its all straight when I put it in.
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 10:29 PM
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Ok quick question. I have an 88 gtu parts car. Since I dont have any of the solenoids that the p/o removed, would any of the solenoids on my gtu be the same as the twin scroll solenoid I need for ny system? Thnks for the info on the pcv I think I finally have my head wrapped around that one!!!
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Old Apr 13, 2013 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by NoPstnsFC
Ok quick question. I have an 88 gtu parts car. Since I dont have any of the solenoids that the p/o removed, would any of the solenoids on my gtu be the same as the twin scroll solenoid I need for ny system? Thnks for the info on the pcv I think I finally have my head wrapped around that one!!!
No. You need to get a solenoid from a S4 TII. You can use a check valve though from the GTU.
Ask someone in for sale section . It should be free.
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 12:03 AM
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Ok will do thank so much!!
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 01:12 AM
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I would check if the actuator rod is attached as well . A rod from the switching actuator needs to be attached to the turbo manifold (flapper door). The c clip sometimes pop out or rusts off.

When you do get the solenoid, one goes to the turbo and other goes to the switching acuator nipple.
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 01:28 AM
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Same line off the turbo that goes to the waste gate right? Yea I checked the actuator arm earlier today alls well there. Might need to adjust it a little bit but its connected just had like a 1/32 inch play.
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 01:28 AM
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Trying to fab a nipple that goes to the actuator right now at work lol
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