well i am goin to premix and need to know where i can find a block off plate for the OMP.. also what do i plug the holes in the motor and intake with?? thanks,
Dave

 

I just used a 1/4" think piece of aluminum and traced the OMP, drilled 4 holes and it works great.... You can use vacuum caps on the oil injectors. The vacuum the motor puts out will hold them on the injectors...

Good luck!

Brad

 

www.k2rd.com

 

Block off plate is from www.K2RD.com

To plug the holes:
Go and buy some 10mm x 1.50 pitch bolts ( I believe 20mm long). Take the banjo fittings from the unused/old oil fittings and grind the nipple off, as shown in the pic:

 

hi banzai

I just bought some short bolts for the rotor housings, I think the specs banzai provided are correct.. but I cut them down to be short enough so I could just bottom the head out. I tried finding hex socket set screws to do it with but failed, metric selection around here is **** poor. I just torqued em a bit and used some red lock tite. On the LIM I had a local shop fill the holes with a TIG welder then ground it smooth.

 

Now take the bolt and wrap it with 1 layer of Teflon Tape. It will be installed with the 2 crush washers and banjo fitting.

 

Here is the bolt, prepped with teflon tape and ready to go.

 

Here is the installed assembly:

 

I have a question.

On a 1990 T2, when you block off the OMP, do you also remove the gear on the inside of the front cover that used to turn the OMP? One snap ring and it should pop out...

 

You cannot remove the metering oil system on the 89+ cars unless you are willing to convert to a standalone ECU (ie. Haltec). If the stock ECU does not see the metering oil pump, it will put the car into limp-mode.

 

someone makes something that plugs into the OMP assembly and you hook it up to a tank and it mixes thew premixed oil in instead of motor oil, everyone familiar or no, if not ill try to find the link...costs $80....

 

Yes, I am installing a Haltech right now. I am going to finish putting the engine back together tonight, and I was going to yank out that gear before putting the front cover back on. Is there any compelling reason why I shouldn't?

 

Someone told me that they used JB Weld to seal a dime over the hole. Will that work?

For a block off plate, You could trace the omp or its gasket (if you have a new one) onto a 1/4" piece of alluminum and cut it out like bkapold@aol.com mentioned above.

 

as for the block off plate.. it will go up against the front cover or on the OMP???

 

It just has to be plugged into the harness to prevent the ecu from going into limp mode. Just keep the thing plugged in and hang it out of the way somewhere.

 

Here is the link to the OMP adaptor:

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm

I have it on my 89 and it works great.

 

I don't see a reason. I am going over to premix now that my engine is about to be rebuilt and will remove the gear myself. It will be parasite drag and a few ounces of excess weight and rotational inertia if it is still there but not driving anything.

 

That oil injection pump adapter is just what I was looking for. At $82 it's a steal! Sure beats premixing. As far as I'm concerned, that idea went out with the old 2-stroke motorcycles from the '60s.

 

i'd still rather have the injectors shoot the oil onto the rotor. it covers alot more of the rotor.

 

The oil seeps out a tiny hole on the rotor. If the engine isnt new and has a bit of carbon it can stop the oil from lubricating quite a bit of the housing. With premix, you are soaking everything. It does a better job imo.

 

Wow, that is the worst thing Ive ever heard. Id you're not going to do something right, dont even bother doing it. jeesh. If I saw that someone JB Welded a dime to the engine as to block of my MOP, Id be irate...