the lines that run down to the omp have constant vac on them so does that mean that my oil injectors are bad, is it normal or do i have the splitter running to the wrong place?

the car is a s4 with an s5 block, *s4 front cover*

 

are you referring to the air bleed lines?

 

You sound like your talking about the oil lines (red in my jpg). Or are you talking about the vacuum lines going to the top of the injectors? Frankly I've never put my finger on a oil line to feel for vacuum or not.

P.S...the rotors intake stroke cause vacuum on the upper nipples. Normal.

 

im talking about the oil feed lines. i tried to check for oil output and nothing came out so while moving the line i noticed it had vacuum. i know oils getting to the omp and im trying to trace down why its not getting past it. im thinking the oils being sucked throught the other lines when i try to test.

 

NO. The rubber lines that go to the top of the oil injectors only see atomsphere pressure. The reason the rubber lines are on there from the factory is because they all join into one line with a little filter. If you are not afraid of anything getting down in them you can just leave the rubber hose off....

 

so then the hose that comes off the splitter goes to a pre tb plate source right? thats the only way they'd see metered atmo pressure, couldnt mazda have just put little filtered caps on the oil injectors then?

 

Yeah, I didn't take time to really read what you wrote. I'm pretty sure the vacuum on the oil feed line is normal. The rotors on their intake stoke pull air from the Spider (vacuum) and the oil feed line is located in/at the same path to the rotors intake as the spider. So I'd expect that to happen.

Just as an aside, if you remove the hose on the back of the throttle body, the one that feeds the spider, and plug the metal nipple on the throttle body but leave that large line to the spider open to atmosphere, the idle will get crummy because you've just allowed unmetered air into the intake. Been there, done did prove that...common sense.

This is a manual OMP so try getting the engine fully hot. Then lift the OMP rod full up and rev the engine to 2000rpms or plus that, and hold that for five minutes. See if that one hose that isn't getting oil, now gets oil and the oil starts rising in the one hose that was empty.

If you felt vacuum, then you know the line and injector are not stopped up. If the 2000rpm for five minutes does not work, I suggest there is a stoppage in the OMP for that line. Just a guess.

Sorry 'bout my lack of understanding what you wrote.

 

no problem. just as a side note, i found that you can remove a rtv blockage in the front cover oil passage with compressed air, in the event that anyone ever needs to know. so you dont need to remove the front cover, just remove the oil cap or dipstik prior to so the air can get out