So my project 7 is currently in a shop getting some touch ups done to get it running in time for a big move.

Now what I've done to it so far over the winter before getting it to the shop due to time contraints are the following:

Swap out '87 NA engine for a '91 TII (S5 I believe this makes it?) JDM as well.
Install most of a Haltech E6X.

Now the shop was finishing up the E6X install and they've come to me with a problem regarding the oil pump which they say they can't wire up properly. From what they tell me the pump has 2 wiring plugs. 1 is a 6 wire and the other is a 3 wire.

Anyone know if
A) This is the Oil pump or the OMP they are referring to?
B) Where I can find a wiring diagram to help these guys out? Apparently the stock manuals have incorrect diagrams or so they tell me because they're getting 0 oil pressure.

Any insight would be great. Thanks a lot.

 

oil pump.

 

I dunno what you're trying to do, but the Haltech E6X cannot control the stock OMP.

Also, the OMP has nothing to do with your zero oil pressure problem.


-Ted

 

the oil pump is chain driven, not electrical.



As is, I cannot think of any particular device int he engine bay that has that many electrical connections to it.

 

The two plugs they're referring to are for the metering oil pump (MOP). It cannot be directly controlled by the E6X. You'll either have to preemix, or convert to at S4 mechanical MOP.
A non-functioning MOP will have zero effect on oil pressure. If you have 0 oil pressure, look for: no oil in engine, a bad oil pressure sending unit/wiring, broken/missing pressure relief spring in the front cover, broken/missing oil pressure regulator, and missing oil thermopellet in the eccentric shaft, in that order.

My guess is bad gauge.

 

It's not uncommon for fresh engines to need a minute or so of cranking to register oil pressure.

 

Thanks guys. I suspected that they were trying to wire up the OMP as the wire pump when they started off by saying "Most cars have mechanical oil pumps but yours seems to have an electric one."

 

I'd be a bit worried if they didn't know of or had seen an electric oil metering pump and are doing this kind of work on an RX-7. Just a heads up, for what it's worth.

scathcart is dead on...if you don't want to pre-mix, have them bolt in an S4 MOP, but make sure they hook up the rod that goes to the throttle lever on the TB (which will require a bit of modifying to adapt to the S5 TB).

The mechanical OMP uses throttle position to adjust quantity of oil metered based on the mechanical connection to the TB, whereas the Electric one does this electronically. The actual method of getting oil to the squirters is still mechanical (rotating oil pump sending oil to the MOP via the front cover).

 

You can also have thm modify the s5 omp and make it work. There is a motor that moves an shaft in an out to regulate the pressure. If you take the motor off and place a screw in the hole, you can regulate the pressure to whatever you want.

 

Yeah, I'm not terribly impressed with the knowledge these guys have shown but I had 3 places actually laugh at me when I asked them to do some work on it so I wasn't able to be too picky...

Ok so here's the real question then. Can I just leave the thing disconnected or should I remove it and put in some sort of blocking plate like I've seen mentioned?

 

Up to you.

I prefer premixing completely, so I remove the MOP.

Other don't like the hastle of putting oil in the gas tank every time you fill up, and leave the MOP, either modified as mentioned above, or changed to the S4 set-up which somewhat maintains the stock load-flow ratio.

 

If you switch to a s4 OMP you will need an s4 front cover as well. The s4 OMP doesn't line up to the s5 front cover. Also, I know of no way the the rod will connect to the s5 TB. The s4 TB has a special attachment to connect to the OMP rod which is not on the s5 TB. This means you will need an s4 TB as well.

 

I more meant is it necessary to physically remove the pump if I decide to go premix? Will leaving it there and disconnected be bad for anything?

 

No, you can leave it there. You're going Haltec you said? I'm not sure if the Haltec has a limp mode like there stock ECU has. When you unplug the OMP on a S5 engine it throws a code and limps your engine... Its not hard to make a block off plate anyway so its up to on leaving it or not. Oh... its not entirely true about the S5 intake won't adapt a OMP Rod... My Turbo engine has a S5 intake setup on my engine and it has a S4 OMP (the engine is completely S5 TII but the car is/was S4 NA, yay turbo swap) I can take pics of how I adapted a OMP rod on my intake so I don't have to run premix which is most times a pain in the *** and theres a chance you could forget to put oil in the gas one night and thats not good at all. The easiest way to do this is get a S4 front cover and mechanical OMP and connect it to the S5 intake. Sounds like your doing the same swap I did on one of my 7's,
Have fun and good luck. Let me know if you have any questions