Oil Pressure Sender adapter solution!
#1
DGRRX
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Oil Pressure Sender adapter solution!
OK, so I am sharing this with all the generations on this forum.
I search here and there and everywhere trying to find a solution to this problem and found only 2 options, but not this one.
While installing my Autometer Oil Pressure sending unit today, I found 2 problems.
1) The sending unit is too close and interferes with the block,
2) The thread pitch is 1/8 NPT, and the block is 1?8 BSPT
The two options I found were this:
1) Try to get it started then just torque it in (fubaring the threads for any other use)
2) Get an adapter that is 1/8 NPT female and 1/8 BSPT male
The only problem really is that the adapter is about $9.00 and has to be shipped (good luck finding it locally) and the "ram it home" solution is destined for problems.
Here is the simplest solution, and I don't know why I haven't seen it before.
Cut the shank with the threads and the hex section from the old sending unit. Drill and tap that shank for 1/8 NPT. Now not only do you have the required distance from the block to clear, but you also basically have the adapter already there to use.
Note this is only for those of us using the stock sender location.
Many thanks to David Grafinkle. He knew exactly what to do when I asked him for a resolution. He said that is something they used to do years ago when there were no adapters.
Pics-
I search here and there and everywhere trying to find a solution to this problem and found only 2 options, but not this one.
While installing my Autometer Oil Pressure sending unit today, I found 2 problems.
1) The sending unit is too close and interferes with the block,
2) The thread pitch is 1/8 NPT, and the block is 1?8 BSPT
The two options I found were this:
1) Try to get it started then just torque it in (fubaring the threads for any other use)
2) Get an adapter that is 1/8 NPT female and 1/8 BSPT male
The only problem really is that the adapter is about $9.00 and has to be shipped (good luck finding it locally) and the "ram it home" solution is destined for problems.
Here is the simplest solution, and I don't know why I haven't seen it before.
Cut the shank with the threads and the hex section from the old sending unit. Drill and tap that shank for 1/8 NPT. Now not only do you have the required distance from the block to clear, but you also basically have the adapter already there to use.
Note this is only for those of us using the stock sender location.
Many thanks to David Grafinkle. He knew exactly what to do when I asked him for a resolution. He said that is something they used to do years ago when there were no adapters.
Pics-
#2
AutoX Donut Maker
I posted doing this for a mechanical guage about a month ago. Had the same problem. Ended up doing the same thing. Just cut the end of my old sender unit off, tapped it, and tada. Looks like a cleaner cut than mine though lol. I don't have a clamp or anything... had to hold it while I hacksawed, so it was crooked.
#3
Lives on the Forum
Really too much trouble unless you have those resources close at hand.
With oil filter pedestal adapter blocks, this is really a non-issue.
I like to have the stock unit working, as to confirm if something is really wrong with the oil pressure.
I personally run the Racing Beat block with a VDO oil pressure gauge.
-Ted
With oil filter pedestal adapter blocks, this is really a non-issue.
I like to have the stock unit working, as to confirm if something is really wrong with the oil pressure.
I personally run the Racing Beat block with a VDO oil pressure gauge.
-Ted
#4
DGRRX
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Not really too much trouble. I think it took about 3.4 minutes. Way less time than mail order and just as effective.
I still want the RB block, so I can do Oil Temp, but for now, this is ideal for keeping the car on the road.
And as far as the stock gauge goes...my actual gauge in the dash is toast, so there is no other way for me to read pressure.
Plus, not everyone can afford the new gauge and the block.
I still want the RB block, so I can do Oil Temp, but for now, this is ideal for keeping the car on the road.
And as far as the stock gauge goes...my actual gauge in the dash is toast, so there is no other way for me to read pressure.
Plus, not everyone can afford the new gauge and the block.
#5
HAILERS
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Originally Posted by djmtsu
Not really too much trouble. I think it took about 3.4 minutes. Way less time than mail order and just as effective.
I still want the RB block, so I can do Oil Temp, but for now, this is ideal for keeping the car on the road.
And as far as the stock gauge goes...my actual gauge in the dash is toast, so there is no other way for me to read pressure.
Plus, not everyone can afford the new gauge and the block.
I still want the RB block, so I can do Oil Temp, but for now, this is ideal for keeping the car on the road.
And as far as the stock gauge goes...my actual gauge in the dash is toast, so there is no other way for me to read pressure.
Plus, not everyone can afford the new gauge and the block.
Been there, done that years ago. It's a good idea. You can buy a tee to go into your *new * fitting and run the stock oil pressure sender and a aftermarket gauge or??? whatever from the same spot.
I've even tapped into the oil cooler return line, banjo bolt, at the rear side housing and used a aftermarket oil pressure gauge.
That said, I also have a RB filter adaper that fits under the oil filter pedestal. That was my first method, sometime ago.
In other words, make some use of those old oil pressure senders. Put 'em to work.
Brass threads real easy with a tap. Piece of cake.
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#8
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
I just go to my local hydraulic store and buy the adapters for $1 each.
It's a clever idea, but if you don't have the necessary tap you'll probably have to go to the same store that sells hydraulic fittings and buy one for several times the cost of the adaptor.
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