Oil Pan Gasket: Best material
#26
Engine, Not Motor
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With the front bolts, you need a swivel socket. Also jack the engine up a bit using the transmission.
I always junk the stock bolts and install longer ones as well. The stockers are stupid short and only grab a few threads.
I always junk the stock bolts and install longer ones as well. The stockers are stupid short and only grab a few threads.
#28
Tango Down
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I'd love to get one of those braces but it's somewhat out of budget right now....lol.
Aaron, what size tap will i need and what bolts do i need? I'm pretty sure i have enough cell material to cut my own composite gasket on top of using rtv.
Definately use a screwdriver with socket head to install pan bolts. I've snapped so many off on other cars (garbage ampro torque wrench). I could have saves some money but atleast now i have the tooling to drill, extract and re-tap said f_ck-ups.
Aaron, what size tap will i need and what bolts do i need? I'm pretty sure i have enough cell material to cut my own composite gasket on top of using rtv.
Definately use a screwdriver with socket head to install pan bolts. I've snapped so many off on other cars (garbage ampro torque wrench). I could have saves some money but atleast now i have the tooling to drill, extract and re-tap said f_ck-ups.
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I want to add that BANZAI RACING's KIT is WAAAY better that RX7STORE's kit.
BANZAI gives long high strength long studs & nut.
RX7STORE's gives stupid longer bolt which makes no sense as it can't be tightened down like BAZNAIs kit.
As for gasket or no gasket, I use HYLOMAR and gasket.
If cannot find HYLOMAR, user non hardening RTV.
As Aaron said, Mazda uses stupid short bolts. Get some longer bolts and washer.
You need to evenly torque all the bolts and cannot do that without a torque wrench. Go over it a couple times to make sure all are set.
It will never leak after that.
#34
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That is a stupid design to use longer bolts which you can't tighten it down and defeats the whole purpose.
#37
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I did mine with the Banzai brace. Cleaning the holes and locktighting the studs was tedious (even with the engine out of the car) but this is clearly a better way to go, especially with the aluminum parts of the block. As a bonus, if you do have to drop the pan like I did to check my pickup tube, it is a LOT easier putting nuts on studs than it is trying to line up and thread 20 some odd bolts on your back.
I get really paranoid about driving steel into aluminum (as we all should!) so having studs locktighted in means that when I'm tightening the pan I'm not twisting steel in aluminum. Let's see, when else are you twisting steel in aluminum... Oh! A drill! And a drill is what you turn an oil pan bolt into when you over tighten it. And since you don't how many times the DPOs have put those bolts in those holes, the definition of "over-tighten" is undefinable. You know you've reached it when it is too late. Kinda like rotary overheating or detonation!
I used just RTV but I hand-tightened the nuts and then let it sit for an hour. Then I torqued it down. My understanding is that if you torque it right away you're going to squeeze the RTV out and have a lot of metal to metal contact. Also, I personally like to hand tighten it so that the RTV spreads out flat. I worry about letting it set up as a bead because it will cure at different rates so when it gets squished out you'll have chucks of hardened RTV.
I get really paranoid about driving steel into aluminum (as we all should!) so having studs locktighted in means that when I'm tightening the pan I'm not twisting steel in aluminum. Let's see, when else are you twisting steel in aluminum... Oh! A drill! And a drill is what you turn an oil pan bolt into when you over tighten it. And since you don't how many times the DPOs have put those bolts in those holes, the definition of "over-tighten" is undefinable. You know you've reached it when it is too late. Kinda like rotary overheating or detonation!
I used just RTV but I hand-tightened the nuts and then let it sit for an hour. Then I torqued it down. My understanding is that if you torque it right away you're going to squeeze the RTV out and have a lot of metal to metal contact. Also, I personally like to hand tighten it so that the RTV spreads out flat. I worry about letting it set up as a bead because it will cure at different rates so when it gets squished out you'll have chucks of hardened RTV.
#43
well rested,buffet o food
^^^^ Permatex is the name brand and Room Temperature Vulcanizing (RTV) silicone is what you are buying.
I used no gasket and high temp red permatex on my oil pan, immediately tightening (no set up time), and have had no issues.
john ny
I used no gasket and high temp red permatex on my oil pan, immediately tightening (no set up time), and have had no issues.
john ny
#46
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very good info in this thread...
while inspecting the underside and in preparation for replacing the fuel filter and gas line,
and 5th gear/back up light switch, which died about 10 years ago...
i noticed just the slightest beads of oil at the back of the pan, no drips just droplets ON the rear corner of the engine housing and at the transmission housing.
wiped it dry, inspected the engine, oil cooler lines, metering pump lines and so on. everything else was bone dry.
i could see no OTHER source for oil, even the filter platform is dry, including the heater hose under it.
it is clearly engine oil, not transmission oil.
after a day of driving in 90+ weather and no leaks on the garage floor the next morning,
but again just the slightest 'sweating' of oil behind the engine mount at the pan corner.
SO i grabbed the small torque wrench and decided to check all the rear bolts, which haven't been touched since 1988.
most were at 4 ft/lbs, so i gradually tighten them until all to ~8-9 ft/lbs.
THEN, started turning the final, CORNER bolt, which just kept turning, with some resistance (about 8 ft/lbs) but no end point.
so apparently this one nut/bolt is stripped or nearly so.
does this mean i can try a LONGER M6 at that one place and it will grab deeper threads?
how much longer and how far IN can a long M6 go? do the threadings OPEN into the engine oil cavity or are they blind/closed ends?
i realize that if the gasket is soaked or compromised the leak may continue till the pan is removed, cleaned and properly sealed...
which i'll do soon.
and i'd consider using either the washers or this fine looking bonzai perimeter pan brace...
but am i gonna have to RE tap that hole?
are there any other options for ONE (or maybe 2) bolts holes that have been over tightened ?
i suppose it all could just be ignored, but i hate knowing that the pan gasket is oozing, and suspect it can only get worse.
thanks
henry
while inspecting the underside and in preparation for replacing the fuel filter and gas line,
and 5th gear/back up light switch, which died about 10 years ago...
i noticed just the slightest beads of oil at the back of the pan, no drips just droplets ON the rear corner of the engine housing and at the transmission housing.
wiped it dry, inspected the engine, oil cooler lines, metering pump lines and so on. everything else was bone dry.
i could see no OTHER source for oil, even the filter platform is dry, including the heater hose under it.
it is clearly engine oil, not transmission oil.
after a day of driving in 90+ weather and no leaks on the garage floor the next morning,
but again just the slightest 'sweating' of oil behind the engine mount at the pan corner.
SO i grabbed the small torque wrench and decided to check all the rear bolts, which haven't been touched since 1988.
most were at 4 ft/lbs, so i gradually tighten them until all to ~8-9 ft/lbs.
THEN, started turning the final, CORNER bolt, which just kept turning, with some resistance (about 8 ft/lbs) but no end point.
so apparently this one nut/bolt is stripped or nearly so.
how much longer and how far IN can a long M6 go? do the threadings OPEN into the engine oil cavity or are they blind/closed ends?
i realize that if the gasket is soaked or compromised the leak may continue till the pan is removed, cleaned and properly sealed...
which i'll do soon.
and i'd consider using either the washers or this fine looking bonzai perimeter pan brace...
but am i gonna have to RE tap that hole?
are there any other options for ONE (or maybe 2) bolts holes that have been over tightened ?
i suppose it all could just be ignored, but i hate knowing that the pan gasket is oozing, and suspect it can only get worse.
thanks
henry
#47
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No gasket. The stuff you really need is called "Right Stuff" You can get it at any parts store, and it works way better than the standard RTV... If that's not available, then just use "Permatex Ultra Black RTV" Make sure the mating surface of the block and the pan are VERY clean and dry though!
you can buy in a a can, or the one for a caulking gun. I bought the smallest one. and that sealed my engine in the rebuild, oil pan, water pump, t-stat, oil return gasket, front cover, and coolant feed gasket. so for about 11 bucks i sealed the entire engine and still had enough left to do another front cover for my buddies engine.
#48
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most were at 4 ft/lbs, so i gradually tighten them until all to ~8-9 ft/lbs.
THEN, started turning the final, CORNER bolt, which just kept turning, with some resistance (about 8 ft/lbs) but no end point.
so apparently this one nut/bolt is stripped or nearly so.
does this mean i can try a LONGER M6 at that one place and it will grab deeper threads?
THEN, started turning the final, CORNER bolt, which just kept turning, with some resistance (about 8 ft/lbs) but no end point.
so apparently this one nut/bolt is stripped or nearly so.
does this mean i can try a LONGER M6 at that one place and it will grab deeper threads?
how much longer and how far IN can a long M6 go? do the threadings OPEN into the engine oil cavity or are they blind/closed ends?
but am i gonna have to RE tap that hole?
are there any other options for ONE (or maybe 2) bolts holes that have been over tightened ?
are there any other options for ONE (or maybe 2) bolts holes that have been over tightened ?
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