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Oil Pan Gasket: Best material

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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 06:59 PM
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Oil Pan Gasket: Best material

My oil pan is leaking pretty bad so I am going to need to change the gasket soon. The FSM says its okay to do it with or without gasket. My question for the guys that have actually done this what did they find the best and easiest way, With or Without gasket? and on top of that what type of RTV is best?

I have searched and found alot of info but I want a thread dedicated to best rtv/gasket rather then how to do.
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 07:01 PM
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black rtv with gasket.

never had a problem with that setup.
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 07:02 PM
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Just black RTV. 3 motors and never had an oil pan leak.
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 07:10 PM
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Absolutely no gasket. Black RTV seems to work pretty well. I have a friend who swears by HondaBond. Whichever one you use, just be sure the surfaces are super clean.
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 07:13 PM
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+1 for just rtv. hi temp is what i use which is usualy black but may be some other colors.
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 08:34 PM
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No gasket. The stuff you really need is called "Right Stuff" You can get it at any parts store, and it works way better than the standard RTV... If that's not available, then just use "Permatex Ultra Black RTV" Make sure the mating surface of the block and the pan are VERY clean and dry though!
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 09:49 PM
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I used a gasket with grey permatex. Dunno what the differences between the black and grey are though :shrug:

Taking it off was interesting though, I had to use a mini crow bar to get it off. Came off like a champ after that.
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 09:51 PM
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I've done it with gasket and RTV and with RTV only, worked fine both times.
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 10:07 PM
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over time the gasket get's hard and as the motor flex'es, the gasket tend's to crack thus oil leak..i go with out the gasket, just make sure you are generous with the rtv..

:AA:
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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 04:30 AM
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No gasket, grey or black RTV and oil pan brace, never leaks a drop...http://www.banzai-racing.com/product..._pan_brace.htm

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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 09:46 AM
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There seem to be as many ways of sealing up the oil pan as there is opinions of which is correct.

I've always used a thin coat of RTV on each side of the gasket, applied to very clean surfaces, and then used washers around the bolt heads. Never had one leak.
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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 10:06 AM
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I guess i will try and use some black rtv because I would have to order the gasket and its 25 bucks.

I had some killer wheel hop a few weeks ago and I think that may be why its leaking so bad.
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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 06:18 PM
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I would go with arroncake on this one, thats what I did(except i used no washers, that is a good idea too) , also make sure you use a ballpein hammer and knock all the bolt holes from inside to outside, this will ensure that everything tightens up well and will also prevent the rough edges of the holes from piercing the new gasket

I just redid mine b/c someone didn't use a gasket and only used RTV, they didn't use nearly enough wich caused the leak, but its a bear to get off that way, so if you ever need in there in the future keep that in mind...
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 02:22 PM
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I followed the FSM exactly and went with black rtv only. I even cleaned the surfaces for over an hour because I wanted it to be perfect and it still leaks. But now its only in the front, before it was the entire pan. Do you think I should try and torque down the front bolts a little better.
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 02:54 PM
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Use the Bonzai pan brace, or some washers on the bolt heads. Did you let the RTV set up before installing the pan?
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Frostycrowd
I followed the FSM exactly and went with black rtv only. I even cleaned the surfaces for over an hour because I wanted it to be perfect and it still leaks. But now its only in the front, before it was the entire pan. Do you think I should try and torque down the front bolts a little better.
Often the threads in the front cover for the oil pan bolts are stripped or very near it. You may want to try chasing the threads and seeing if you can sinch it down a little more. Either way though, the pan should come back off so the mating surface can be cleaned, then try again. (the brace wouldn't hurt either)
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 03:15 PM
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According to the haynes, you dont let the rtv set at all. Just apply and torque the bolts in proper sequence. I need to do this, have two tubes of ultra black at the ready and my engine stand is right next to the car. I can just unbolt the motor mounts, support the motor with the hood off and get it done in about an hour or two. Hell, even better, jack it up by the tranny using a block of wood.

+1 on using washers. I'll do that for sure.
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 03:21 PM
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Check the directions on the tube. Most of the sealants require at least some set time.
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Frostycrowd
I followed the FSM exactly and went with black rtv only. I even cleaned the surfaces for over an hour because I wanted it to be perfect and it still leaks. But now its only in the front, before it was the entire pan. Do you think I should try and torque down the front bolts a little better.
I went this way using Hondabond only. IT leaked. Then I used Hondabond w/ gasket and have had no problems. Go buy the gasket!
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 03:40 PM
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The rtv I used said let it setup for an hour with the pan finger tight than torque it down, I did do this. Where it is leaking is in the front where I couldn't really torque it real good so that may be the problem. Ill have to try again, but I am going to leave it for a little while beause it is barely seeping. I just hate any leak what so ever.

Next time when I pull it I will at least use a gasket and probably a pan brace mostly because it has studs and I do not like having to thread in those bolts.
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Frostycrowd
The rtv I used said let it setup for an hour with the pan finger tight than torque it down, I did do this. Where it is leaking is in the front where I couldn't really torque it real good so that may be the problem. Ill have to try again, but I am going to leave it for a little while beause it is barely seeping. I just hate any leak what so ever.

Next time when I pull it I will at least use a gasket and probably a pan brace mostly because it has studs and I do not like having to thread in those bolts.
Yeah I'd certainly check the front cover threaded holes out. I cursed the Pineapple oil pan up and down for leaking (minor seepage) at the front, but found 5-6 bolts were hardley able to be tightened due to the stripped front cover.

S'all good after switching to a non-molested one.
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 08:08 PM
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Banzai's brace looks fierce.

Anyway... black RTV is the way to go. But then again, if your pan is leaking, consider your RX-7 NORMAL.
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 09:12 PM
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clean the oil pan bolt holes with a tap
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 10:16 PM
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Get a torque wrench/screw driver so that you don't over torque them and strip them out!! I believe you want 8 ft/lbs.
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 10:19 PM
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Get that compressed air can of black rtv too, makes less of a mess. Just squeeze and its like putting cheddar cheese on a cracker.

If you plan on dropping the pan on a constant basis, go no gasket. If you aren't gonna touch it for another 50k or so, I'd get the oil pan brace.

Last edited by LogicFoxX; Dec 3, 2008 at 10:21 PM.
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