YEA! more oil cooling. Anyways I have been thinking of several setups and runing it buy to see what others think.

1# Run dual OEM coolers staked
2# Add a small cooler side vented cooling turbo
3# Run 2 side mount coolers "FE style"
4# Run 1 large oil cooler in OEM location

 

what makes you think you need to upgrade your oil cooler?

 

If I had to venture a guess... it would probably be.... oil temps higher than what he is comfortable with... or that he is going to be putting a lot more stress on the cooling system soon.

 

Does that realy matter?

FMIC, GT40R, 100F 100% humidity, Painted and polished block

Unless I am crazy that all = more heat potential and alot of strain on the motor.

 

There's that stress I was talking about.

 

I think the cheapest way to increase oil cooling would be dual stock units.

 

Theres enough space to go for one taller isn't there? Or change the brake ducts to cool off extra coolers maybe?

 

^ I have no brake ducts because of the FMIC pipe.
Werent you paying attention when you were looking at the car other week? Humor :-)
I have a stock one in the yard but the lower bar is smashed up dont leak as far as I know. Eaither way anything added will have to be custom mounted.

 

Actually i was just lokking at the couplers.

 

when I can get started on my next project I'm going to use metal from one of my parts cars to make it a wide-body. I'll be running two coolers in parallel mounted inside the front fenders...

I've got a sketch somewhere, I'll see if I can find it...

 

Do you actually have an oil temp problem? Do you even have an oil temp gauge? If not, go get one before you waste time and money fixing a problem that may not exist. If you have normal oil temps now, an extra cooler would over-cool the oil, reducing its effectiveness.

 

But then we might not be able to justify getting something new and shiney.

The idea of a extra cooler never appealed to me for the "cooling" abillity...I just like the extra capacity.

 

You are crazy! Painting and polishing the block doesn't create more heat, it adds horsepower.

 

For a street car, it's really a royal waste of time.
90% of the time, added ducting will increase efficiency of the oil cooler, especially when running an FMIC.
With the given set-up, if you are seeing dangerous oil temps, YOU'RE DOING SOMETHING ILLEGAL.
Don't lie...we're talking massive revving at low speeds or sustained high speed driving, both of which imply breaking the law.

Now, if we're talking track vehicle, this is a whole nother story...


-Ted

 

Track? whats that! He has alot of ducting already and it looks pretty straight. DIdn't think anything about oil temps when riding, but didn't really think about anything but the pink at that time.

 

can't really run an oil cooler off the turbo... outlet side of the turbo has to "drain", can't be under pressure, makes putting a standard oil cooler on that line a pretty retarded proposition..

HOWEVER....... If your turbo is mounted in a location that is higher than the stock oil cooler....... You could run a custom cooler off the bottom... IE similar to what the onld drag cars used to use for an oil or fuel cooler... several coils of large tubed aluminum or copper, gotta be the same size as the stock outlet tube or bigger, and the coils HAVE to downward spiral till they hit the return port.. can't have oil building up in there.

You COULD bastardize a cheap, Aftermarket Oil cooler, into a similar setup by cutting it up and re-welding the tubes, but it would have to have BIG tubes in it.

 

That is why there is a thermostat in the oil cooler. Adding another cooler would be the same idea as a larger RAD increasing capacity and thresh hold line.

RETed - Ital see its days but its mainly a street car. And I wont lie I do not OBIDE BY THE LAW, all the time. (nor does she shakes head several times)

RX-Heven -

Makenzie71 Exsactly

 

Umm Yeah, that FC oil cooler is really small.. ...

 

That is not the point of what I am trying to do. It may be adequate it may not only temps will tell when everything is together. On a simple note it has been stated allot on this board that the stock oil cooling system and RAD are good for 350whp. I know this has been disputed by several members on here with there rides. This still is not my full objective. It is about improving on the factory system and setup, to make a more efficient cooling system for the entire car. One example on this is my option of using FE style placements and coolers or FE coolers. All in a objective to utilize more of the cars air passages. Creating bettor flow to the RAD more room for extremer ducting less pressure drops in the airflow.

I am still open for more opinions and suggestions. I am going to be retroing the entire engine bay for many mods and plans I have started on already will take quit some time to finish because of there interagency but this would be a great time to draw out or start custom fabings.

 

If you plan on using the original driver's side oil cooler, then the cheapest way to acomplish an upgraded system is this. Call B.A.T.(British American Transfers) in Bradenton. They are the Mocal distributor. You can get an oil cooler of you choice to fit in the passenger location. I think I used a 19 row if I recall, but you can recheck the size. Get some oil line of your choice. They have the aeroquip press fit style in stock and run the new cooler in series with the stock one. The stock cooler has the thermostat built in so no need to add that cost.

If you want to be really trick, you can do what I did. I found a spare stock cooler and took it to a Hydraulic shop here in Tampa to caniblize the stock quick disconnects. I then had these reattached to the new hose. Now I can switch between one or two oil coolers by simply disconecting the quick disconnect and reattaching it to the block.

For example: The oil feed comes from the oil line off the oil filter pedastal. It then goes to a disconnect below the battety were it connects to the stock cooler. Then it returns from the cooler to another disconnect and back to the block. By orientating you new couplers properly, and hijacking the return line, you can now route the oil over to the passanger side to the new cooler. Then back to the stock return disconnect and back to the block. If you ever loose you passenger side oil cooler, you can isolate it and just put the disconnects back to stock to keep the one cooler working. Just make sure the male and female disconnects on are the correct hoses. The cooler is around $130 and the fitting are like 7 bucks apiece. I think the whole setup cost less than $200 bucks.

Mike

 

oops, that was for my third gen but your setup should be similar. let me know how this pans out

Mike