oil change questions
oil change questions
11-06-09, 06:16 PM
#3
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It is certainly possible to waste your money in whatever manner you wish.
Here is what the FTC thinks of Duralube:
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/05/duralub2.shtm
I recommend sticking with Castrol GTX of the appropriate SAE grade for your regional temperature range as per the Mazda factory manual. Also, believe it or not, the ugly Mazda oil filter is generally considered the best one.
I see that you are a new forum member, so just to clear up a few things:
- Yes, this forum is a bit harsh, but you will see the huge advantages of that if you take it the right way.
- Yes, you will get a lot of information on this website that you will not get on other automotive websites.
- No, we are not like the Honda forums that encourage people to waste money on worthless things.
Here is what the FTC thinks of Duralube:
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/05/duralub2.shtm
I recommend sticking with Castrol GTX of the appropriate SAE grade for your regional temperature range as per the Mazda factory manual. Also, believe it or not, the ugly Mazda oil filter is generally considered the best one.
I see that you are a new forum member, so just to clear up a few things:
- Yes, this forum is a bit harsh, but you will see the huge advantages of that if you take it the right way.
- Yes, you will get a lot of information on this website that you will not get on other automotive websites.
- No, we are not like the Honda forums that encourage people to waste money on worthless things.
11-07-09, 12:55 AM
#4
Now With 10th AE Fun!
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I see that you are a new forum member, so just to clear up a few things:
- Yes, this forum is a bit harsh, but you will see the huge advantages of that if you take it the right way.
- Yes, you will get a lot of information on this website that you will not get on other automotive websites.
- No, we are not like the Honda forums that encourage people to waste money on worthless things.
11-07-09, 09:49 PM
#7
It is certainly possible to waste your money in whatever manner you wish.
Here is what the FTC thinks of Duralube:
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/05/duralub2.shtm
I recommend sticking with Castrol GTX of the appropriate SAE grade for your regional temperature range as per the Mazda factory manual. Also, believe it or not, the ugly Mazda oil filter is generally considered the best one.
I see that you are a new forum member, so just to clear up a few things:
- Yes, this forum is a bit harsh, but you will see the huge advantages of that if you take it the right way.
- Yes, you will get a lot of information on this website that you will not get on other automotive websites.
- No, we are not like the Honda forums that encourage people to waste money on worthless things.
Here is what the FTC thinks of Duralube:
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/05/duralub2.shtm
I recommend sticking with Castrol GTX of the appropriate SAE grade for your regional temperature range as per the Mazda factory manual. Also, believe it or not, the ugly Mazda oil filter is generally considered the best one.
I see that you are a new forum member, so just to clear up a few things:
- Yes, this forum is a bit harsh, but you will see the huge advantages of that if you take it the right way.
- Yes, you will get a lot of information on this website that you will not get on other automotive websites.
- No, we are not like the Honda forums that encourage people to waste money on worthless things.
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11-08-09, 11:49 AM
#10
^^ Don't facepalm it till you try it. I have 150k on my original engine with bad oil control rings (like that when I got it) and abuse the living crap out of it. Constantly canyon racing and keeping it at rpms between 6k and 8k for the past 2 years. The only reason my engine survives is because of that oil combo recommended to me by Paul from rotorsports when I first got the car (Master Mazda Technician and 30+ years building rotaries). If I didn't work next to him I'd still be talking smack about rotaries and driving Silvias.
That's my experience with it anyways. I guess I can't say it will work for everyone.
That's my experience with it anyways. I guess I can't say it will work for everyone.
11-08-09, 03:21 PM
#12
Use any API certified oil, without any additives, and don't worry. The proper additives are already in there. Preferably get 10w30 or 20w50, but no biggy. Most oil filters work great, but there are cleaner premo options like Mobil 1 too.
Most oil additives are snake oil. Some are ultra high viscosity (ultra thick) which will temporarily slow or stop leaks in old engines but eventually causes excessive wear of all parts in any engine. I'm guessing that's what funkjaw has. Don't use them in a good engine!
Most oil additives are snake oil. Some are ultra high viscosity (ultra thick) which will temporarily slow or stop leaks in old engines but eventually causes excessive wear of all parts in any engine. I'm guessing that's what funkjaw has. Don't use them in a good engine!
11-08-09, 03:46 PM
#13
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
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^^ Don't facepalm it till you try it. I have 150k on my original engine with bad oil control rings (like that when I got it) and abuse the living crap out of it. Constantly canyon racing and keeping it at rpms between 6k and 8k for the past 2 years. The only reason my engine survives is because of that oil combo recommended to me by Paul from rotorsports when I first got the car (Master Mazda Technician and 30+ years building rotaries). If I didn't work next to him I'd still be talking smack about rotaries and driving Silvias.
That's my experience with it anyways. I guess I can't say it will work for everyone.
That's my experience with it anyways. I guess I can't say it will work for everyone.
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