This is a followup to this thread I started last week. Let me fill you in exactly with what is going on so I can get answers:

I bought new pads and got the drivers side (is that right or left?) changed and that was okay, so I moved on to the problem side, passenger side. This time I was able to get the caliper free from the pads, but it took a lot of force and hitting it with a hammer many many times. The "hinge pin" it swings open on was very hard to move and I think it is damaged, but I didn't realize I should try to take it off of that at the time.

I could not get the caliper to retract. It seems jammed. I think Clokker said maybe it was overextended and I think it might be, but also I think the caliper is bad. Is there a special way or tool to retract the pads? I was using needle nose pliers as that is what the haynes manual recommends and got the other side although even that seemed really hard and the pliers kept slipping.

The symptoms and why I think the caliper is bad: (this is where I need input)
1. The car was pulsing when pushing the brakes and felt like the brakes were being slightly applied all of the time.
2. The inner pad was worn entirely down to the metal at part of it. Yet the outer pad was brand new still, same exact size as the new pads I bought.
3. The swing pin part is all jammed up and it will not slide back and forth. (I only realized this after putting it back together with the old pads since I couldn't get the new pads on, AND after I was looking online and realized it will be cheaper to get the caliper without the bracket, but I'm not sure if the bracket and pin are reusable?) Any advice on getting the caliper apart and if the bracket can be reused? Sorry if I'm not using the right names of things.
4. Now on the drivers side when I inspected the pads they are worn down unevenly and I noticed this last time I changed them. What I mean is that half of the pad is more used than the other half. Is this normal or is that caliper bad or rotors or something? They also seemed to not be lined up with the rotor, or the pads stick out slightly more than the rotor, that could just be before I put the wheel back on and pressed the rotor tight though.
5. What is the minimum safe thickness of the rotors? Or as long as they are straight are they okay to keep using?
6. I tried to use a c clamp on the caliper to retract it and bent the clamp lol, I was hoping to loosen it up or something. That didn't help.

I need suggestions on if I should buy the caliper without the bracket and try to reuse the one on there or just buy the whole new set. Any recommendations or brands I should avoid? I was looking at like a Raybestos or Bendix I think on rock auto.com.

Do I need to bleed the brakes if I disconnect the brake line to change the caliper??

Sorry for the book and thanks.

 

Way too much thinking/analyzing/wondering going on here.
Replace the calipers, rotors and pads.
Problem solved and should be good for years.

 

if this is the rears, there is a little cube you can buy from any auto parts store that attaches to a socket wrench to help turn them in. Lube, occasional c-clamp, and turning some more will get them in.

Source: did it yesterday

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ot...-EPrpDrtPD_BwE

but, I am with clokker. if you are mechanically aware you could rebuild your calipers at a lesser cost, but...I would spend the money on replacements.

 

I agree. Don't rebuild them. Get rebuilt ones, and some rotors too, to go with the pads u already have. Check rockauto.com . Always do both sides, left and right, when replacing the above. Make sure to get any hardware like bushings, pins, rubbers, and brake pad hardware. And anti-seize or slider lube where necessary. YouTube brake videos...a lot of cars use very similar brake setups. Look for calipers with the ears on them for the parking brake.

 

the only thing I would add if you go this route, pick yourself up a set of line wrenches to greatly reduce the risk of rounding the brake line connection at the caliper itself.

 

Good point. Also known as "flare nut" wrenches.

And make sure to use penetrant (PB Blaster or other good one) on the joint before and leave it to soak for a while before you go at it.

 

You only need one...the 10mm.

 

Thanks guys. I have all the tools I need, except the brake retracter tool which I will buy. I have everything you could need to rebuild and engine and have about 30k on this one I built myself. Ive done brakes before, caliper, rotors, and pads, but its been a while.

What i need to know is if I detach the brake hose do I then need to bleed the brakes?

And is it normal to have the brakes wear unevenly? I know the parts are bad I am trying to learn WHY so in the future I can avoid a catastrophic situation.

I appreciate all of your replies and if anyone can shed more detailed light on this thanks. I cant afford to replace everything. My budget was about $200 of which I spent 36 on registration and will need 80 for inspections so I am really penny pinching here.

 

I WILL come back and replace everything Im not replacing now in a few months when I have more money. For right now I just need it pass inspections lol. And I was suppsoed to get it inspected by May 31st which is tomorrow so im going to be riding without it for a few days. Sucks I am broke. Trust me Id love to replace it all and be done right now.

 

Yes, you will need to bleed the rear brakes after they're disconnected.
Mazda splits the circuits front/rear, so as long as the reservoir doesn't run dry, the fronts will be unaffected.

In my experience, yes, somewhat uneven pad wear is normal in a sliding caliper setup.
Especially if the pins are neglected and get sticky.

 

Thanks again man. I am probably just replacing the one caliper for now. Still undecided if I will order the slider bracket. The other one at least was in "normal" range and I remembered them wearing in unevenly before so replacing it probably wont change anything.

 

Rebuilding calipers is easy. Do the rears screw in on the FC? I haven't had to change my pads yet, but if they do it could be a little more tricky on the rebuild.

 

Yes the rears screw in, you need the cube adapter.

 

I've used so many different whatever I could find that works to screw in the rear piston I can't remember them all. No need for special tools if you're on the cheap.