I didn't find much info on how to install these when I was looking and there seems to be a lot of misinformation about what else works and whether you need to keep the stock DTSS bushings or not. I had some success installing these so I thought some others might like a run-through of my solution. The process is pretty simple but it was a big pain in the *** to get the hub on.
I don't have any experience on the track with these yet, nor any real driving on them.

Firstly, this is the kit:
Whiteline KCA379 Control arm - upper outer bushing (camber correction)

It is a great idea I suppose, but the kit had some fitment issues for me.

**NOTE**: I don't know if this is how Whiteline would tell you to install these, and I couldn't find any threads or info online anywhere that explained how to install these, so I made it work. And yes this solution did work for me - the hubs bolt on just fine. I don't foresee any issues. I'm using these with Racing Beat DTSS eliminators and stock lower pillow *****. It took a while to align the 3 points of the hub but that was no fault of the geometry. When the eccentric bushing is aligned the way I have it, it fits. I can't speak to whether having it set for negative camber will fit as easily.

The yellow polyurethane inserts were too long and butt up against each other in the trailing arm.


So I trimmed down the inside edge a touch


and then they sit flush. Good start.


Then the metal eccentric bushing gets tapped/pressed in with your desired camber settings. I want to get some positive camber out of these to account for me lowering the car and to take some of the camber adjustment away from that rear subframe adjuster, so they face towards the outside of the car.
I started it with a brass hammer and finished it off with some tongue and groove pliers to slowly squeeze it in. The pliers were needed because as you tap it in from one side the yellow insert on the other side starts to pop out, so you have to compensate with the pliers. You'll see what I mean if you ever do this.


And here is my issue. In this picture the eccentric bushing is more or less flush with the yellow inserts so the hub doesn't fit over. The sleeve in the hub arm sticks out and I don't have a torch to heat up the hub and tap it loose. You still need that sleeve in there, or else the bolt will just float in that opening. I sure as hell am not going to hammer that out with the hub being aluminum, so I found it would be easiest to grind it flush and see where that got me.


So first thing's first; I taped up the opening to the bearing since the last thing you want is a ton of metal dust flying in and clogging up your nice grease in there.


Then set your Dremel to "hurry the eff up" mode and grind away.


And after some patience you have it flush.


This is the oem plastic washer that normally goes over that sleeve that sticks out, which is fine if you were replacing the OEM bushing with OEM. Not needed for this Whiteline bushing though.


And as you can see by my freshly hammered hub (yes, I used a brass hammer) it's still a pain in the *** to get on. I'm going to guess that having this extremely snug fit is better than removing material from the hub, though, since you don't want that eccentric bushing rotating and throwing off your camber mid-corner. Also, if you don't get the alignment of the eccentric bushing close enough to the right position the first time, I found it was necessary to take the hub off, tap out the bushing, reposition it, and then repeat the above steps until the DTSS bolt goes in smoothly, and the bottom of the hub lines up nice as well. It took me a few tries the first time.


And voila, I have a nice new-ish rear suspension!



To adjust these, I don't think it's possible to simple loosen the bolt and push or pull the hub inwards or outwards - at least, that seems like it wouldn't be a good thing. I found to change the position I had to tap out the metal bushing and start from the beginning.

Good Luck

 

That thing you ground down is just a compression bushing that sets in the spindle assembly.
It actually can get pushed back out towards the outside of the assembly so that the whole spindle can slide back onto the car.
it keeps the area nice and snug when you put the bolt in.
It is like the compression bushing on the air pump.

 

any idea what your camber was before and after?

 

Ttt in for info too? B4 and after pics?

 

The car isn't back on it's own feet yet so I can give you guys numbers when I get a good alignment done. I now have Ground Control adjustable springs so I can go a lot lower.
I have a build thread that goes into why I started all this suspension work in the first place. https://www.rx7club.com/canadian-for...thread-959424/ (one of the last posts on page 1)
I run FD wheels with spacers and the camber on one side of the rear was noticeably more negative than the other. I had it lowered on used Racing Beat convertible springs, which is a .5" drop, so not much. Yet to get the one side of the rear to a reasonable camber setting I had to max out the subframe camber adjuster. This led to the tops of the lateral links hitting the body of the car. The other side had noticeably more camber for some reason, so I just decided to take the entire underside apart and put in Prothane or Mazdaspeed bushings everywhere. I don't remember any of the numbers from my alignment at this point but I think I remember .7 or .8 degrees difference between the two. Nothing was noticeably bent or installed wrong in the rear, so no idea what was going on.

TL;DR Camber was messed up before, I'll get numbers on my camber once it's done.

 

I know it's supposed to come out, since it shows it separate in the parts catalogue, but I couldn't get it out and I didn't feel like hammering on that 20 year old aluminum arm to get it out. I could've tried tightening a bolt through it I suppose.
Even if you did get it loose, you'd need a longer bolt if you were to slide that sleeve over more.

 

rather than modifying the steel sleeve through the knuckle it is easy to install the original bolt through the opposite side of the arm, put the nut on by a few threads and tap the bolt with a hammer lightly to press the sleeve back out.

chopping it removes the throw, so a stock bushing won't ever work again.

 

BINGO..was gonna suggest the bolt through with the nut trick.
I found that out after sitting in the driveway all pissed off looking at the damn assemblies for an hour...(why won't it go back IN?..dammit?..lol!).
I tell ya,Once you "know" that Bushing is There,it makes the Rear assembly removal CAKE to take off,then put back on again!

 

the FD is even worse with their pillow ***** all over the rear suspension, they just flip and get cocked sideways so after you learn the trick you will use it almost every time you work with the suspension, smog pump, alternator, etc.

but i was scratching my head about how you go about adjusting the pivot, IMO they should provide new bolts which are staked to grab the pivot and turn it without the necessity of prying on the knuckle and through lots of trial and error. i also worry about it slipping, the only spot that actually has any grab to keep it stationary is on the outside nut.

 

Neat trick, thanks RE.

 

well i see it is knurled also, so that will help keep it from slipping.

 

Thread revival............how much camber was taken out after doing this mod?

 

Haven't done an alignment yet... in fact the car isn't even on the road yet. The website says + or - 1.5* depending on which way you install it. I've replaced every single bushing in the rear so it will be hard to say what these have done to my camber, alone.

 

I got the before numbers for my alignment and will be installing these inserts this week. Will post new alignment numbers this weekend.

 

Prior to Install:

Camber R: -2.7
Camber L: -2.8

After Install:

Camber R: -1.5
Camber L: -1.5

Not bad for 4 hours worth of work installing these.

 

that is pretty legit...I did the solid aluminum risers by pbm and their complete aluminum bushing setup as well and that took out some - camber for sure...if I do the whiteline I may even end up at -0.5 or 0.