Well, I did what everybody was saying...I smacked out my s5 CAS out of my s5 motor and I plugged it into my S4 loom...I grounded the trailing 1 plug on the strut tower and rotated the bottom gear...now I get good spark on the tower...but it wont spark turning the car over so now I know its a huge voltage drain. I checked the voltage at the leading coil and its INSANELY LOW its like 0.3 or 0.5 AC and I get the same result on DC.. Forgive my stupidity but cars are Alt Current right because they have fuses etc right?

Anyways...I tried unplugging the MAF and checking the voltage to the leading coil..its just going crazy it like never stops.. I tried unplugging the Solenoid Resistor Pack but I don't remember if I checked. Now, I've narrowed it down...the ECU is letting the CAS spark so its gotta be grounded properly..I just have a mad voltage drain. Should I try pulling out fuses that I dont need for starting to see if she'll spark n run? Or what should I do now?

 

is this a S4-S5 swap?
did you go under the dash and run the 4 wires for the S4 crank position sensor in the S4 chassis harness and put the red and blue wire together and connect it to the 3H pin, green to the 3G pin, white to 3E pin on the S5 #3 ECU plug
if you did all that just check all your splices make sure they arent shorting out

 

It's almost all DC voltage. Pull the small, two socket, white connector off the LEAD coil assy. KEY to ON. See what the voltage is on the black/Yellow wire. Should be batt voltage. Do NOT mess with that other wire in that connecto.

Both Tail and Lead coils get their power off the same wire FYI.

Ignore the Trail coil assy and concentrate on the LEAD assy and wires. The Trail does little for starting or much of anything else imho.

 

I didn't do anything to the engine...I am supposed to be trading for this car..I got it off a guy who buys shitloads of cars...he bought hte car from some people in Alberta..they had the car. It had high milage so they swapped in a lower milage motor and couldnt get it started. I diagnosed it, found out there was no fuel...replaced the fuel pump fixed that. And I've been doing everything to get it to spark.

Umm I checked both sides of that 2 prong thing...and I got like really really low voltage on both sides.

 

.http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/demystifying.html

 

Check the AFM

 

UPDATE: Now, I was checking for spark by rotating the CAS gear WITH the solenoid resistor pack unplugged. I did the same thing with my s4 CAS that was in the car...and it didn't spark..only with the s5 CAS. So that means my s4 one was bad. Now, it sparks with everything together and with the solenoid resistor pack unplugged. It will not spark with it plugged in. Now, the injectors aren't firing we checked them with a stethoscope I can't hear any clicking. I think just because the car has been sitting for so long and it hasn't ran in absolutely forever they're probably stuck. My hood latch was stuck, took awile to get it open, hatch latch wont open unless you force from the inside, passenger door wont open, CAS was frozen and calcinated in my engine, oh and both headlight motors are seized...one was even drawing power from the battery so we unplugged it.

SO more than likely the injectors are froze up..but yes now it sparks now, now the injectors wont fire. What does the Solenoid Resistor Pack do? Why won't it spark with it plugged in?

 

.

 

OH ****, so my solenoid resistor pack is bad...now I know what that does. So, my car won't spark with it connected...so I replace it?

 

Sorry, I've always been sceptical about the solenoid resistor package being a bad actor. I was just pointing out that the injectors get fed 12vdc from that package thru four 6 ohm resistors.

It's easy to check it out. Remove it from the car. Put the meter on ohms. One lead to the contact in the plug that is all by itself (it's in the middle), and then the other meter lead to each of the other pins in turn. Each should read approx 6 ohms.

Anyway, no matter if I'm right/wrong. Try what the fellow above (infaltabledolls) said. Reconnect the solenoid resistor package and then unplug the afm's plug. Then look for spark once more. By the way, the engine should be able to Start up momentarily with the afm fully disconnected. Won't run more than a couple of seconds, but should start up.

 

I did that before, the AFM is fine. It won't spark with the SRP connected. I can rig one up myself, but Id rather just buy another.

Well, yeah I'll check it out...but I think its shorting and changin the car to positive and not lettin it spark.