No spark... NEED HELP
07-26-10, 11:59 AM
#51
When the car has been shut off for a period of time I thought there would be no fuel between the fuel filter and the pressure regulator so at first crank there would be a small void of time before the regulator would be able to affect the pressure within the system. Just asking that's all. And the real reason I ask is because many report a higher fuel pressure than normal idling conditions upon cranking and I guess it's due to their not teeing the pressure gauge properly.
07-26-10, 12:08 PM
#52
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LAST thing to get fuel before the fuel runs back to the fuel tank is............the FPR. I'd check the routing of the fuel lines before I bought a new FPR.
You should hear fuel passing continuously thru the fuel rails and going back to the tank if the fuel pump check connector is jumpered with key to ON.
Seems somewhere in a post above you mentioned hearing fuel flow in the rails.......................which makes my idea of misrouting of the fuel lines on the engine.....wrong.
Just FYI.....with empty fuel rails it takes less than two seconds for the fuel pump to pressurize the fuel rails once the pump is activated. Been there, seen that too many times. Guaranteed less than two seconds.
07-26-10, 03:05 PM
#53
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If I'm understanding your question correctly, well the primary injectors are the ones that are more easily accessible and the secondaries are hidden under the UIM. If the leading coil is firing on both plugs that should be sufficient to start the car. There is a method using an LED light that will assist you in telling if the injector is firing properly or not and if you need this info then just ask. This test requires access to the ECU though.
Well your 60 psi is close to the head pressure of the fuel pump with no tee. Which makes one start to think..............maybe you have your fuel lines routed wrong on the engine OR?
LAST thing to get fuel before the fuel runs back to the fuel tank is............the FPR. I'd check the routing of the fuel lines before I bought a new FPR.
You should hear fuel passing continuously thru the fuel rails and going back to the tank if the fuel pump check connector is jumpered with key to ON.
Seems somewhere in a post above you mentioned hearing fuel flow in the rails.......................which makes my idea of misrouting of the fuel lines on the engine.....wrong.
Just FYI.....with empty fuel rails it takes less than two seconds for the fuel pump to pressurize the fuel rails once the pump is activated. Been there, seen that too many times. Guaranteed less than two seconds.
LAST thing to get fuel before the fuel runs back to the fuel tank is............the FPR. I'd check the routing of the fuel lines before I bought a new FPR.
You should hear fuel passing continuously thru the fuel rails and going back to the tank if the fuel pump check connector is jumpered with key to ON.
Seems somewhere in a post above you mentioned hearing fuel flow in the rails.......................which makes my idea of misrouting of the fuel lines on the engine.....wrong.
Just FYI.....with empty fuel rails it takes less than two seconds for the fuel pump to pressurize the fuel rails once the pump is activated. Been there, seen that too many times. Guaranteed less than two seconds.
07-26-10, 07:04 PM
#54
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Ok just to scratch this off the list, I pulled the EGI fuse cranked the engine WOT to clear any fuel in there, and I even pulled the plugs with thhe fuel pump disconnected so no extra fuel went in and got all the fuel out of the engine. I put it all back together and still no start. I still have spark and fuel but no start. Not even a poof...
07-26-10, 07:21 PM
#55
Have you tried spraying starter fluid into the intake duct w/the fuel pump disconnected and given it a shot at starting? If this process got the engine to at least to start briefly then that would lead you to the fuel side of the equation as the problem. Checking the viability of the Water thermosensor might be prudent here.
07-26-10, 07:48 PM
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Have you tried spraying starter fluid into the intake duct w/the fuel pump disconnected and given it a shot at starting? If this process got the engine to at least to start briefly then that would lead you to the fuel side of the equation as the problem. Checking the viability of the Water thermosensor might be prudent here.
07-26-10, 08:01 PM
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Yeah ATF leaves a crazy coating on stuff when it burns. A lot of people pour it on their new tubular turbo manifolds. Smokes and smells but looks cool after. How much oil should be put into each housing?? And there are two ports on the intake manifold under the secondary fuel rail, is that where I can put oil in?
07-26-10, 08:06 PM
#59
Yeah ATF leaves a crazy coating on stuff when it burns. A lot of people pour it on their new tubular turbo manifolds. Smokes and smells but looks cool after. How much oil should be put into each housing?? And there are two ports on the intake manifold under the secondary fuel rail, is that where I can put oil in?
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ow+compression
07-27-10, 01:02 AM
#62
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Injector pulse
Just been reading this and i am a lil confused?? Did we discover if you have primary injector pulse???
If not this is a pretty straight forward way of discovering.
1. remove spark fuse
2. remove upper intake manifold
3. remove cas
4. turn key to on position
5. spin the cas gear and the primary injectors will pulse(distinctive click)
If someones unplugged the injectors, they may have plugged them in wrong like i once did lol. any how i found when i did this my primary and secondary ROTOR No.1 injectors pulsed and car refused to start, i changed in all round and bang started first pop.
Hopefully im helping not hindering.
Now my second question is im having similar problems as stated in this thread. but mine is a little different. i get trailing spark but no leading spark. can anyone help me out??
If not this is a pretty straight forward way of discovering.
1. remove spark fuse
2. remove upper intake manifold
3. remove cas
4. turn key to on position
5. spin the cas gear and the primary injectors will pulse(distinctive click)
If someones unplugged the injectors, they may have plugged them in wrong like i once did lol. any how i found when i did this my primary and secondary ROTOR No.1 injectors pulsed and car refused to start, i changed in all round and bang started first pop.
Hopefully im helping not hindering.
Now my second question is im having similar problems as stated in this thread. but mine is a little different. i get trailing spark but no leading spark. can anyone help me out??
07-27-10, 05:00 AM
#63
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The LEAD coil assy has a small two wire plug that goes to it. Pull it apart.
One wire is black/yellow. With key ON it should have batt voltage. Yours has?????
The other wire is Blue\Yellow. That wire is what triggers the ignitor to fire the coil. That wire will have a coming and going voltage on it. The voltage will rise to five volts dc from zero volts dc over and over and over as the front pulley is turned by hand. And your blue/yellow reads?????? when the front pulley is turned over by hand.
And everybody knows by now that the ignitors for lead and trail get the ground for their internal circuitry thru the body of the ignitor/coil assy making contact with the chassis. You have four fasteners holding the lead coil assy to the chassis. Even if only one is holding the assy down the thing would work. But there has to be no paint b/t the chassis and the coil assy.
If you have the batt voltage on the black/yellow and the coming and going of the five volts dc on the other as the pulley is turned.....and the coil assy is held down with at least one fastener on a clean bare surface.........I've no idea why the leads don't fire. I'd suggest pulling the trail sparkplug wires off and starting the car. IF it runs...........the lead coil is indeed working and a mistake has been made.
One wire is black/yellow. With key ON it should have batt voltage. Yours has?????
The other wire is Blue\Yellow. That wire is what triggers the ignitor to fire the coil. That wire will have a coming and going voltage on it. The voltage will rise to five volts dc from zero volts dc over and over and over as the front pulley is turned by hand. And your blue/yellow reads?????? when the front pulley is turned over by hand.
And everybody knows by now that the ignitors for lead and trail get the ground for their internal circuitry thru the body of the ignitor/coil assy making contact with the chassis. You have four fasteners holding the lead coil assy to the chassis. Even if only one is holding the assy down the thing would work. But there has to be no paint b/t the chassis and the coil assy.
If you have the batt voltage on the black/yellow and the coming and going of the five volts dc on the other as the pulley is turned.....and the coil assy is held down with at least one fastener on a clean bare surface.........I've no idea why the leads don't fire. I'd suggest pulling the trail sparkplug wires off and starting the car. IF it runs...........the lead coil is indeed working and a mistake has been made.
07-28-10, 08:29 PM
#64
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Sorry been a long few days haven't had time to mess with the Seven. Today I tried the free flood method again (plugs out crank and fuse out a different time) then I proceeded to put 1 ounce of 20w 50 motor oil in each housing through the intake ports (two little black nips on intake runners) put fuse back in and everything still getting spark and what not, cranked the engine and what looked like to have happen was the oil was actually burning in the engine because white smoke was coming from the exhaust.... my final conclusion to this demon car is possible low compression. But even then I would still think it would make a combustion sound which it does not sound like it is doing at all which leaves me completely stumped
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