satch

iTrader: (1)

If I'm understanding your question correctly, well the primary injectors are the ones that are more easily accessible and the secondaries are hidden under the UIM. If the leading coil is firing on both plugs that should be sufficient to start the car. There is a method using an LED light that will assist you in telling if the injector is firing properly or not and if you need this info then just ask. This test requires access to the ECU though.

Boostedmister2

Ok I figured out how the injectors work which is how I thought they did. Snd testing the secondary injectors while cranking is no good because they don't pulse at low rpms anyway. Is there any easy way to get to the primary injectors or to check for pulse because I don't even see the primary injectors...

Boostedmister2

Hmmm I have an engine diargram and it looks like the secondary injectors are more accessable and the primary are under the UIM. I would like to know tthe test procedure if you don't mind. I have a few LED bulbs I can use maybe or a 194 buld for dome lights..

satch

iTrader: (1)

I apologize for getting the location of the injectors reversed but its been a long day. At least that is my excuse. But to answer your question in an accurate manner if you have an LED light then at the ECU look at the smallest plug. The plug will have an LG wire which is the front primary and the LG/B wire is the rear primary injector. Both should have battery voltage w/key to on. When the ECU fires the injector the voltage drops to a ground signal but the speed at which it does will not show up accurately when using a voltmeter. If you use the LED light then the positive wire lead would go to pin 3I which is the Main relay pin and you use this pin for it will have voltage on it w/key to on (time for a chuckle). Then the negative lead of the LED wire goes to either of the injector wires noted previously (either pin 3E which is LG or 3C which is LG/B) and with the car starting the light ought to flash repeatedly. If you want to use a voltmeter instead then you connect the meter leads much in the same way as the LED light but as you start the car the meter will likely only drop to 8 volts or so if I remember correctly. To differentiate what wire lead is positive on the LED if used, you would take the light to the battery and put one wire to the positive and the other to the ground and if it lights up you know which is which, if it doesn't light up then the wire at the positive battery post must be the negative wire. Again, I apologize for the earlier goof.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Okay, okay you don't have to rub it in!

Boostedmister2

When cranking I can smell gas. Its a year old gas about 1/8 tank. Also when I jumper the check connector for the fuel pump the pump continues to run and a hissing of fuel flow noise is kind of loud in the engine compartment but there isn't any leaks. I pulled a plug and cranked it and very little gas mists out, like very little so noww I'm thinking a have low fuel pressure??

satch

iTrader: (1)

Pulling gas from the bottom of the barrel is not a good idea. You could clog up the fuel sock in the gas tank and the fuel filter as well. You need to add more gas and or the crap to revitalize the gas already in the tank.

EDIT: Are you familiar with the pulsation dampener? It's located at the front of the primary rail and is a sight for fuel leaks to present themselves.

Boostedmister2

Haha not trying to rub it in just trying to make sure I got the injectors right. And when checking with the LED do I unplug the connector to the ecu or how do I Connect the LED to the ecu?

Boostedmister2

I will add better gas tomorrow and not exactly fully familiar with the dampner.. I know where it is but what it exactly does I'm not sure. And I let the pump run and looked around in the engine for leaks and I didn't see a drop.. I can smell it coming from the exhaust but it is by far the worst smelling gas I've ever smelt haha.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Very good question. You would have to leave the small plug connected so the ECU can fire the primary injectors you want to test. To connect the LED wires you would stab/back probe them into the respective places. There will be sufficient space alongside each of the wires to do this.

satch

iTrader: (1)

It's supposed to soften the pulsations/reverberations created within the fuel system when the injectors fire so as not to damage the components.

Boostedmister2

Yeah I kinda figured the plug needed to stay plugged in but just thought id double check haha. And the dampner does exactly what I had thought it does ha. But why do you ask if I'm familiar with it? Is that the noise I'm hearing in the engine compartment when the pump is running?

satch

iTrader: (1)

With the passage of time they are notorious for leaking and I thought this was one item you would want to look at. Not really sure of the sound associated with this type of leak but generally the leak would be in the form of drops. Just a visual glance would tell you if it were leaking.

Boostedmister2

Well in that case it is not leaking haha. And the noise kind of sounds like a flowing noise. It might just be the gas flowing through the rail or somehing. I will look more into tomorrow and also try to check fuel pressure. Anything else I should maybe check for cause of little fuel spray? Other than the obvious pressure and clogged fuel filter if it is clogged

satch

iTrader: (1)

Not really other than the respective hoses and fuel pressure regulator.

Boostedmister2

Well I didn't check fuel pressure yet because I need to go buy a fuel pressure gauge, but I did check the flow of the return line and seems to be a bit much. But that also could be because the engine isn't running therefore injectors are spraying the gas so it all comes back to the tank?? But I thought the regulator should hold pressure at the rail and if so I would think that much fuel should not be returning back to the tank

satch

iTrader: (1)

I know very little about fuel other than to not light up when nearby, but the pressure at startup cranking is usually about twice that of idling.

Boostedmister2

Haha well I don't smoke so I'm good there. I got a pressure tester and some factory psi numbers to check so ill compare mine and see if something is wrong in the system. I work on high end european cars. For a living, and I can't figure out my 7 problem lol ugh

Boostedmister2

I checked pressures and I'm getting almost 60psi of fuel. The reggulator I believe is shot haha. Its only supposed to be 34-39psi and same at idle

satch

iTrader: (1)

Where in line did you place the pressure tester?

Boostedmister2

I may have done it in the wrong place. Over by the oil filler cap and oil filter where the fuel feed and return hoses are right next to each other..

HAILERS

Did you tee your fuel pressue gauge into the fuel pressue line or just pull the pressure line off the engine and install the gauge on the pressure line. It sounds like that is what you did.

You need to buy or make a TEE so the fuel will still flow to the fuel rails and you will pick off the pressure at the tee with the guage.

Idle with all vacuum lines connected to the FPR will be approx 28-32 psi, not 37-39 psi.

Boostedmister2

Yeah I made a tee off the feed line and that is what the pressure was. Just cutting off the line without a tee is to check pump pressure. I think the regulator is bad

satch

iTrader: (1)

I was wondering if you could educate me on something? When you conducted your fuel pressure test and you first cranked the engine, what prevents the fuel pressure from spiking above the service manual numbers?

Boostedmister2

Fuel pressure regulator I believe.. is that a trick question?