Boostedmister2

I've got an 88 na rx7 that sat for a year in the guys driveway I bought it from. It had a bad fuel pump so I replaced it. Now I'm not getting spark. Bought some coils and the igniters from a local junk yard from an 87 na with like 80k miles on it. I got spark one time when the fuel pump wasn't in yet and now I'm not getting spark anymore. I'm getting power to the coils and the primary coil resistance is in specs.. ANYONE KNOW WHAT COULD BE WRONG?? Engine cranks great and fuel is pumping, but no spark.. need help. Thanks

satch

iTrader: (1)

So you're getting battery voltage on the B/Y wire with the key to on. If so then check for voltage w/key to on at any of the emission solenoids when probing the Black/White wire as it should have battery voltage as well. Also with w/key to on manually turn the main pulley while checking for voltage on the Green/Yellow wire at the leading coil as the voltage should go from 0 volts to 5 volts briefly and then back to 0 volts. The ECU sends the coil a firing signal on this G/Y wire so it is necessary to see it go from zero to five. Also, make sure the coil is properly bolted to the fender for the igniter willl not work unless it is grounded properly.

Boostedmister2

Thanks, I will go check that now. And what. Black/white wire are you talking about?

Also does anyone have a color picture of the fuel pump connector? I think mine has been switched around by the previous owner and my wires are messed up. Or can you telling me what wire color from chassis goes to the fuel pump?

satch

iTrader: (1)

If you still have the emission solenoids (there are at least 4 of them) they each have a B/W wire running to each of them.

The BAC, Boost Sensor and Air Bypass also have this B/W wire.

satch

iTrader: (1)

If you're referring to the rear harness which connects to the fuel pump harness then the wire colors are as follows. Black=ground, Blue=voltage to run pump, W/G is for the fuel gauge and W/R is for the low fuel light in the dash idiot cluster.

Boostedmister2

My wires are like this, rear harness to pump harnes: blue-blue, b/g-b/w, b-b, and w/g-r... sound right? With check connector jumpered the pump kicks on and fuel gauge works so I'm assuming it is correct??

Boostedmister2

I'm only getting 2.30 volts at the bac and boost sensor and all others. Battery voltage is 12.5. What's the reason for this? Key is on with those voltage readings

satch

iTrader: (1)

Not sure about the pump harness side but if the gauge works then it appears to be right.

slitherz90gxl

I'm just tossing this out there.
On my 90 s5 I did everything possible to get it started up and still couldn't get a spark.
I forgot to check the 15A engine fuse. Might want to check it if you hadn't already.
Mine kept blowing when I drove because my fuel pump relay was fried.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Check the 30 amp EGI Comp fuse in the engine fuse box. If that is good then make sure the White/Blue (W/L) wire at this fuse box has battery voltage, no key necessary for it is a constant voltage wire. This W/L wire goes to the Main Relay and w/key to on the voltage from this wire is supposed to be passed onto the B/W wire which is the wire I spoke of. It eventually leads to the ECU to power it up. If the B/Y wire does indeed have battery voltage at the leading coil w/key to on then this proves the Main Relay is working at least from the B/Y perspective.

Boostedmister2

Engine fuse is good. Getting 12.5 volts to leading coil BUT I am not getting anything but .3 volts at this W/L wire at the engine fuse box. I unplugged the connector to check the voltage, is that what I should have done?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Engine fuse (15 amps) is in the interior fuse box and not the engine fuse box. I'm talking about the 30 amp EGI Comp fuse in the engine bay fuse box. If this fuse is not good then the W/L wire would not have proper voltage. If the fuse that I want you to focus on is good then the W/L wire at the fuse box is not making a good connection there and needs to be addressed.

EDIT: W/fuse in place jiggle the W/L wire and see if this helps.

Boostedmister2

Sorry I knew what 30a fuse you were talking about I was telling the guy who posted right before you that my engine fuse was good. All my fuses are good, I will have to try the wiggle trick haha. And is the 30A fuse what feeds the W/L wire power?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Yes. There is a Black wire that goes from the battery to the fuse box and supplies the box with voltage so the B/G wire is where the B/Y gets its battery voltage from. Also, if the headlights turn on and pop up then this again validates that the Black wire has to be suplying voltage to the engine fuse box for it requires two wires from the same fuse box to have voltage on it for them to work. The metal part of the fuse box that holds the EGI comp fuse (I think they are referred to as tangs) may be defective or not receiving power properly and this would explain your dilemma.

Boostedmister2

Ok. Headlights work, turn signals all work, getting full battery power at coils but at the boost sensor and bac I'm only getting 2.3 volts... what would cause that? The possible messed up tangs?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The turn signals are a different animal then the headlights and uses different wiring, but there is something amiss w/ your fuse box. Just a thought, but if your car is not equipped w/ABS then there should be a space open in the fuse box so check its tangs for voltage and it should be present . If so you could move the W/L wire to that spot if need be along with its 30 amp fuse.

Boostedmister2

So technically if I took battery voltage straight to the W/L and B/G wires of that connector it should work??

Boostedmister2

Ok so I fed the W/L wire straight battery power and still I'm only getting 2.3 volts at all the sensors.. is there something in the system that regulates voltage to these sensors and solenoids??

satch

iTrader: (1)

If B/Y has battery voltage w/key to on that means the B/G wire already has constant voltage on it so it doesn't need to be dealt with. The W/L wire is a different story. You could provide battery voltage to W/L directly and bypass the fuse which could be problematic or you could jumper a wire at the Main Relay from B/G which has constant voltage to W/L to achieve your goal. Turn the relay upside down and there will be a four wire plug that has the W/L and B/G wires in addition to a couple of others, namely B/W and B/Y.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Key would have to be on. Is it?

Boostedmister2

Yeah key on only getting 2.3 volts. But still getting full battery power at coils. I'm lost on what it could be

satch

iTrader: (1)

You need to place focus on the Main Relay. Check the wires underneath such as B/W wire that is part of the four wire plug and there is also a two wire plug that has a Black ground wire and see if it is grounded connected to a plastic plug which is then connected to a metal connector fastened to the body near and under the trailing coil although it should be good since the B/Y wire has proper voltage. Another thing is to do a continuity test on the relay. The four wire plug should have an additional plug tied to the same group of wires and should be round in shape. Take this round plug and put a ground to one terminal in the round plug and voltage from the battery to the other terminal in the plug and then check for continuity between terminals 1&2 and then 3&4. There is a plastic nub on one of the sides of the four wire plug and this nub should be positioned on top. When positioned as such terminal #1 is top right,#2 is lower right, #3 is top left and #4 is lower left.

Boostedmister2

Ugh thank you. This is the third time this month I've had the thought process in my mind,"if the relay clicks it works" well not true. The main relay is bad and I now have spark. Still no start but it could be due to over a year old gas and I need to check plugs also. Thank you so much. I will keep you posted on if I can get it running. Know where I can get a new main relay??

satch

iTrader: (1)

The main relay has two relays within it so if one set of contacts closes then it would make a clicking sound but it doesn't mean the second relay is working. Did you come to the conclusion that the main relay was bad from the continuity test or something else?

Did you say you are now getting spark? So you now must have voltage on the B/W wire and did you jumper some voltage to that wire? And I'm assuming the W/L wire is still basically dead as a door nail.

You could post a want to buy (WTB) thread in the parts for sale section to find a relay.

Boostedmister2

I jumpered both switches and I now have power like I should as if the main relay were working properly. And yes the continuity test showed that there was an open switch in the relay, W/L and B/W wire switch I believe. But with the relay bypassed with jumpers I get spark. But now I check for fuel injector noid and I'm not getting fuel injector pulse? Are the secondary injectors the red ones mounted higher on the intake runners? And do they come on at a different times than the primaries? That is one think I've never became clear on the dual injectors per rotor...