No digital clock
11-28-11, 10:39 PM
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No digital clock
Let me keep this simple.
I turned the car on one morning and... no clock, just a blank screen. Absolutely no clue what could have provoked it.
All the other warning lights work fine, no other elections problems to report.
Has the clock just given up or should I look into some fuses/wiring?
I turned the car on one morning and... no clock, just a blank screen. Absolutely no clue what could have provoked it.
All the other warning lights work fine, no other elections problems to report.
Has the clock just given up or should I look into some fuses/wiring?
11-29-11, 05:37 PM
#5
First thing you ALWAYS check when a fused electrical circuit isn't working.. THE FUSE 
If the fuse is good, go ahead and take the clock out and check for bad solder joints internally. If that is the problem, it is a pretty straight forward fix.:
Cold Solder points fix for the Clock/Idiot light
Start by placing the blade of a flathead screwdriver under the front lip of the plastic trim piece that is in front of the clock/idiot light unit. Pry it up and you will see two screws that hold the assembly in place, one on each side of the unit. Remove these screws and pull the clock unit out. The wires are tight but some slack can be pulled out from the inside of the dash. Unhook the clock/idiot light module. Remove a few screws from the back of the unit and carefully check and resolder all the solder connections on the socket for the plug. Resolder other stuff if you are feeling adventurous. Installation consists of plugging the unit back into the wiring harness, screwing it back in, and snapping the trim piece back over the unit. It is short and sweet. One important note, if you decide to resolder ALL of the solder points in the unit, be careful, there are a number of delicate components that can be killed with great ease by overheating, especially under that little black plastic thing.
If the fuse is good, go ahead and take the clock out and check for bad solder joints internally. If that is the problem, it is a pretty straight forward fix.:
Cold Solder points fix for the Clock/Idiot light
Start by placing the blade of a flathead screwdriver under the front lip of the plastic trim piece that is in front of the clock/idiot light unit. Pry it up and you will see two screws that hold the assembly in place, one on each side of the unit. Remove these screws and pull the clock unit out. The wires are tight but some slack can be pulled out from the inside of the dash. Unhook the clock/idiot light module. Remove a few screws from the back of the unit and carefully check and resolder all the solder connections on the socket for the plug. Resolder other stuff if you are feeling adventurous. Installation consists of plugging the unit back into the wiring harness, screwing it back in, and snapping the trim piece back over the unit. It is short and sweet. One important note, if you decide to resolder ALL of the solder points in the unit, be careful, there are a number of delicate components that can be killed with great ease by overheating, especially under that little black plastic thing.
11-29-11, 06:56 PM
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Cold Solder points fix for the Clock/Idiot light
Start by placing the blade of a flathead screwdriver under the front lip of the plastic trim piece that is in front of the clock/idiot light unit. Pry it up and you will see two screws that hold the assembly in place, one on each side of the unit. Remove these screws and pull the clock unit out. The wires are tight but some slack can be pulled out from the inside of the dash. Unhook the clock/idiot light module. Remove a few screws from the back of the unit and carefully check and resolder all the solder connections on the socket for the plug. Resolder other stuff if you are feeling adventurous. Installation consists of plugging the unit back into the wiring harness, screwing it back in, and snapping the trim piece back over the unit. It is short and sweet. One important note, if you decide to resolder ALL of the solder points in the unit, be careful, there are a number of delicate components that can be killed with great ease by overheating, especially under that little black plastic thing.
Start by placing the blade of a flathead screwdriver under the front lip of the plastic trim piece that is in front of the clock/idiot light unit. Pry it up and you will see two screws that hold the assembly in place, one on each side of the unit. Remove these screws and pull the clock unit out. The wires are tight but some slack can be pulled out from the inside of the dash. Unhook the clock/idiot light module. Remove a few screws from the back of the unit and carefully check and resolder all the solder connections on the socket for the plug. Resolder other stuff if you are feeling adventurous. Installation consists of plugging the unit back into the wiring harness, screwing it back in, and snapping the trim piece back over the unit. It is short and sweet. One important note, if you decide to resolder ALL of the solder points in the unit, be careful, there are a number of delicate components that can be killed with great ease by overheating, especially under that little black plastic thing.
11-29-11, 09:08 PM
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Driving RX7's since 1979
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First thing you ALWAYS check when a fused electrical circuit isn't working.. THE FUSE
If the fuse is good, go ahead and take the clock out and check for bad solder joints internally. If that is the problem, it is a pretty straight forward fix.:
Cold Solder points fix for the Clock/Idiot light
1. Start by placing the blade of a flathead screwdriver under the front lip of the plastic trim piece that is in front of the clock/idiot light unit. Pry it up and you will see two screws that hold the assembly in place, one on each side of the unit. Remove these screws and pull the clock unit out.
2. The wires are tight but some slack can be pulled out from the inside of the dash. Unhook the clock/idiot light module.
3. Remove a few screws from the back of the unit and carefully check and resolder all* the solder connections on the socket for the plug. Resolder other stuff if you are feeling adventurous*.
4. Installation consists of plugging the unit back into the wiring harness, screwing it back in, and snapping the trim piece back over the unit. It is short and sweet.
5. One important note, if you decide to resolder ALL of the solder points in the unit, be careful, there are a number of delicate components that can be killed with great ease by overheating, especially under that little black plastic thing.
If the fuse is good, go ahead and take the clock out and check for bad solder joints internally. If that is the problem, it is a pretty straight forward fix.:
Cold Solder points fix for the Clock/Idiot light
1. Start by placing the blade of a flathead screwdriver under the front lip of the plastic trim piece that is in front of the clock/idiot light unit. Pry it up and you will see two screws that hold the assembly in place, one on each side of the unit. Remove these screws and pull the clock unit out.
2. The wires are tight but some slack can be pulled out from the inside of the dash. Unhook the clock/idiot light module.
3. Remove a few screws from the back of the unit and carefully check and resolder all* the solder connections on the socket for the plug. Resolder other stuff if you are feeling adventurous*.
4. Installation consists of plugging the unit back into the wiring harness, screwing it back in, and snapping the trim piece back over the unit. It is short and sweet.
5. One important note, if you decide to resolder ALL of the solder points in the unit, be careful, there are a number of delicate components that can be killed with great ease by overheating, especially under that little black plastic thing.
*Before you do anything, identify the two pins that provide hot/+ and ground/- from the online FSM. This is the only circuit you need to be concerned with. My opinion, don't mess with anything that is already working properly, aka "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". That way you don't have to worry about messing those things up in the process per funkjaw's warning.
Follow the circuit that runs from those two pins and melt/re-solder each solder bump connection point with a HOT soldering iron so you won't need to hold the iron to the solder point very long as funkjaw warned. Add additional solder as necessary to insure a good joint.
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11-30-11, 02:49 PM
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It seems the more common thing is a bad solder joint so I'll look into that soon.
11-30-11, 03:03 PM
#9
The first thing I did was look at the fuse box and didn't see anything that specifically related to the clock. The only thing that doesn't work is the clock and I figured a blown fuse would cause multiple problems. Am I wrong?
It seems the more common thing is a bad solder joint so I'll look into that soon.
It seems the more common thing is a bad solder joint so I'll look into that soon.
11-30-11, 05:51 PM
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i believ the same fuse runs the power mirrors, do they work? if not check the fuse
i need to re solder mine i have some dim lights that stay dimmly lit, anyone have a pic of what to exactley solder?
i need to re solder mine i have some dim lights that stay dimmly lit, anyone have a pic of what to exactley solder?
11-30-11, 06:15 PM
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So I replaced the Room fuse with Meter fuse (also 7.5 amp), and the same result.
So what does this tell me?
Last edited by zecc81; 11-30-11 at 06:17 PM.
11-30-11, 07:03 PM
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Driving RX7's since 1979
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A pic would be giving you the fish. To learn how to fish, I repeat:
*Before you do anything, identify the two pins that provide hot/+ and ground/- from the online FSM. This is the only circuit you need to be concerned with. My opinion, don't mess with anything that is already working properly, aka "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". That way you don't have to worry about messing those things up in the process per funkjaw's warning.
Follow the circuit that runs from those two pins and melt/re-solder each solder bump connection point with a HOT soldering iron so you won't need to hold the iron to the solder point very long as funkjaw warned. Add additional solder as necessary to insure a good joint. <!-- / message -->
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11-30-11, 07:08 PM
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Thank you
(my friend recently tried to run a gps off the cigar lighter, that must've been it, all makes sense now)
01-14-17, 11:52 PM
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Yes it is the start of the apocalypse.. Zombie threads can come alive and exist amongst the living...Mwuahhahhaa!..
If your car won't run OR if your cigarette Lighter won't work so you can light the wick on that can of gas to throw at the Zombie....Call RotaryEvolution!.
He can fix it with a combo Running car that shoots Fireballs!...lol!
*this concludes the Emergency Broadcast of Stupid material..we now go back to the Insanity of Rx7 Moderation..!
PS: time stands Still in an Rx7 so who the fark cares about a clock!
01-15-17, 12:16 AM
#24
lol, well the older first gen had quartz mechanical hand clocks, so his is probably either toast or has drag/slop in the gears. the later first gens had a digital quartz clock.
i couldn't tell ya if there is a fix for the mechanical version, except maybe with a hammer.
i couldn't tell ya if there is a fix for the mechanical version, except maybe with a hammer.
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