Need some advise from the gurus - I just did an engine swap when my existing motor blew a water seal. Now the car doesn't start, but cranks wonderfully - has spark on all four wires, not flooded, 12v to injectors. It just doesn't even try to start. There are a couple of connectors that I need some help identifying just in case that could be the problem.

Picture one and two are of a connector from the bottom of the engine - there are two sensors, this is the one on the right, from just in front of the motor mount. I can't find where it connects to.

Picture three and four are from inside the car, near the blower, which has been pulled down for a better view. There is a small connector in picture three, and the big connector from three and four - what do these connect to?

Also, any suggestions? I'm pretty sure I got the fuel lines back on in the right order, but everyone just says to "Make sure they're not backwards" without telling me which one goes where. Currently the one from the fuel filter connects to the port on the right. I've swapped them and it still doesn't start, so I went back to what I was pretty sure was right. This is my daily driver, so any help would be great!

 

probably low compression if everything else seems in order, try to push start ir or any of the various other low compression start up tricks.

 

Factory S4 security plug

 

gotcha, so not needed if there's no security system in the car. Well, back to square one.

 

what about the small two conductor plug coming from the bottom of the oilpan in the first 2 pictures - no chance of the computer telling the car not to start if that's unplugged, is there?

 

No, its for the oil pan oil level.

 

Alright - tell me if I'm wrong - but I've verified that the injectors are firing - so would that indicate that the computer is functioning normally? I've got 12v to the injectors with the key on, is there a good way to make sure they're firing?

 

get a stethoscope and try to listen to them with someone cranking the engine .

btw are you sure you have the CAS set correctly ??

 

Not sure other than that it came out of a car that ran and I haven't touched it, and it looks to be in roughly the same position as the one on my old engine that still started when I took it out. Other than that, no. I'll look up how to do that so I can be sure, but I couldn't find the yellow timing marks on the pulley - there's a white and green one on the very front of the front pulley, but they don't seem to correspond so much, but again, I didn't look at it too closely.

 

Is this a fresh rebuild? If so, who built it?

 

You could be getting power to your injectors but are you getting the ground signal? I had this problem with my turbo swap but was fixed when I ran new wire for the injectors.

 

I haven't checked the ground for the injectors - it's not a rebuild, it was pulled out of an RX7 that was rearended, so that it'll hopefully keep my daily-driver running for a few months while I rebuild the engine I already have. So I've been hoping to get it working so I don't feel rushed rebuilding mine.

 

Well finally got my dad to tow me today, and after about 2 miles, it finally got to where it would run on its own (as long as I kept the throttle to 3k-4k rpms) - then found out the used engine has a bad water filler neck, and began to blow steam everywhere. Now it still doesn't start on its own, but actually sounds like it's trying, so tomorrow I'll install a new fan and the water filler neck from my old engine, then probably try the atf trick and towstart again on Sunday. Once my cooling problem is squared away and I can run it for 15 or 20 minutes once I get it started like the mechanic said to, then I'll probably be square again. Thanks for the help and suggestions, guys! I just wanted to update everyone in case there's someone else reading along who has the same problem one day.