Hi Guys,

...the problem is that when I turn the key to Start position nothing happens; no ignition lights, no click from starter solenoid.
...thought that it might be the clutch interlock switch, but it tests ok.
...the battery is charged and the clamps are clean and tight.
...this problem used to be an intermittent occurrence, not very often.
...but now nothing.

...is there a way to test the ignition switch to see if its getting positive voltage to it?
...what would be the logical troubleshooting procedure?

87 FC,S4

 

Meter the wires. There's should be constant going in and acc/IGN out depending on the key position.

 

Thanks for the response.

Isn't there a way to test the ignition switch without having to remove the steering wheel, the instrument switch housing and the column covers??
My Haynes manual makes this a little confusing in that the instructions for removing the column cover it says to first remove the switch housing [pg. 260] ...and then for the instructions for removing the instrument switch housing it says to first remove the column cover. [pg. 277]
...does this mean it is possible to remove the column cover without removing the instrument cluster switch housing?
...but it would be great to just test the ignition switch without having to go through all that.

 

The plugs I posted are far enough down all you have to do is lean under and look up.

 

...thanks, I will give it a try.

 

...are these two connectors (blue ones)?

 

Those are the dash controls. Look for the one and 2 pin plugs I posted the picture of.

 

...these are the only 2 connectors that are there (shown pulled apart) and they both only conduct two wires each. My Rx7 is a 1987. Would that be the difference?

 

Those are the pedal switches. Find the set of wires running down the column. They will be much larger than the rest.

Take a pic from further back

 

Hi Spider2k,
...I had hurt my back so I gave it a break for a while but now am back on the job.
...I did the tests for continuity between the various points and several showed no continuity and so assumed the switch is bad and ordered a new one.
...but I am a little stumped on getting the part off that is attached to the lower part of the mechanical section of the switch.
...my question is how to remove the two small push-on fasteners that hold it.
...is it just a matter of forcing a sharp blade screw driver under and trying to pry them off?/
...I'm including a pic for clarity.

this is the part attached near the base of the ignition switch --that extends from the detachable electrical rear part of the switch along with the 4 connectors. Could not figure out how to remove the two fasteners. Most likely not difficult, but didn't want to destroy them by trying. Incidentally do you know the purpose of that little part?

 

While it's possible, it's a bitch. Just pry me off with a flathead. You can either buy replacements or cross thread a couple of coarse threaded nuts on to the posts.

 

Here
cSeao 150pcs 304 Stainless Steel Starlock Internal Tooth Push On Locking Washers Assortment Kit, M3/ M4/ M5/ M6/ M8/ M10/ M12

 

Thanks a bunch. I'll get some of those star lock washers rather than trying to 'jury-rig' the posts.

 

...I installed the new electrical part of the ignition switch and it started right up.
...But now when I turn the switch off the engine keeps running, and I have to pull the main fuse to stop it.
...What the Hej!!!
...any ideas as to why this is?

 

Hi Spider2k,
...I had hurt my back so I gave it a break for a while but now am back on the job.
...I did the tests for continuity between the various points and several showed no continuity and so assumed the switch is bad and ordered a new one.
...but I am a little stumped on getting the part off that is attached to the lower part of the mechanical section of the switch.
...my question is how to remove the two small push-on fasteners that hold it.
...is it just a matter of forcing a sharp blade screw driver under and trying to pry them off?/
...I'm including a pic for clarity.

this is the part attached near the base of the ignition switch --that extends from the detachable electrical rear part of the switch along with the 4 connectors. Could not figure out how to remove the two fasteners. Most likely not difficult, but didn't want to destroy them by trying.

 

...I installed the new electrical part of the ignition switch and it started right up.
...But now when I turn the switch off the engine keeps running, and I have to pull the main fuse to stop it.
...What the Hej!!!
...any ideas as to why this is?

 

Hi,

...I did the tests and with both old and new switches the ST to L connection did not have continuity in the start position as it shows it should in the chart that you provided.
...all the other connections checked out ok.
...anyway I installed the new electrical part of the ignition switch and it started right up.
...But now when I turn the switch off the engine keeps running, and I have to pull the main fuse to stop it.
...any ideas as to why this is?
...it doesn't make any sense.

 

Main relay sticking?

 

Update:
...the battery ran down to less than 2 volts; so something is causing current to flow with the key off.
...I put the charged battery back in and with the positive cable already connected when I touched the negative cable connector to the battery post the relay would click. ...repeated several times and same thing. ...relay clicked.
...wouldn't this mean that the relay was not stuck?
I started the engine and when I turned the key off the engine kept running.
I gave some knocks on the relay case with the handle of a big screwdriver but it kept running.
So I'm still in a conundrum...

 

...do you have an idea of what might be causing this problem that I explained here?:
Update:
...the battery ran down to less than 2 volts; so something is causing current to flow with the key off.
...I put the charged battery back in and with the positive cable already connected when I touched the negative cable connector to the battery post the relay would click. ...repeated several times and same thing. ...relay clicked.
...wouldn't this mean that the relay was not stuck?
I started the engine and when I turned the key off the engine kept running.
I gave some knocks on the relay case with the handle of a big screwdriver but it kept running.
So I'm still in a conundrum...