i have an 89 vert and have been aexperiencing this strange problem.

my cigarette lighter fuse keeps blowing (10a) when it blows it knocks out my clock, and my ac wont blow cold. when fuse is replaced everything is fine except the clock never mainains a particular brightness, it goes dim, then bright, then gone, then dim, etc. when i bought the car the fuse blew 2 days later, i replaced it and the fuse was good for 3 months when it blew the other day. so i replaced and it blew the next day. (my point is there is no consistency or regularity to it) it doesnt blow any particular time that i use any of the accessories connected to it.

im assuming the problem is rooted to the clock unit thingy. anyone else have this problem or even know how to fix it?

anyone fix their clock dimming?

please help its so annoying being in fla using the ac at 1 stop light then it blows hot air the next.

thx

bauer

 

The clocks are great for going bad, damn thing's flicker and screw up all the time, perhaps it's shorting out due to the horrible soldering mazda did.

 

The clock flicker is directly related to the idiot/warning light panel and cold solder joints on it.

You will need to re-solder the idiot light panel to fix it.

Remember when re-soldering you want to remove the existing solder, where the plug pins meet the circuit board with a solder sucker or braid.

Then melt in new solder on all the joints where the plug pins are attached to the circuit board being careful not to flow one into another or overheat the board.

 

so i take out the warning light module thing, disassemble to get to circuit board, and resolder the pins back to the circuit board?

im goin out to remove it right now and see if this doesnt help

thx for input

bauer

 

ok im staring at the warning light thingy circuit board and there are a lot of places to solder..which pins do i solder? most of the sloder points look good and silver but some look real shitty with a brownish looking goo around them. looks like someone spilled coke in those particular solder points, these are the ones to re-solder?

bauer

 

For know, why don't you solder at the plug connection Instead of all the other ones. Usually the Infamous solder joints are directly traced back to where the plug makes Its connection.

When I re-soldered my clock/warning light, I hate to call It an Idiot, I noticed at the plug connection their was a solder joint break. I re-soldered It and all symptoms, exactly like yours, dissapeared. I then took It apart and re-soldered every solder joint!

From this new found repair, was the first time I actually soldered anything, I re-soldered my ECU and CPU. I regained things I thought my FC never had. Like seatbelt warning, Headlight/Key buzzer, ket light etc.

Definetly a worth Investment If you have the patience to solder ALL the little tedious joints.

 

cool thx im about to solder the whole damn car soon...j/k my only other problem is that the factory alarm dont work so maybe ill solder it back into service. if that dont work im getting out the duct tape and the drywall screws!!! that should fix all of it

ps anyone paying attention to the replacement leather seat thread i have updated it

bauer