87fc3srx7

iTrader: (13)

I am having an issue still with my 87. It has an 88 JDM T2 swap in it, 3tek 1.5 ecu chip in a 332, street ported, with rc low impedence 750cc secondaries, 110 psi oil mod, and a 80mm corksport turbo back. My problem is that at 0 psi in the manifold the engine goes limp. I have researched the 3800 rpm hesitation and believe I have addressed all those problems. The engine is grounded well, the ecu has been upgraded, new secondaries etc. I have ordered new 750cc primaries and a walbro 255 lph high pressure fuel pump. Do I need a 1.7 rtek now with the 750's or do I have to go stand alone? This is my daily drive so any help would be awesome guys thanks!

87fc3srx7

iTrader: (13)

I am also having trouble holding idle. I have to rev the engine to keep it running at first and then let it idle for like 10 min. Even then if I stop quickly it will stall out from time to time. Could it be a spark issue? I have put new ngk plugs in. Should I get an amplifier like the hks dli or msd 6a? Car also has a n/a sr motorsports lightened flywheel and act clutch.

87fc3srx7

iTrader: (13)

Anyone have any suggestions?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Why do you have 750cc secondaries with an Rtek 1.5 chip? You know it's supposed to be used with four stock 550cc injectors, right? Adding 750cc primaries, as well will just make it idle/drive far worse. You need an Rtek 1.8 or an SAFC / other adjustable fuel controller to use four 750cc injectors. Throwing a walbro in the mix will also boost fuel pressure and make the car run rich under all conditions, including idle.

I doubt this is a spark problem, so don't waste money on aftermarket ignition boxes. Is there a particular RPM or throttle position that the engine hesitates at, or is it just any time you're about to build boost? What does go "limp" mean exactly? Can you not accelerate at all past that point? You do have an S4 TII boost sensor, right? How was the swap done? NA harness adapted, or TII harness? Do you have a BAC or thermowax?

87fc3srx7

iTrader: (13)

i had the 1.5 rtek first but it didn't solve the problem. i am considering going up to the 1.8 now but not sure it will do much. i have a narrow band afr and when the manifold hits 0 psi under boost it reads all the way lean and won't accelerate any longer. throttle doesn't seem to matter or rpms it's consistently at the boost level. the swap was done with a full harness and ecu (n332) i assume the boost sensor is there because it was running good for at least a few days that i've owned it. i'm not sure what thermowax is but all emissions have been removed.

SpikeDerailed

iTrader: (7)

it doesnt say that the car was originally a Tii. Are the AFM and Map sensors Tii units or n/a units?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Get the model number off of the boost sensor. If the sticker is still there, it should say N318. If it's an NA sensor, it will say N326 or N327.

Can you get up to redline if you stay very light on the throttle, and keep the engine in vacuum?

Going to your idle issue, if emissions were removed, the thermowax and BAC probably went with them. The thermowax props the primary throttle plate open slightly when the engine is cold. As it warms, the wax melts and the throttle moves to its warm position. If you have 2 coolant lines going to your TB, you have the thermowax. If you don't have it (or the BAC), cold starts can be rough.

87fc3srx7

iTrader: (13)

yes the afm is a t2 unit the entire swap came from one donor car.

87fc3srx7

iTrader: (13)

for some reason i want to say that there isn't a stock boost sensor, or at least it has been relocated. from memory i want to say that the vaccum line runs from the turbo to a manual boost controller, then back to the manifold. but im not sure. the photos in my profile may help correct my description. they are all red silicone hoses.

junito1

Intercooler pipe leak?

87fc3srx7

iTrader: (13)

i thought about that but i havent located one yet everything looks tight