ok, i have an 87 n/a base model, i just did the t2 conversion, i have it runnin and everything but not too well, and it ran fine in the t2, i got lookin at my boost sensor and it says n318, and everything else i have says n332, does anyone know what boost sensor this is? any input would b greatly appreciated. oh yeah, the t2 was an 87 too and ran really good, now it spits and sputters and dont rev right and dont want to idle so im just goin down the process of elimination and could really use some help

 

n318 is the s4 t2 boost sensor

 

ok, thanks, just didnt know if the dumb redneck i got it from replaced it w/his s5 n/a sensor, appreciate it

 

The EM harness on the engine. Is it Turbo or non turbo?

In your other post you mention no pressure for the secondarys. Ain't possible since you say the engine runs. If you have pressure in the primarys, you have pressure in the secondarys.

 

it stopped runnin all together and then i realized the secondarys werent pressurizing cause like i said it just sounded like someone just turned on a faucet, and i used the t2 harness, and is it possible for one of the injectors to be stuck open? would that give me the running faucet sound in the secondary rail? im just trying to learn everything i can so i can fix my 7 the right way, i really love driving it and now i borrowed a car from grandmaw so im not so stressed about having to have it run, i just want it done right ya know

 

Did you rearrange ALL those wires in the turbo EM harness to match the non turbo front harness?

Have you ever just gone to the boost sensor input at the ECU and read the voltage with the key to ON, Engine OFF? It's in the FSM, Fuel and Emissions section as to what it should read.

 

i did all the re-wiring, and the ecu has been rebuilt or whatever by the mazda dealer, the guy i got it from had the reciept, but i did put an ohm meter on all the sensors and everything was within specs as far as the hanes manuel said, and thanks for all the help, you guys dont know how much i really do appreciate it

 

So, you did go to the FEM-01 plug and either depinned the BR/R wire on the EM side of the plug, or run a new wire from the alternator to where the BR/R was on the FEM-01, so you wouldn't backfeed 12v from the Meter (or is it the Engine) fuse to the boost sensor input at the ECU. Well, since you took care of that, I don't know what the problem could be.