Tatakai

iTrader: (2)

started with a running strong bone stock n/a motor with about 40k on it, excellent compression and all that jazz. peiced together an ensemble of turbo parts, and now it wont start.

s5 n/a motor
s4 t2 turbo and manifold
s4 t2 lower/upper intake manifold
*s5 t2 throttle body w/ tps
**FD bps
**jdm s5 t2 maf
*jdm s5 t2 injectors

* parts came from a questionable jdm s5 motor, motor looked like it sat for a long time and ended up having low compression.
** parts came from japan2la and said will work with my setup fine

ALL emissions have been blocked off from the IM. all rats nest and sensors are removed.

so 5am rolls around, worked all night on the car with an event the next morning, i finally get to start it. turn the key, let the fuel pump prime, and turned the key. wouldn't start. it puffed a couple times like it wanted to start though. figured it was the injectors (questionable motor) so threw in the n/a injectors just because i knew they worked (didn't even flood). cranked it a bit with efi fuse pulled just in case, put it in and tried again. still wouldn't go.

motor only sat for like 5 days between running like a champ and trying to start it.

my next guess is to try to source another s5 t2 tps. the tb came off the old motor gunked to hell, which i just sprayed down with brake kleen and wd40 for the sticking plates. i think tonight im going to see if i can mount the tps on a spare s5 t2 tb i have, and see if that will work.

HAILERS

About the only way I see a TPS being the culprit is if the TPS is so out of range that it simulates being at full throttle.

If the pedal is held to the floor on a series five, and the ECU sees the START signal from the ignition key Start circuit, then the ECU cuts the primary fuel injector off. I find it hard to believe that is happening.

I'd buy a can of starter fluid. Spray for about two seconds or less in the airfilter. Start the car. DO NOT keep the engine running by spraying starter fluid. It will cause knock if you do that. Harmful to the engine.

I'd also make sure you have spark and pull the plug off the ECU and make sure all four fuel injectors have batt voltage with the key to ON.

Make sure the AFM plug is on the AFM. Pull the RETURN line off the engine, key to ON, jumper the fuel pump check connector and see if fuel is running out the hard RETURN line from the engine to the floor.. If it is, then the plumbing is ok for the fuel pump.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

s5 JDM engines have the fuel lines Reversed(compared to S4).so you may want to look at the fuel Lines at the Engine,and to the Fuel filter..if they are switched..Bam,No start.

Tatakai

iTrader: (2)

i thought about that but both fuel rails had fuel in them when i switched the injectors.

HAILERS great info, i'll try the starter fluid idea tomarrow. i know the afm was plugged in because the afm/bps/ecu were the last things i did.

Japan2LA

iTrader: (256)

EDIT:
NF01 BPS ( NOT FD)
N390 AFM

Both will work on a S5 TII swap

Tatakai

iTrader: (2)

sorry, lack of sleep

Tatakai

iTrader: (2)

just tried my n/a ecu, still nothing, but again it puffed maybe twice like it wanted to go. im thinkin either get the throttle cable hooked up or have someone open the throttle while i crank it? im going to grab some starter fluid from work today.

Tatakai

iTrader: (2)

rx7 buddy suggested changing the plugs, which i was planning on doing any since i was a bit overdue on changing them anyways.

put new plugs in
de-flood process
cranked, couple puffs like before
de-flood, found uim wasn't fully bolted down. fixed.
cranked, a few more puffs than usual, like it fired off a whole rotation.
de-flood
cranked with someone in the car and myself modulating throttle
pulled brand new plug from rear trailing,
noticed oil buildup in center area of the plug, cleaned off, reinstalled, which lead to a full rotation of puffing again.

am i for some reason squirting way to much oil into the system? should i try unplugging the omp and run in limp mode just for diagnostic purposes?

ive been doing diagnostic with n/a injectors and ecu, since i know both are working units. no sensors have been changed besides the tps and iat.

HAILERS

Pull the fuel pump plug off. Leave it off. Spray from one to two seconds of starter fluid into the air filter. All plumbing and plugs connected on the engine. Start the car. It should go varoom for a second. Repeat a couple of times more. Then try it with the fuel pump check connector on.

Do not remove any fuses doing the above. None at all.

Tatakai

iTrader: (2)

going to the store now. kinda forgot about trying that.

Tatakai

iTrader: (2)

from going to the store and coming back it gave out handful of puffs when i was making sure the fuel system was full. unplugged the pump, sprayed some in, and it puffed some more and stopped. plugged the pump back in and sprayed a little more, it puffed a lot more than before.

sprayed a little more and played with the throttle. after repeated attempts, it seems i could get it to half run at pretty much full throttle, but it would only start to run on its own and then go back to just cranking. maybe got up to like 300rpms? got a few downpipe backfires (no FLAMES, just pops)

with the throttle cable yanked all the way it would sound like a motor that hasn't run in forever sounds- like its kinda half running, and giving it some throttle will clear it out and it'll run like a champ. but instead of clearing out and running like a champ it just dies and goes back to cranking....

got another event tomarrow and there's no way i'll get anyone to let me run there car since there's quite a few walls and high speed....

turbo_dave

iTrader: (50)

s5 n/a motor is 6 port,s4 tII intake is 4 port.so what gasket did you use and did you port match the intake to mate the 6 port motor.i had this problem too.on the lower tII intake manifold right above the secondary ports its hollow, has to be filled in with epoxy or something of that sort,then port match it to the 6 port.if not filled with epoxy you have a very big vacuum leak there,which would cause the motor not to start or backfire.

Tatakai

iTrader: (2)

video of my motor wanting to run.
http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/e...rent=start.flv

video was cut in a few places (that are seamless because im a beast like that) in between starts because the battery sucks and i was jumping it off my sisters car. looks like the audio/video got a little off from eachother about halfway through.. lame.

this morning i took off all manifolds and inspected things. everything checked out.

Tatakai

iTrader: (2)

bump for the video.

http://s233.photobucket.com/albums/e...rent=start.flv

turbo_dave

iTrader: (50)

i just saw the video.one question what computer are you using stock or aftermarket,because if you are using stock you are never going to get it started without the the top mount intercooler off and all the intake hardware.the air flow meter wont be able to give a reading that way.you have to put the intake and airflow meter on,put the intercooler back on and the stock BOV back on,again thats only if you are using the stock e.c.u,.if you are running aftermarket computer disreguard all this and keep trouble shooting.

KhanArtisT

iTrader: (2)

You should post some pics or a video under the hood so anything obviously wrong can be pointed out. Another thing- check for codes! Jump the single pin green test connector next to the leading coil to the negative battery terminal and see how many times the CEL flashes.

http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/ER...KI/kerror.html

The car sounds exactly like mine when I disconnect the AFM or leave an intercooler pipe disconnected.

Edit: dumb suggestion but make sure there is fuel in the tank

fcdrifter13

Sounds like the devil when i got it, car had trouble starting and we had to pull start it to get it going. Make sure the timing is dead on, and you have no vac leaks and like everyone else has said the AFM is hooked up.

EDIT: also the TIP on mine was cracked really bad and it would have trouble starting until i fixed that. So I would check that out also.

Tatakai

iTrader: (2)

i have two ecu's, an n/a and a turbo, ive been using the n/a to try and start the car since i KNOW it works.

i'll aquire the bov thats at my buddies house and try starting it with everything connected after work. tbh, im going to be mad if it runs after that.

fcdrifter what is the TIP?

thanks for the help guys!!

fcdrifter13

TIP is turbo inlet pipe or its atleast what i call it, the big rubber ducting between the AFM and compressor.

Tatakai

iTrader: (2)

yea that's what i was thinking, ive only read it as a "Turbo inlet duct" or TID. i know that's all tight though.

NinjaGUYdan

AFM gives signal to the fuel pump relay as well so everything needs to be plumbed in order to take a good assessment. Also, you must disconnect the battery to reset the airflow meter if you have cranked the engine with the ECU on. The readings will be all f'ed up coming from the AFM otherwise. And BTW, are you the guy who called me about a downpipe? Ian's friend?

Tatakai

iTrader: (2)

word the more ive been thinking about it the more sense it makes to have all the plumbing hooked up. the car has been kept with the battery disconnected since the battery loses pretty much all charge when its not used.. lame.

yea man, i called you about the downpipe. ended up getting a flange and o2 bung from earl, had ian weld me up a 3" downpipe that is kinda 2.5" in the middle to clear to firewall. lol

NinjaGUYdan

Right on. Just be a little cautious about boost spike. Your probably going to be hitting fuel cut a lot too. I know it's a bitch to diagnose with the intercooler in he way but with everything hooked up correctly, we all will be able to help you a lot more.

HAILERS

Sorry, I didn't see the video before. I agree, that thing won't start unless you get the turbo inlet duct on and the intercooler and it's plumbing fully connected up.

I stared at that video and wondered what the deal was. Then you sprayed in that hose, and I said, what the heck is that hose??? Then, where is the throttle body and is this a turbo or non turb 'cause I can't see the throttle body.......and then the dawn. Ain't got no intercooler on that engine. I still have not figured out that hose you sprayed in, but no matter. Gotta have intercooler and all plumbing.

Just reinforcing what was said previously. Starter fluid in the airfilter next time. Same amount.

EDIT: I couldn't watch either video all the way through. It was tooooo disheartening to listen to that sounds of a spinning starter and no engine action. Too sad to listen to. I just cut the video off half way through.

HAILERS

You could use a PVC pipe like in the attached picture in lieu of the intercooler.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=199439

Some PVC pipe and elbows and block all the small hose that go to the intercooler. That way you can work on the throttle body while the engine is running.