n/a to T2 complete rebuild problem
n/a to T2 complete rebuild problem
hey guys i just dropped in an s5 tII in my 91 fc convertible. i got it off got-jdm.com. tore i down to the rotor housings and replace all seals and bought a complete gasket package along with it. put it all back together and dropped it in.
heres the problem when i go to start it, it just turns over. i dont have a compression gauge but i can hear 6 strong puffs come out when i crank it. i checked the spark plugs and there good. made sure fuel was getting into the fuel rails. is there something im missing to check?
my other question is were does the vacuum brake booster line connect to on the engine. im anxious to hear this thing run, any feed back would be appreciated
my pride and joy
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heres the problem when i go to start it, it just turns over. i dont have a compression gauge but i can hear 6 strong puffs come out when i crank it. i checked the spark plugs and there good. made sure fuel was getting into the fuel rails. is there something im missing to check?
my other question is were does the vacuum brake booster line connect to on the engine. im anxious to hear this thing run, any feed back would be appreciated
my pride and joy
<a href="http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/allengetts/?action=view¤t=P1050582.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/allengetts/P1050582.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/allengetts/?action=view¤t=P1050581.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/allengetts/P1050581.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/allengetts/?action=view¤t=P1050579.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q203/allengetts/P1050579.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
the brake booster line connects to a big nipple behind the throttle body. I have the same question as the above poster. I dont see a flowmeter are you running an aftermarket ECU?
You don't need the AFM to start it. It will start on a base fuel map and then proceed to die once the engine has started up. (It will rev up and then die).
The engine needs three things to start.
Compression.
Fuel
Spark
Poor mans comp test checked out for you but I'd still grab a comp tester and test it.
Make sure your fuel system works. Is fuel getting to the housings? If you have cranked on it allot you may have flooded it. At that point you would also smell gas meaning fuel is getting in.
Check for spark by pulling one plug at a time. Connecting it to its wire, and laying it on a good grounding surface. While your cranking it over you should see spark.
If you have those three it should start.
The engine needs three things to start.
Compression.
Fuel
Spark
Poor mans comp test checked out for you but I'd still grab a comp tester and test it.
Make sure your fuel system works. Is fuel getting to the housings? If you have cranked on it allot you may have flooded it. At that point you would also smell gas meaning fuel is getting in.
Check for spark by pulling one plug at a time. Connecting it to its wire, and laying it on a good grounding surface. While your cranking it over you should see spark.
If you have those three it should start.
Had this problem when i recently rebuilt my car.
One thing should be known, since you just replaced the seals, your compression is going to be very very bad until the engine has a chance to break in.
One thing that kept my engine from starting was the timing. Double check and make sure your CAS is installed properly.
If still no start, you can help add some compression by adding a couple tablespoons of oil into each lower spark plug hole, put the spark plugs back, and try again. This worked like a charm for me. Though if you do this, your car is going to smoke like a bitch for a while.
One thing should be known, since you just replaced the seals, your compression is going to be very very bad until the engine has a chance to break in.
One thing that kept my engine from starting was the timing. Double check and make sure your CAS is installed properly.
If still no start, you can help add some compression by adding a couple tablespoons of oil into each lower spark plug hole, put the spark plugs back, and try again. This worked like a charm for me. Though if you do this, your car is going to smoke like a bitch for a while.
thanks for feed back,
i dont have the amf hooked up cause i had nothing to connect it to the turbo with ,so i had to make due with a bent intercooler pipe i had left over to get it around the fan. haha i no im cheap
i have the stock s5tII ecu and wiring harness.
as for the fan shroud it will go on once its all running.
could it be a spark timing issue? i tried cranking it while turning the crank angle sensor to see if the timing was off but had no luck.
another question- there is a big nipple on the side of the intake manifold the shop manual i bought dosn't say what it connects too . . so what does it go to haha
i dont have the amf hooked up cause i had nothing to connect it to the turbo with ,so i had to make due with a bent intercooler pipe i had left over to get it around the fan. haha i no im cheap
i have the stock s5tII ecu and wiring harness.
as for the fan shroud it will go on once its all running.
could it be a spark timing issue? i tried cranking it while turning the crank angle sensor to see if the timing was off but had no luck.
another question- there is a big nipple on the side of the intake manifold the shop manual i bought dosn't say what it connects too . . so what does it go to haha
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Cranking the engine over while using a timing light..............won't work very well, because the ECU advances the timing duing START. Meaning the MARKS on the pulley won't show up across from the fixed pin on the front cover.
If the AFM isn't connected up electricaly, it isn't going to stay running once started.
You NEED to find out IF you have spark or....not. Probably not.
For timing, you need to remove the flat, black cover from the top of the CAS. Remove the CAS from the engine first. Then align the lead timing mark with the fixed pin on the front cover.
Align the CAS's timing marks on the bottom of the CAS. THEN, while holding that position, look in the top of the CAS. Note the position of the two pointers on the rotating part. Note how they cut across the corner of the two black coils. INstall the CAS in the engine. Turn the body of the CAS til the two pointers mentioned are once again cutting across the corners of the black coils.
If the AFM isn't connected up electricaly, it isn't going to stay running once started.
You NEED to find out IF you have spark or....not. Probably not.
For timing, you need to remove the flat, black cover from the top of the CAS. Remove the CAS from the engine first. Then align the lead timing mark with the fixed pin on the front cover.
Align the CAS's timing marks on the bottom of the CAS. THEN, while holding that position, look in the top of the CAS. Note the position of the two pointers on the rotating part. Note how they cut across the corner of the two black coils. INstall the CAS in the engine. Turn the body of the CAS til the two pointers mentioned are once again cutting across the corners of the black coils.
Last edited by HAILERS; Oct 18, 2008 at 10:05 AM.
sry it took me so long to respond had some shitty weather lately. i bought new spark plugs thinking the old ones were bad, which they were. yet still no spark so now im thinking its somthing to do with the coils?
The fuel at the rail doesn't show the injectors are spraying...while you have the CAS out leave it connected and spin the bottom of the gear with the key ON listening for plugs and injectors firing.
To see if its flooded keep cranking the car and checking the plugs, they should have lots of fuel on them.
As for the coils, a bad leading coil is the only possibility as the car will run surprisingly well without the trailings. Check the resistance of the coil where the two plug wires go in and remove the L1 L2 cover and check resistance where the two wires are bolted on. You can skip all this if you do what is stated in the end of post #5.
To see if its flooded keep cranking the car and checking the plugs, they should have lots of fuel on them.
As for the coils, a bad leading coil is the only possibility as the car will run surprisingly well without the trailings. Check the resistance of the coil where the two plug wires go in and remove the L1 L2 cover and check resistance where the two wires are bolted on. You can skip all this if you do what is stated in the end of post #5.
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