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Mostly Stock 1987 TurboII... What else to do while rebuilding engine...??

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Old 04-13-20, 06:18 PM
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Mostly Stock 1987 TurboII... What else to do while rebuilding engine...??

So my 1987 TurboII lost compression in the rear rotor. I don't know exactly why since I haven't cracked the motor yet, although I can tell you it was directly after driving pretty hard for a lengthy period of time. I have no idea how old the motor was that was in there, but definitely not original since the rotor housings have the S5 knock sensor holes above plug and its a 87.

Anyway, so far I've pulled the long block out of the car and have proceeded to rebuild another S4 motor I have. Once it's back together I'm figuring I'll transfer everything to the new block from the old and then drop her back into the car.

My question is what can I do while doing this to make it a bit easier to work on & freeing up some unnecessary nonsense. It's already missing the air pump, 3" exhaust, no cats and an HKS piggyback... Everything else stock.

I do daily drive this and another car so reliability is important.

Thank you in advance for any input...!!!
Old 04-16-20, 03:46 PM
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New coolant hoses, radiator upgrade? New vac lines, fuel lines, have injectors serviced, replace fuel filter, change in tank fuel sock.

inspect everything around engine so none of them come to bite you.
Old 05-02-20, 11:22 AM
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Thanks Kompressor for the reply...!! I ordered new silicone radiator and heater hoses from eBay. HPS is the company and they come in the color red. I figured since my car is red why not & now I’m really hoping they don’t look cheesy or awkward. 🤷🏻‍♂️ I also just noticed I ordered the NA heater hoses. I hope they're the same for a TurboII....??? I picked up an aluminum radiator, polyurethane motor / tranny mounts, & ACT Clutch as well. I’ll prob order new plugs & wires today too.

My original post & question is this tho... I’m used to a empty engine bay like in my 1st gen. This 1987 TurboII has just tooo much **** in the way which makes even pulling the plugs a chore. I know I’m sounding real spoiled rn but what I’d like to do somehow is just make this thing easier to service and work on. Here in NY I no longer have to do emissions inspections on the car, just a saftey... so I’m sure somethings can go or be cleaned up. Again everything is there minus an air pump. I’ll post a pic.





Thanks in advance to ANY feedback...!!!!



Old 05-02-20, 12:19 PM
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with a t2 i always end up checking everything that goes on the engine, about half the time stuff is either stuck/not working or it was hooked up wrong..

if you have the right tools, the spark plugs are easy, and its the PS/AC in the way anyways..
Old 05-03-20, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
if you have the right tools, the spark plugs are easy, and its the PS/AC in the way anyways..
I’ve taken the plugs out plenty, but getting the compression tester in there is a chore when I’m used to that empty space on my 1st gen.

I have a parts car w non-power steering rack n pinion....? That’d be a step towards where I’m looking to go. 🤔
Old 05-03-20, 04:52 PM
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What do I search to find out how to get rid of this ****.....?
Old 05-03-20, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 85TIIDEVIL



What do I search to find out how to get rid of this ****.....?
Rats nest / emissions delete. Usually mod #1 for these cars, unless you're a purist. With only a piggyback you might want to consider keeping it/some of it, as it's hard enough to get these cars to idle and stay running with a proper standalone and all that deleted.
Old 05-05-20, 05:22 PM
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Thank you DC5 for the reply....!! My brain has so much stored lately it pushes simple phrases out like rats nest and emissions delete 😂

How about this flap door thing....? Anyway to test it...?? Do I even need it...???


Old 05-07-20, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 85TIIDEVIL
Thank you DC5 for the reply....!! My brain has so much stored lately it pushes simple phrases out like rats nest and emissions delete 😂

How about this flap door thing....? Anyway to test it...?? Do I even need it...???

What you're pointing to is the twin scroll valve, and what you've circled is the flap it actuates. For a stock turbo, keep it. It improves boost response/torque.

To test, I'm sure there's a procedure in the FSM to test the mechanical portion by apply a vacuum; my guess is you could probably suck on the hose and get some movement, or use a hand vacuum pump. To test the electrical solenoid itself you can use a DMM when the car is running, or test on a bench.

Fc3spro.com/TECH/PROBLEMS/EM/solenoids.hrm

Last edited by DC5Daniel; 05-07-20 at 11:17 AM.
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