jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

..

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Haven't noticed any seeping from hole yet and not loosing any coolant. I'm getting a yoohoo belt till I decide what to do bout a dual pulley. I have a modded alt and would like to find a overdrive dual pulley for charging at idle.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

More YOO HOO belt info:

The part # is: Gate's Power rated #6822

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I'm sitting in the basement trying to reply with a smartphone...when a computer is upstairs....was getting ready to go swimming! Now that I am at the computer I can reply easier....

I pulled the koyo rad and oil cooler for engine swap. The ac condesnor stayed in place. I am missing some of the foam that helped seal the oil cooler. When I mounted my taurus fan I used foam to help seal it. I did notice one of my metal zip ties is not holding one corner down very well. I'll address that as well as check the other corners.

It does cool down once I let the car sit idling with efan running. It will cool at idle with the hood down, but cools much quicker when I raise the hood.

And you read my mind about switching to high till this is sorted.

I've got a modded S5 alt for 140 amps. Right now I'm not digging it simply because my car sat and the battery is already weak. It not seeing 14v at idle is quite frustrating when you want your car to idle and cool from the efan and hoping your car battery doesn't crap out and leave you stranded in 97 degree heat... For now I'm ok holding rpms at 1k to keep the battery charging, but a dual overdrive pulley sure would be nice...of course then I have heat and extra wear.

Kind of a topic for a different thread. But my OEM crap volt gauge shows 14v at idle. BUT when I test the alt and battery with a multitester is see 12v.

For the water pump I'm not sure which I'm using. I have an OEM from the n/a engine and I have a reman that I got from Rock Auto. Accessory type parts got mixed while I assembled the turbo and tore down the n/a. Neither pump gave me any issues before rebuild/teardown.

As I remember it the impellers all looked identical on all three that I've used.

Nice find on both part numbers. I was gonna end up ordering the 3L220

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

One important variable I hadn't considered till just now....I have powder coated pulleys. I had the main and water pump pulleys done in black. I would not be at all surprised if the smoother surface is also letting the single belt slip once RPMs rise above idle.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Picked up the Napa belt Item#: NBH257215 and there is no way on earth it's stretching. I tried getting it on the main pulley first but I can't even get the belt over the bolts on the water pump pulley. I tried turning the main pulley with a socket wrench to spin it even over the bolts and at least get it on the flat surface ahead of the pulley groove....no go.

Part of my problem is that I have both p/s and a/c sections on the main pulley and trying to have the belt in the groove on the main pulley puts the belt at too much of an angle to work it on to the water pump pulley. I suppose I could try taking the p/s and a/c pulleys off the main. BUT now I'm thinking I'll buy one of the dual pulleys in standard size. I have soooo many damn alt pulleys from trying to match my previous alt (FD) that this sounds like the best next course of action.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I ordered a dual belt pulley from Banzai this morning

jal301

iTrader: (4)

I installed this belt recently and it is a bitch. This was my second attempt in so many years. I ended up removing both the pump pulley and the main pulley bolts, installing the belt, then trying to slide the pulleys back on but that didn't work. Ultimately I ended up getting it completely around the main pulley, installing longer bolts into the pump pulley and allowing them to stick out a bit, then using them as leverage against the little 'nub' that sticks out of the middle of the pulley with a screw driver (use a heavy one) to driver the pulley around until the belt was completely around both pulleys. You'll most likely bend these bolts used for leverage so plan on scrapping them. You have to also guide it straight into the pump pulley with your other hand or else it will begin to twist further than you want as it gets driven in. Now that I think about it, I may have even had the main pulley loose as I spun the pump pulley, then spun it further once the belt was on in order to get the main pulley aligned to get the bolts installed again.

Basically, this should really be enough evidence to convince us that this is a 'hokey' fix. I guess it's worth it if you can make it work but there are definitely better options when the funds become available.

Good luck.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Already decided that! I could tell last night that it was going to be more work than it was worth. It seemed like one of those jobs I'd never want to do again. The idea of getting that thing on and then for whatever reason needing to replace the alt belt behind it was enough for me to hop online and order the pulley from Banzai.... that I should have ordered in the first place and a couple months ago.

I'm still going to try and find a dual pulley but smaller for overdrive but I'm not very optimistic I'll have much luck.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

The dual belt pulley arrived over the weekend. Got it on and took the car for a drive tonight. There was definitely some belt slip going on before the dual belt. The low level chirp noise I previously heard at idle was gone. But by the time I got to my destination there was a high pitch noise at idle that was not previously there before my drive.

It was a cooler night than when I took the car on the same drive on Memorial weekend in 100° heat. Did not heat up nearly as fast and temps were dropping as I sat at lights with the fan going....but they did get to just below 220.

1. I've checked my radiator hoses they aren't collapsing.
2. I did what I could to test for cold spots on the radiator but did not have time to take the undertray off and feel the front of the radiator. I simply stuck my hand between fan blades and felt with my fingers...all the spots I could check seemed the same temp.
3. The top passenger corner of the fan shroud does not sit snuggly at all. I can pull it off the radiator by about 1/3 of an inch. I'll resecure that, but I wouldn't think it would have that much of an effect.
4. I'll go through and put some foam around oil cooler, condensor and radiator...just to make sure.

One thing I'm curious about. Is my oil cooler. It seems like I have a pinhole somewhere in the oilcooler. I keep finding oil pooling up on the bottom of the radiator and in other strange places around the oil cooler. I had a failure on one of my oil cooler hoses on one of my first drives after rebuild. It created a fountain of oil. I had thought that oil on the bottom of the radiator was simply gravity from me not being able to get the oil cleaned up off of everything (ie: fan blades, fan shroud, etc). Reason I bring this up is I'm curious if I do have a pinhole and I am loosing hot oil..and it happens to be on the radiator fins...seems like that could cause the radiator to not cool as well. Any opinions on this would be greatly appreciated.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Update:

Dual belt pulley on, switched from low to high wiring on the taurus fan. Bought a new radiator cap. Unrelated to overheating problems. I've taken the a/c compressor off flushed and filled with ester oil in prep for my converting over to R152a.

Took the car for short drives the last couple nights. Both on cool nights so it's not the best test. One without the hood and temps never got to 200. As I was pulling the car into the garage temps got to 200, my efan had not kicked on yet so I manual toggled it on and temps dropped like expected. Last night I took it for a drive after putting the hood on. Temps rose to 200 and my efan had not kicked on yet. I toggled it on and temps dropped...and quickly. Cooling system is acting as expected. Temps rise to just below 180 and hold for a good amount of time. Thermostat seems to be opening like it should, radiator holds temps for a while then they start to go up again.

I'm a lil concerned about my temp switch, it should be a 195 on and 185 off and it's not telling the fan to kick on till temps get just above 200. Gauge sender and temp switch are virtually in the same spot. Temp sender is on the front of the water pump housing just below the thermostat and the switch is in the factory location on the back of the water pump housing. I thought I purchased a Starion switch 195/185....it's acting more like a 205?

Also my 40amp fuse link blew at some point between me turning off the fan while driving. I waited till temps dropped to 180 and turned it off. Got back to the garage and by that point temps were just over 200 and fan had not come on. Flipped the manual switch and no fan. Turned the engine off and fuse link had blown. My understanding is that high setting is 40 amp. If my wiring is correct and I'm using fuse links (less likely to blow) that my fuse should not have popped. If I'm using high speed on the fan should I go to 50amp fuse links?

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

I have a 200*/185 switch from Summit that comes on at 185* and never goes off. Had it in the radiator and in the water pump. Same temps. This may not be a precision device...

Regarding the fan fusable link: The taurus fan pulls 27 amps on high. I measured it myself. You have some other problem.


Are you referring to a fusable link placed in the underhood fuse panel? I did this a couple of years ago. It looked so very OEM, neat and clean. I had to stop using that location because of melting fusables. 30 amp and 40 amp would melt the housings, but NOT blow the link. I melted several 30 and then one 40 amp.

I went to a 30 amp automatic resetting circuit breaker using 30/40 amp relays with 1/4" lugs. 10 gauge wiring on both the power-high/low and the ground. I've had *no* wiring trouble for over 1 year.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

I"ll have to check my records and see if I still have the invoice from ordering the Starion switch. I doubt I still have it It's been almost two years, but as I remember it I bought it because it was 195 on and matched thread pattern of the OEM location. I mentioned to my father the temp difference between when the fan is supposed to kick on and when it actually kicks on and he brought up a good point...that there is probably a margin of error.

The other possibility is that I'm using a couple of used (did not purchase them new) Prosport gauges for water and oil temp. It's of course possible that the water temp one is not reading correctly.

I may go buy an amp meter after work.....or hell just down the road from my job is a car stereo shop. Maybe they let me borrow one of their's...or I drive my car to them and let them check it while I wait.

With the fan wiring it looks like I'm following the same process that you did with your fan. I do have my wiring going through the main fuse block and I did it for the neat OEM look..well that and I read that fuselinks are less likely to blow because they warm up slowly. And YES!! they do get warm. From the get-go I've noticed them being warm, but so far as I remember this is first one to blow..but also the first time I've used the high speed with the fuselink...it took one drive to pop it. Why is the main fuse relay a problematic spot? It seemed logical to use that area. Is it that the distribution can't handle the added current when combined with all the other fuses on that same block?

I am also using 30/40 relay (only one in my setup) and also have 10ga wiring. I bought a circuit breaker when I first started working bugs out of my efan setup, but have not started using it. I work on my car 15 min away from both my home and any shopping areas. My folks have a spacious garage and I can share tools with my father . Downside is that I tend to try and buy EVERYTHING I think I might need for a job.

Here is the wiring diagram for my efan

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

oh...two things

I have not added the idle up yet

And I noobish question...but is my reseting circuit breaker directional? They have one copper pole and one not. I Googled thinking it would be a simple answer and turned up nothing.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Copper is toward the power. Not sure it matters much, but that is the intent.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Was ready yesterday to take my car for a drive in the heat of day to test the cooling and fan....TPS is apparently out now. Narrow tests fine on the low range but then jumps from low range spectrum (.8-2-3ohms..can't remember the exact numbers) to 6ohms without any range on the high end. I think upper end is like 4-6ohms. Mine goes dead from 3ish ohms and sees nothing till 6ohms. Going back down it will see 6ohms and see something in the upper 4s and lower5s...but on the way up it sees nothing from 3ish till 6. Full range seems fine and I have two N/A tps one of them with a good narrow range and bad full range. Time to solder....

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Well....recharged batteries in the multitester bring different results today than yesterday. Yesterday the low battery indicator was coming on, it was shutting down and all I had were dead rechargables. Today the TPS shows much more normal range.

Though there is a dead range on full range WOT. I've tested 4 different TPS, one of them on a bone stock perfectly operating n/a. Every one of them has a dead range on WOT range from mid 3.0 ohms to mid 4.0 ohms.

For the time being I'm going to put the old TPS on and see what happens. I don't want to hack up wiring unless I need to.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

Learned some interesting things today.

1. My efan is pulling air through on low but pushing air on high..?? Only thing that I thought I was changing when I go from low to high was swapping the low and high fused/circuit breaker wire coming off the battery. I have spade terminal crimps on each wire and until I worked out my cooling problems I was swapping between them. I hadn't noticed the pushing air issue because I have not been using high at all. I just swapped to high this past week or weekend. Obviously something is up with my wiring.
   
2. All of my electrical accessories surge higher when RPMs go up. Well, lights and now the efan is all I've noticed thus far) I've been told this is normal and I've noticed it on other cars. BUT after rebuild and swap this car and engine are doing it to more of an extreme. I was reminded of it today because I've been playing with both my efans (I have two, one is beat up and I use it for testing) Both of them the fan speed increases when I go above idle. Same thing happens with lights. Like I said I've been told this is normal, but I've driven the same engine before rebuild, I've owned other S5 cars...none of them have the lights brighten to the extent this car does after rebuild. One of the reasons I pulled the factory battery/alt harness and ran new wiring is because I was hoping new wiring would fix that annoying issues. Maybe it's more than just an annoyance.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I think you need to reexamine your observations of this phenomenon...because basically, it ain't possible. Both speeds share a common ground, which you are not changing, so the motors polarity is not changing.
Secondly, to change from push to pull the blades must be inverted...again, something you are not doing.

I don't know how to explain what you think you're seeing but it's be easy to confirm visually...does the fan spin in different directions with different speeds?

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

It was obvious they changed directions. I've been blowing fuses and throwing circuit breakers. I bought an temp gun and want to test when my switch is telling my fan to turn on. I thought I had put a 195 on switch, but my aftermarket gauge is reading above 200 before it turns on.

I have a spare taurus efan. The plan was this: Lay the spare fan on the radiator panel have it plugged into my cars wiring. Throw the manual switch and see if my circuit breaker resets. Tried it on low, tried it on high. The spare fan never reset the circuit breaker. Didn't matter how long it was on for, didn't matter if i was toggling it on or off. Turn the engine off. Swap the harness to the mounted efan. I have it on high. Start the engine, start the fan. I get out of the car to check my battery with my multitester to see what the fan on high is doing to my battery at idle. I have forced air blowing out from the bumper grill onto my shins and feet!!! Put my hand over the shroud to confirm what I didn't believe....it was sucking air from engine out and the radiator. With the engine still running I swapped the high wire with the low wire...it reversed direction and was sucking air from radiator and through the fan.

I wouldn't think it could be possible either. I have 3-wire fans. I would think it could only be 1 ground other 2 power.

JustJeff

iTrader: (13)

To confirm...yes the fan was pushing air on high and pulling air on low. I played with my spare fan and a battery. Yes they can spin opposite direction. Reverse polarity and it reverses direction.

What I had done to test before putting the fan on after I had put the engine in the car was simply use a spare battery and spare fan. I found low right away and assumed that high was the other pin. I had never used high until recently.

What I found today was that I had fan ground going to constant fused on the battery. I had low going to going to 87.

It is now corrected. I have high setup. Took the car for a drive to warm it up. Brought it back home at 190 to see when my temp switch triggers the fan at. Temp gun read 200 and the fan turned off at around 185-190. I manually turned on the fan and let it run and the circuit breaker never tripped. With temp at 200 and fan on I took the car for a drive. It was a short drive because I had to leave. BUT on that drive fan was on like normal. It turned off like normal at around 185-190. I knew it was a short drive so I manually turned it back on to test the circuit breaker. It never turned off. I tried keeping the RPMs at around 4k to create more heat. Temps never got above 205ish. But again this was a short drive and not a real test. Positive none the less though

I've got a link I found googling and a pic of the 3pin pinout...but I'm at a relatives using IE and have no clue how to copy location in this browser....I'll do it when I get home tonight.