I just bought a 10th AE RX-7 and it has problems overheating and a lot of blue smoke coming out the tailpipe. I don't know a whole lot about cars, but as far as I understand the blue smoke would be a result of unburned fuel?

There car as had a lot done to it, I don't remember everything but the things I do remember is that it has an Apexi catback, G3/G4 Turbo (I think, I forgot, it's the garrett turbo that was a hybrid of two of their models), and a Greedy intercooler (front mount I believe)?

It'll drive about 1-2 miles before it starts overheating; I haven't actually driven it, but the guy I bought it from needed to drive it from his work to his house, which is about that far.

The guy I bought it from thinks it was a blown engine, but to be honest I don't think he knows much (anything) about this car. I'm pretty sure he bought it because he likes Inital D. He bought it as non-start put it distributor on and now it starts fine.

Anyways, I was hoping you guys could give me things to look at. I don't have money to throw at the car right now but I'd like to at least be able to narrow down what the problem is and if possible avoid spending $1,300-$1,500 getting it rebuilt.

 

Search for pressure testing the coolant system. Borrow the tool from autozone. Sounds like possible coolant seal failure.

 

It is definitely leaking coolant near the passenger side tire. And I'm not exactly sure what these cars are supposed to sound like but it sounds kind of like half the engine would pause for a moment 1/4th the time. It seemed very mechanical in how often it would do that, not random at all. I'm not exactly sure how to explain it... It didn't quite sound like a misfire though

 

blue smoke is oil.
just for the hell of it check this: where the oil filler neck is,there is a nipple on the neck,also a nipple on the Center iron(middle top of engine just behind the oil filler tube)
if those nipples are blocked off the engine will smoke because it is Gagging the ventilation of the "crankcase".Uncap them if they are capped.
You need to do a good overall check on this car first..Look at the things that do not seem right,like a puddle under the car,oil leaking from wherever..and Then post.
Pics help alot too,so if you can post pics by all means Pop them up!

 

Big turbo, FMIC...stock radiator? Sounds like it wouldn't be too hard to overheat the car. You're right about that intercooler being greedy, big FMICs are really greedy for cool air. Most also require modification or removal of the plastic ducting to the radiator.

The leak sounds like it's from the hoses, or the coolant return from the heater core. All three hoses are in the same general spot, check there. If the hoses are old it would be a good idea to replace them anyway.

The oil could be from inside the engine. But this also has a turbo, and when turbo are abused they smoke before they die.

 

I'll try looking at the nipple things tomorrow, though it won't be til later cause I've got a blackbelt test to go to in the morning.

Well, it smokes on idle so I don't know if that would affect the turbo... Nor do I remember if it has a stock radiator (I'm getting the list of most of the mods emailed to me tomorrow, will update when I know more), however it seemed like there was no plastic around the radiator, but I didn't really look that closely. Like I said, I don't know a whole lot about cars so even if I had been looking at it, if I didn't know to look I most likely would have over looked it.

As a side note, some of the piping looked pretty worn out. I'll take some pictures of the engine tomorrow; But if you could kind of direct me where to take the pictures that would be awesome. Oh, and is there any way to check if a turbo is dying? Or would the only way be to check the boost gauge while driving (I don't want to drive the car, cause I don't wanna break more stuff ><)?

Thanks for the help, you guys are awesome.


//Edit: I took the time to figure out what FMIC was. So, if you read my post when it still had the part regarding that, nevermind xD

 

The coolant leak on the passenger side could be due to an o- ring failure behind the LIM.

 

What does LIM stand for? Is there a link with the definitions of all these acronyms? ><

 

LIM= Lower Intake Manifold.


ACV = Air Control Valve
AFM = Air Flow Meter (also see MAF)
A-spec = North American Spec
ATF = Automatic transmission fluid
Auto = Automatic transmission
AWS = Accelerated Warm-Up System
BAC = Bypass Air Control
CAS = Crank Angle Sensor
CPU = Central Processing Unit (the Body computer)
DEI = Dynamic Effect Intake (found on 84 and later 13B engines)
DMM = Digital Multi-Meter (required for most electrical testing on cars)
DTSS = Dynamic tracking suspension system (found on all 2nd gen RX-7s)
ECU = Emissions Control Unit (also called Engine Control unit)
EFI = Electronic Fuel Injection
EGI = Electronic Gasoline Injection
EMS = Engine Management System (aftermarket engine computer)
FB = 1st gen RX-7 81-85 production
FC = 2nd gen RX-7 86-92 production
FC3C = 2nd gen RX-7 convertible
FC3S = 2nd gen RX-7 Coupe
FCD = Fuel Cut defender (aftermarket- used only on Turbos with modifed exhaust and stock ECU)
FD = 3rd gen RX-7
FE = RX-8 (sometimes also called SE3P)
FI = Fuel Injection
FMIC = Front Mount Intercooler
GS = Sporty Model (in CAN)
GT = Sporty Model with Turbo
GT Limited = fully loaded every option turbo model.
GTU = Sporty model in 88, base model in 89-90 (in USA)
GTUs = Sporty model in 89-90 (in USA)
GX = Luxury Coupe model (in CAN)
GXL = Top line Luxury non turbo model
J-Spec = Japanese/NZ/AUS spec model
LIM = Lower Intake Manifold
LSD = Limited Slip Differential (sometimes incorrectly called Posi or Positraction which is GM's in-house brand name for their Limited Slip Differential)
MAF = Mass Air Flow sensor
MOP = Metering Oil Pump. Oil Metering Pump as called in the service manual. (also see OMP)
NA = 1st gen Miata
NA = Normally aspirated/ Non turbo
N/A = Normally aspirated/ Non turbo
NB = 2nd gen Miata
NC = 3rd gen Miata
OE = Original Equipment
OEM = Original Equipment Manufacture
OMP = Oil Metering pump
PD = Pulsation Dampener
PS = Power steering
PW = Power windows
SA = 1st gen RX-7 79-80 production
Savanna = The name the 1st and 2nd gen RX-7 was sold under in Japan.
SE = Base model in the USA in 87.5-88
Series 1 / S1 = 1979-1980 RX-7 models
Series 2 / S2 = 1981-1983 RX-7 models
Series 3 / S3 = 1984-1985 RX-7 models
Series 4 / S4 = 1986-1988 RX-7 models
Series 5 / S5 = 1989-1992 RX-7 models
Series 6 / S6 = 1992-1995 RX-7 models
Sport = 86-87 Sporty model (in USA also see GS)
TB = Throttle Body
TBM = Throttle body modification
TID = Turbo Intake Duct
TMIC = Top Mount InterCooler (factory style)
TPS = Throttle position sensor
TII = Turbo model (does not mean twin turbo)
T2 = Turbo model (does not mean twin turbo)
UIM = Upper Intake Manifold
VDI = Variable Dynamic Intake
WOT = Wide Open Throttle
6PI = 6 Port Induction the auxiliary ports, or the not so correct term - 5th/6th ports
13B = Normally aspirated/ Non turbo, 2 rotor, rotary engine.
13BT = Turbo charged, 2 rotor, rotary engine
13B-RE = J-spec Cosmo twin turbo, 2 rotor, rotary engine.
13B-REW = FD twin turbo, 2 rotor, rotary engine.
20B = J-spec Cosmo three rotor, rotary engine.

 

Awesome, thanks for the list. That helps a lot. I'm going to go check those things in a few minutes here. Will post my findings.

 

Okay, so I went out and took a bunch of pictures (hopefully their useful ones). I also found out it has a Afco Racing radiator.


I'm pretty sure the power steering was removed, could anyone confirm this?


Is that black cap the oil filler neck? It isn't labeled... ><


If you look closely, there is a wire attached to that bolt that isn't connected to anything.. What was it originally connected to?


This is the coolant, and there is like twice the coolant as it says there should be...





I also have no idea what nipples misterstyx69 is talking about..

P.S. The battery is dead, and so I couldn't actually figure out where the coolant is leaking.

 

Sorry for the double post, but the turbo is a T3/T4, not G3/G4 haha. Sorry, I got confused (which happens a lot).

 

I'm not trying to be mean.
From reading your posts I'd say your knowledge level is NOT where it needs to be for taking on a project like this. I suggest you take it to a local rotary shop, I think the user"Karack" is close to you and he still works on these. If you dont want to do that, then you need to make friends with a good mechanic and treat him well for helipng you out.

Also, check out the FAQ at the top of the 2nd gen section. Some of your questions will be answered there.

 

It's not that I disagree that my knowledge isn't much (more like anything) but I don't have money to take it to a shop. I don't even really have money to replace the broken stuff. I went to an autocross race today (my friend races her rx8) and they recommended I go to the place they get their rx8 worked on so I got their card. Karak is 8 hours from me, I already PM'd him about pricing for a possible rebuild; But it isn't exactly practical to take my car that far to get looked at. And the most complete list of mods I can get at the moment is now in my build thread. The guy who owned it before the guy I bought it from is trying to find the shop in NY he used to take it to, when it finds it I'm going to call and see if they have a list of mods. But mostly I want the shop so I can find the tuning setup, but anyways that's another thread.

Moving on - I did a little stuff today, I started the car and found that it isn't leaking coolant now, so I don't know what that was about. And I don't know if it over-heats (I've never tested it) but I did try and take videos of the smoke coming out (which smelled like gas but maybe the exhaust just smells like that, I've never been around another rx7). I also tried to record the sound that the engine made, basically it revs up to 1500rpm and then drops down to 1200rpm and it does it systematically. It also didn't start doing it until the engine temp gauge was about 1/4 (so I assume warmed up, I dunno what warmed up looks like on the car). Anyways, here are the videos:
The car has been sitting for quite a while (I assume), so maybe it's just clearing out the pipes? I know my 2-stroke motorcycle does this, and the smoke from my bike looks the same as this, so is it from the oil?

This is the video of how it sounds, at the end I walk over to the instrument cluster, so you can see for yourself the engine temp, revs, etc.

 

Your TPS is set wrong due to the Idle going up and down. Dont overheat that engine to hot. You will not beable to reuse the parts when you rebuild it. Its not a piston engine. These Suckers Warp like crazy when they overheat, Also check the VIN Code. make sure its a REAL 10th AE and not a fake one

 

Well I don't drive it, like I said I've never actually had it over heat. And I believe it only really over heated once on the guy who owned it before me (it started to over heat a second time, but I guess he turned it off right at that point cause that was right when he got it where it needed to be).

Anyways, thanks I'll research the TPS and try and figure out how to adjust it. Will that fix my over-heating? Any ideas on the tailpipe smoke?

 

Its either Burning coolent or Oil. if the coolent seals failed then it will overheat. Could be burning coolent or water. OR if its really burning oil the Oil control rings are bad also. Just rebuild the engine. save yourself alot of Guessing about what is happening to the engine..

 

Is rebuilding the engine my only real option? I mean, you can't replace that stuff without rebuilding it?

I would like to try and figure out what caused it to blow though, the car only has 50k on the odometer.

 

these are not piston cars. The only way to replace any Internal parts is to Open the engine. Rotary engines should not smoke or over heat. Pressure test the engine cooling system. If it leaks You have no choice but to crack it open. Engine smoking will not fix itsself. No stop smoke quick fix will help with a rotary engine. 50k on the car means nothing. If the car sat for a long time the seals could have gotten hard and old and broke. Rotary engines Dont like Sitting for a long time. They go bad ask anyone that knows about rotary engines

 

Fair enough. I've just been reading a lot of threads, and it seems the general consensus of the long time members (5-10+ years) is that these engines don't blow for no reason. However, sitting for a long time IS a reason. And I know that rubber will crack after a while (just take a rubber band for example). If that's the reason it's fine, I just don't wanna throw $1,300-$2000 at the engine to have it blow again.

 

The rebuild Kit is about 400-500 sometimes more depending on what you get. If the bearings are not all coppered out then i would reuse those. But if you want a good running engine for low cost you gotta do the work yourself.

You will want to check all parts and make sure no bearings are spun. or dammaged. Replace springs and oil control rings for sure on any rebuild.. But once you have the engine open. If you have the cash to replace most of the springs and apex seals and Other parts that go out most of the time it would be a good IDea. also check the oil cooler. Make sure it is not covered in dust. Over heated oil wears out Oil control O rings fast. then they just vanish into thin air

 

Well, I plan on tracking the car, so I'll just replace all of it cause I don't wanna end up breaking stuff more or having to do this again. I've looked at rebuild kits, and the only one I've really found was the Atkin's rebuild kit. I also asked about it in another thread, and this is the one that was recommended to me.

I'll be 100% honest, I have no idea what you meant when you said oil cooler >< I don't know if that's inside the engine, or what. Sorry, like I said, I pretty much don't know anything about any cars at all haha.

 

If you are going to track this car im not sure you understand what you are getting into. Why track a 10th AE? These cars are HIGH maintence cars. be prepared to be working on it all the time. The OIL cooler is in front of the radiator. Down low its about 12 inches long 6 inches tall.

 

Ah okay, got it. And yea, I know what they are. That's why all I'm doing it tracking it. It's not like it'll be very competitive, and even if it's high maintenance it's not really expensive. The car was cheap in the first place, and even after the rebuild I'm not that far into the car.

I don't mind putting time into the car either, I'm pretty dedicated at what I do, and I'm done doing what I used to do so I need something else to put my time into haha. I appreciate the help, and I'm doing my best to learn. The best way I know to learn is to just do it, that's how I learned computers, it took a long time but I'm now exceptional at them. As per it being a 10th AE, it was available. And it's not stock anyways, so it's kind of pointless trying to do that. Plus I'm sure it was tracked by at least one of the previous owners.

Like I said in my first post, I was told the car probably needed a rebuild before I bought it. I've been reading these forums for 2 months (I just got the car Friday), so I feel fairly confident that I know how much work will be required to keep the car running. Maybe not, I dunno, I'll have to wait and see. And the reason I don't have money right now is less than 6 months ago I bought my Nissan, then I broke my Nissan, then I bought this car, and now I'm moving out & going to Oregon. So all that equals I have no money ahaha.

Again, I really do appreciate the help. Hopefully I can keep up my end, and all your help isn't for not.