Minimum hookups to get spark?
#1
AutoX Donut Maker
Thread Starter
Minimum hookups to get spark?
I finally got my Turbo project spinning...
With the starter anyways. I'm seeing 3 positive strokes on the rear rotor and 2 on the front.
I would like to fire her up and try to get the side/corner/whatever seal to free up and give me solid compression on all 3 faces on the front.
Anyways, I have a minimal amount of electronics and other gadgets hooked up (I have a Megasquirt v2 that I plan to use, just haven't installed). These include:
1. Battery posi to fuses and posi to starter
2. Main ground to block (from battery)
3. Coils (both coils "plugged" in)
4. CAS
5. Plugs and Wires
Do I need to hook up the alternator to get spark? The water pump is not yet installed... (I have no plans to run the motor beyond a few quick startups using starting fluid, the fuel pump is currently disconnected).
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Josh
With the starter anyways. I'm seeing 3 positive strokes on the rear rotor and 2 on the front.
I would like to fire her up and try to get the side/corner/whatever seal to free up and give me solid compression on all 3 faces on the front.
Anyways, I have a minimal amount of electronics and other gadgets hooked up (I have a Megasquirt v2 that I plan to use, just haven't installed). These include:
1. Battery posi to fuses and posi to starter
2. Main ground to block (from battery)
3. Coils (both coils "plugged" in)
4. CAS
5. Plugs and Wires
Do I need to hook up the alternator to get spark? The water pump is not yet installed... (I have no plans to run the motor beyond a few quick startups using starting fluid, the fuel pump is currently disconnected).
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Josh
#4
AutoX Donut Maker
Thread Starter
So I finally found my digital meter and started taking Voltage readings...
All 4 connections (1 white connector) to CAS = ~12V
Both wires (B/Y, G/Y) to lead coil = ~.3V (when i turn the CAS, there is no voltage jump?) yes, that's 3 tenths. (all tested with key in ON position)
After doing some searching, I feel like the issue is a grounding issue at the ECU, . I will have to check the rest of it this evening.
Grounds connected:
Bat negative hooked up to long starter bolt on engine side.
also grounded to fender wall
Ground under UIM, grounded to UIM temporarily (Voltage tested good)
All fuses are good. (engine bay fuses all good, engine fuse in car good).
This is an S4 w/ NA harness btw.
I guess my question is: Is it almost 99% likely it's at the ECU or an issue with my harness based on the info above?
If so, I'll just order the DIYAutoTune harness and run new grounds and everything for the MS. Which means I'll have a Megasquirt S4 harness adapter available FS
Thanks,
Josh
All 4 connections (1 white connector) to CAS = ~12V
Both wires (B/Y, G/Y) to lead coil = ~.3V (when i turn the CAS, there is no voltage jump?) yes, that's 3 tenths. (all tested with key in ON position)
After doing some searching, I feel like the issue is a grounding issue at the ECU, . I will have to check the rest of it this evening.
Grounds connected:
Bat negative hooked up to long starter bolt on engine side.
also grounded to fender wall
Ground under UIM, grounded to UIM temporarily (Voltage tested good)
All fuses are good. (engine bay fuses all good, engine fuse in car good).
This is an S4 w/ NA harness btw.
I guess my question is: Is it almost 99% likely it's at the ECU or an issue with my harness based on the info above?
If so, I'll just order the DIYAutoTune harness and run new grounds and everything for the MS. Which means I'll have a Megasquirt S4 harness adapter available FS
Thanks,
Josh
#5
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
B/Y should have battery voltage w/key to on. G/Y would have no voltage and then spikes to 5 volts then back to zero. Is your main relay operating properly? The B/G wire at the engine fuse box (40 amp fuse) would have constant voltage so check this wire and respective fuse, and its voltage would be passed onto the B/Y wire w/key to on. Main relay might not be grounded properly. Two wire plug connected to it houses the B/W wire (15 amp engine fuse) which is to supply voltage to the relay when key is to on and the Black wire provides the ground which is found grounded to a metal adapter w/multiple ground wires located under the trailing coil. Also, spinning the CAS might be to quick for the multimeter to register a proper value so you could manually crank the main pulley and this will provide you with an accurate reading of what's going on with respect to the G/Y wire.
#6
AutoX Donut Maker
Thread Starter
Thanks, Satch.
I'm out of the office in 15. Plan to go out to the shop and sniff this out.
I might not even have the "main relay" hooked up. I gutted the entire engine bay before moving 2 years ago. Rebuilt the motor, then had to move. Lost ALOT of parts in the process =(.
I'm out of the office in 15. Plan to go out to the shop and sniff this out.
I might not even have the "main relay" hooked up. I gutted the entire engine bay before moving 2 years ago. Rebuilt the motor, then had to move. Lost ALOT of parts in the process =(.
#7
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Thanks, Satch.
I'm out of the office in 15. Plan to go out to the shop and sniff this out.
I might not even have the "main relay" hooked up. I gutted the entire engine bay before moving 2 years ago. Rebuilt the motor, then had to move. Lost ALOT of parts in the process =(.
I'm out of the office in 15. Plan to go out to the shop and sniff this out.
I might not even have the "main relay" hooked up. I gutted the entire engine bay before moving 2 years ago. Rebuilt the motor, then had to move. Lost ALOT of parts in the process =(.
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#9
AutoX Donut Maker
Thread Starter
It was totally the set of ground wires under the coil.
I painted over the "bracket/plug" when I did the engine bay. Just figured that loose plug as one of MANY.
Thanks alot, satch!
I painted over the "bracket/plug" when I did the engine bay. Just figured that loose plug as one of MANY.
Thanks alot, satch!
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