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I'm currently manual swapping my S5 vert according to the instructions in this thread HERE, The transmission is in and bolted to the engine but the shifter does not want to sit in the middle of the hole and I have to pry on it with a decent bit of force to get it to go into the center. Is the shifter supposed to sit offset? How much does the placement of the transmission matter as far as the driveshaft goes?
I'm currently manual swapping my S5 vert according to the instructions in this thread HERE, The transmission is in and bolted to the engine but the shifter does not want to sit in the middle of the hole and I have to pry on it with a decent bit of force to get it to go into the center. Is the shifter supposed to sit offset? How much does the placement of the transmission matter as far as the driveshaft goes?
I'm going to be doing s5 coupe manual swap soon. What trans mount did you use? Custom or a prefab one
It's mostly going to come down to the trans mount location. Loosen the motor mounts and trans mount hardware and wedge the shifter where you want it to go. tighten the bolts to hold it in place.
The Xcessive bracket is a nice piece. worked great on a swap we did recently and fixes the transmission alignment issue you're dealing with now.
the engine mounts also have offset studs, so its actually possible to install these so the engine is in the wrong place
(if memory serves the nub is at the top of the slot in the bracket?)
I loosened the engine mounts and centered the shifter with the transmission centering tool, and tightened everything down and it's right where it should be.
And Here's a picture of the brackets I made, the thread with the instructions said 1/4" bar but I had 1/2" bar so I doubt the steel will be a failure point
A little off topic but its still related to the swap. I installed the clutch master and slave cylinder today and I can't seem to get them to bleed. The master had a nice fountain in it when I bench bled it. After a while bleeding I pulled it apart to change the hose and no fluid came out of the hard line though there was some in the rubber line. I'm wondering if it's the adjustment of the pushrod inside. What am I supposed to adjust that to?
I’d investigate bleeding the clutch while varying the rod adjustment length. Recently ran into an issue on a different car where I had the adjusted the rod too far in one direction which didn’t allow fluid to enter or leave the master cylinder from the master cylinder reservoir.
and if that doesn’t work, I’d try vacuum or pressure bleeding.
That might be my problem, it’s like there’s no pressure when I let off the bleeder. I took that adjuster apart and cleaned it before I put it in so its probably part of my issue.
A little off topic but its still related to the swap. I installed the clutch master and slave cylinder today and I can't seem to get them to bleed. The master had a nice fountain in it when I bench bled it. After a while bleeding I pulled it apart to change the hose and no fluid came out of the hard line though there was some in the rubber line. I'm wondering if it's the adjustment of the pushrod inside. What am I supposed to adjust that to?
there needs to be a little free-play between the clutch master and the pushrod
I’ll have to mess around with it then, I tried to set it but there’s no resistance so I have a hard time figuring out when it’s contacting the piston.
i sit next to the car and then you can reach up there and feel it. as it loosens up it'll start wiggling side to side, and then have play in the front to rear direction
i sit next to the car and then you can reach up there and feel it. as it loosens up it'll start wiggling side to side, and then have play in the front to rear direction