MAF gear mod
04-04-12, 07:40 AM
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MAF gear mod
well my friend told me how I can get my car to run richer because at faster speeds it leans out....ALOT anyway he told me to just pop the cover off and move the gear counter clockwise 1 tooth any downfalls (besides mpg) to this?
04-04-12, 08:16 AM
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04-04-12, 09:21 AM
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Really depends on what you have done to the engine. I upgraded everything and fear that I am maxing out my maf, not to mention running super rich. I have have been thinking about adding tension to the spring also. Word to the wise, use fingernail polish and mark the gear before moving it and only move it a maximum of three teeth. Otherwise you will get lost and possibly never get it set properly.
04-04-12, 12:14 PM
#7
If you can afford an rtek, you can afford another afm, so just bite the bullet now.
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04-04-12, 12:17 PM
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1. before you play with the gear, take some touch up paint and mark where you start.
2. the AFM can be open 100% by 4500rpm depending on mods. so moving the spring isn't going to do much over 5000rpm.
2. the AFM can be open 100% by 4500rpm depending on mods. so moving the spring isn't going to do much over 5000rpm.
04-04-12, 01:08 PM
#10
Some info
From random website on 22re AFM:
"The AFM mod involves cutting the silicone seal on the black cover to gain access. Once inside, there's a "curly brace" looking metal clip in the upper left corner being held down by a Phillip's screw. Mark with nail polish or similar, the original position of at least one of the ends. Then, WHILE HOLDING THE LARGE GEAR WHEEL, loosen the screw allowing the metal clip to go slack. Turn the gear wheel clockwise to lean the running mixture, and counter-clockwise for richer. The idle mixture is largely unaffected by this adjustment. Do not adjust any more than 3 teeth in either direction with a stock system. Once you have the gear wheel where you want it, tighten the Phillip's screw again to make the metal clip hold the wheel in place. Supposedly, a stock system shouldn't need any adjustment, and won't benefit much from changes. It's a trade-off; leaner helps off-the-line, richer adds to the top-end."
"To control the movement of this flap/aramture, the AFM is fitted with a flat-wound spring that is used to apply tension to the flap. This spring is held in place, and adjusted, via a plastic gear and a wire "holder". When this gear is tightened (turned clockwise) relative to the flat wound spring inside of it, it becomes harder for the door to open, and this translates to a leaner mixture (more air needs to flow in to move the door by a given amount, meaning theat the mixture is leaner relative to its starting point before adjustment). Turning the gear counter-clockwise has just the opposite effect, as the looser gear lets more air in relative to "stock".
Remember:
Turning the gear CLOCKWISE LEANS OUT THE MIXTURE.
Turning the gear COUNTER-CLOCKWISE RICHENS THE MIXTURE
Generally speaking, each tooth of the gear is equal to about a 2% change in the transient mixture (with stock injectors)."
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7118909...7594284969847/
give it a shot...
From random website on 22re AFM:
"The AFM mod involves cutting the silicone seal on the black cover to gain access. Once inside, there's a "curly brace" looking metal clip in the upper left corner being held down by a Phillip's screw. Mark with nail polish or similar, the original position of at least one of the ends. Then, WHILE HOLDING THE LARGE GEAR WHEEL, loosen the screw allowing the metal clip to go slack. Turn the gear wheel clockwise to lean the running mixture, and counter-clockwise for richer. The idle mixture is largely unaffected by this adjustment. Do not adjust any more than 3 teeth in either direction with a stock system. Once you have the gear wheel where you want it, tighten the Phillip's screw again to make the metal clip hold the wheel in place. Supposedly, a stock system shouldn't need any adjustment, and won't benefit much from changes. It's a trade-off; leaner helps off-the-line, richer adds to the top-end."
"To control the movement of this flap/aramture, the AFM is fitted with a flat-wound spring that is used to apply tension to the flap. This spring is held in place, and adjusted, via a plastic gear and a wire "holder". When this gear is tightened (turned clockwise) relative to the flat wound spring inside of it, it becomes harder for the door to open, and this translates to a leaner mixture (more air needs to flow in to move the door by a given amount, meaning theat the mixture is leaner relative to its starting point before adjustment). Turning the gear counter-clockwise has just the opposite effect, as the looser gear lets more air in relative to "stock".
Remember:
Turning the gear CLOCKWISE LEANS OUT THE MIXTURE.
Turning the gear COUNTER-CLOCKWISE RICHENS THE MIXTURE
Generally speaking, each tooth of the gear is equal to about a 2% change in the transient mixture (with stock injectors)."
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7118909...7594284969847/
give it a shot...
04-04-12, 01:20 PM
#11
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we have found the AFM specs, and there is a thread, actually.
04-05-12, 12:10 AM
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Some info
From random website on 22re AFM:
"The AFM mod involves cutting the silicone seal on the black cover to gain access. Once inside, there's a "curly brace" looking metal clip in the upper left corner being held down by a Phillip's screw. Mark with nail polish or similar, the original position of at least one of the ends. Then, WHILE HOLDING THE LARGE GEAR WHEEL, loosen the screw allowing the metal clip to go slack. Turn the gear wheel clockwise to lean the running mixture, and counter-clockwise for richer. The idle mixture is largely unaffected by this adjustment. Do not adjust any more than 3 teeth in either direction with a stock system. Once you have the gear wheel where you want it, tighten the Phillip's screw again to make the metal clip hold the wheel in place. Supposedly, a stock system shouldn't need any adjustment, and won't benefit much from changes. It's a trade-off; leaner helps off-the-line, richer adds to the top-end."
"To control the movement of this flap/aramture, the AFM is fitted with a flat-wound spring that is used to apply tension to the flap. This spring is held in place, and adjusted, via a plastic gear and a wire "holder". When this gear is tightened (turned clockwise) relative to the flat wound spring inside of it, it becomes harder for the door to open, and this translates to a leaner mixture (more air needs to flow in to move the door by a given amount, meaning theat the mixture is leaner relative to its starting point before adjustment). Turning the gear counter-clockwise has just the opposite effect, as the looser gear lets more air in relative to "stock".
Remember:
Turning the gear CLOCKWISE LEANS OUT THE MIXTURE.
Turning the gear COUNTER-CLOCKWISE RICHENS THE MIXTURE
Generally speaking, each tooth of the gear is equal to about a 2% change in the transient mixture (with stock injectors)."
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7118909...7594284969847/
give it a shot...
From random website on 22re AFM:
"The AFM mod involves cutting the silicone seal on the black cover to gain access. Once inside, there's a "curly brace" looking metal clip in the upper left corner being held down by a Phillip's screw. Mark with nail polish or similar, the original position of at least one of the ends. Then, WHILE HOLDING THE LARGE GEAR WHEEL, loosen the screw allowing the metal clip to go slack. Turn the gear wheel clockwise to lean the running mixture, and counter-clockwise for richer. The idle mixture is largely unaffected by this adjustment. Do not adjust any more than 3 teeth in either direction with a stock system. Once you have the gear wheel where you want it, tighten the Phillip's screw again to make the metal clip hold the wheel in place. Supposedly, a stock system shouldn't need any adjustment, and won't benefit much from changes. It's a trade-off; leaner helps off-the-line, richer adds to the top-end."
"To control the movement of this flap/aramture, the AFM is fitted with a flat-wound spring that is used to apply tension to the flap. This spring is held in place, and adjusted, via a plastic gear and a wire "holder". When this gear is tightened (turned clockwise) relative to the flat wound spring inside of it, it becomes harder for the door to open, and this translates to a leaner mixture (more air needs to flow in to move the door by a given amount, meaning theat the mixture is leaner relative to its starting point before adjustment). Turning the gear counter-clockwise has just the opposite effect, as the looser gear lets more air in relative to "stock".
Remember:
Turning the gear CLOCKWISE LEANS OUT THE MIXTURE.
Turning the gear COUNTER-CLOCKWISE RICHENS THE MIXTURE
Generally speaking, each tooth of the gear is equal to about a 2% change in the transient mixture (with stock injectors)."
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7118909...7594284969847/
give it a shot...
04-05-12, 01:19 PM
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i wouldn't call that rich!
to the second part, yes the injectors are probably only seeing mid 60's duty cycle.
the S5's are mapped differently....
04-05-12, 10:04 PM
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i put a wideband on a totally stock original low mileage 87, and i was surprised, AFR's under 3800rpm@wot are about 14.4, it richens up to 12.2@4000, then leans out again to 12.8@6000 and then goes rich after that.
i wouldn't call that rich!
to the second part, yes the injectors are probably only seeing mid 60's duty cycle.
the S5's are mapped differently....
i wouldn't call that rich!
to the second part, yes the injectors are probably only seeing mid 60's duty cycle.
the S5's are mapped differently....
Oh yeah to people saying depending on mods I have full rb exhaust to some pos mufflers(DC Fart Cans) with light weight flywheel(other mods are for suspension so useless here)
04-06-12, 12:07 PM
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