well my friend told me how I can get my car to run richer because at faster speeds it leans out....ALOT anyway he told me to just pop the cover off and move the gear counter clockwise 1 tooth any downfalls (besides mpg) to this?

 

why? if it aint broke, dont fix it... how about a real tune/wideband?

 

but it is broke the inside of my MAF is rigged together so the car will start...lol I will be getting a new one once I order my rtek

 

this richens up the entire power band. upgrade to a new ecu to solve this problem

 

Really depends on what you have done to the engine. I upgraded everything and fear that I am maxing out my maf, not to mention running super rich. I have have been thinking about adding tension to the spring also. Word to the wise, use fingernail polish and mark the gear before moving it and only move it a maximum of three teeth. Otherwise you will get lost and possibly never get it set properly.

 

i personally would not try this. if you want more power start with a racing beat headder, work your way up from there. the coolest rx-7 is one that runs.

 

If you're trying to reset it to stock because it's already been tampered with, then it's different story from messing with a perfectly good one. Does it check out per the FSM spec's?

If you can afford an rtek, you can afford another afm, so just bite the bullet now.

 

1. before you play with the gear, take some touch up paint and mark where you start.

2. the AFM can be open 100% by 4500rpm depending on mods. so moving the spring isn't going to do much over 5000rpm.

 

I know 'depending on mods' can be a pretty big range, but having the same amount of fuel from 5krpm and at redline seems like a sketchy fuel strategy. Even for cocaine-riddled, mid 80's EFI math.

 

Some info

From random website on 22re AFM:
"The AFM mod involves cutting the silicone seal on the black cover to gain access. Once inside, there's a "curly brace" looking metal clip in the upper left corner being held down by a Phillip's screw. Mark with nail polish or similar, the original position of at least one of the ends. Then, WHILE HOLDING THE LARGE GEAR WHEEL, loosen the screw allowing the metal clip to go slack. Turn the gear wheel clockwise to lean the running mixture, and counter-clockwise for richer. The idle mixture is largely unaffected by this adjustment. Do not adjust any more than 3 teeth in either direction with a stock system. Once you have the gear wheel where you want it, tighten the Phillip's screw again to make the metal clip hold the wheel in place. Supposedly, a stock system shouldn't need any adjustment, and won't benefit much from changes. It's a trade-off; leaner helps off-the-line, richer adds to the top-end."

"To control the movement of this flap/aramture, the AFM is fitted with a flat-wound spring that is used to apply tension to the flap. This spring is held in place, and adjusted, via a plastic gear and a wire "holder". When this gear is tightened (turned clockwise) relative to the flat wound spring inside of it, it becomes harder for the door to open, and this translates to a leaner mixture (more air needs to flow in to move the door by a given amount, meaning theat the mixture is leaner relative to its starting point before adjustment). Turning the gear counter-clockwise has just the opposite effect, as the looser gear lets more air in relative to "stock".

Remember:
Turning the gear CLOCKWISE LEANS OUT THE MIXTURE.
Turning the gear COUNTER-CLOCKWISE RICHENS THE MIXTURE

Generally speaking, each tooth of the gear is equal to about a 2% change in the transient mixture (with stock injectors)."

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7118909...7594284969847/

give it a shot...

 

well the calculation is RPM vs airflow, so airflow can be 100%, but fuel will still go up with RPM, although basically the AFM is only sized to read up to so much airflow.

we have found the AFM specs, and there is a thread, actually.

 

it's been done.. hope you're using a wideband to check the AFrs before and after.

 

I've never seen a N/A FC run lean. The stock injectors are already overkill.

 

you havent seen enough of them then.

 

That is the writeup I learned this trick from in the 90's on my Celica GT-S. Like I said, mark your OEM setting and go from there. Three teeth made a 15mph difference on my top end with more fuel but killed the bottom end and vice versa. If your cover, the black quandrant on top look like someone cut the silicon seal and tampered with it you may want to go get a wideband. But you can tell a little by sniffing the tail pipe and driving the car as to where the spring is set. i.e. **** poor low rpm power = rich mixture so relive spring tension. Rocking ***** low end power that drops off in the top end add spring tension until you find a balance.

 

i put a wideband on a totally stock original low mileage 87, and i was surprised, AFR's under 3800rpm@wot are about 14.4, it richens up to 12.2@4000, then leans out again to 12.8@6000 and then goes rich after that.

i wouldn't call that rich!

to the second part, yes the injectors are probably only seeing mid 60's duty cycle.

the S5's are mapped differently....

 

I have a single band A/F gauge right now but have a wideband o2 in the garage just need a gauge, But I would hit topend in 4th and it would go completely lean I moved the gear 1 tooth and noticed a top end difference and it doesn't lean out

Oh yeah to people saying depending on mods I have full rb exhaust to some pos mufflers(DC Fart Cans) with light weight flywheel(other mods are for suspension so useless here)

 

you mean "narrow band". you may want to put that wideband in before you go ******* with this too much

 

Only problem is I have no idea what kind of wideband it is..do all the plugs match or no?

 

post a pic

 

here it is: