the temp gauge on the inside on the car i looked before and after... i went for a drive soon before rerouting the intake the way i had it before then i went for a drive after... i had it hooked up before with 2 cold air tubes coming to it but at idel the temp went back to normal and it fluxed a bit... so i moved the intake down there... i had to cut a small bit of metal right beside the radiator to make it down behind the front grill... there is no restriction to the rad.... to does not get wet.... and it sounds sweet!!!

 

let me know if anyone trys it i would like to hear otehrs results...

 

anybody else try it?

 

Ok where is that connected to now? I didn't understand your explination above...
Is there a filter under there? or is that just dryer tube attached to your intake system? What is that metal thingy attached to the dryer hose? (pardon my newbness and indulge me a few questions)

Is that duct tape? heh...

 

Too bad thats coolant and not air intake temp.

 

I was sort of chuckling throughout this thread, but when I read this, I busted up! Hee Hee

Unfortunately the temp gauge reads coolant temperatures, not air intake temps, and even if it "could" read air intake temps, I wouldn't trust it very far. Probably the most inaccurate gauge on the car, save for the stock boost gauge if you've got one of those TII thinga-ma-jigs.

Steve

 

well even if it just coolant.. my engine temps are way down... i used duct tape tempararely but now its a bit better looking i used the adapter from the intake and left that where it is and put the 3" ducting on that with metal clamp... ran the hose down behind the grill put a metal ring inside the connection on the filter, put the ducting over the filter where it used to connect to the adapter.... and used a special metal tightening ring thing to secure the pipe to the intake...

 

OK I checked a bit more to see if I could do something like this (and something similar to the setup I had on my Civic), and here's what can be done:

looking at the filter box/afm/cone filter from the top, looking just to the right and way down to the shield, there is a hole between the radiator and the right fender/wheel well, which is -usually- covered by plastic foam. If you remove this bit of foam, then the hole which is exposed is sort of a rectangular, with an effective side of about 5-6cm, so its area is about 25 cm2 (or an effective circle area of a radius of 3cm). So you -and I- can get 3cm dryer hose (about 1,5"-2") and squeeze it through there. The lower part of the hose placed properly will face the front of the car, and is directly behind the left opening of the stock front bumber. With a bit of zip tie, you can make the other end of the hose face exactly towards the filter Instant cold air for the filter at any speeds

 

ok ummmm.... no they arent. that is just a fluke, your intake temps will not reduce your coolant temps... you will see it go to normal the more you drive it.

that is a good job/idea trying to get more cool air but DIZAMN that thing is GHETTO!!!


Justin

 

Ghetto ? hhhmmmmmm, maybe, but man you should see -and feel- my K&N cone filter when I did some 0-100kph runs the other night. I couldnt even touch the filter It almost left red marks on my hand

I think that, especially for the turbo Rexes (TIIs and FDs) managing to get as cold air as possible to the filters is absolutely essential. So any CAI, cold-air box, tubes, openings in the bumper etc etc should be at least tried to see if they help

My "mod" is almost free (what, 2 bucks or something), and I think that combined with a cold-box and the stock intake elbow that goes to the front of the car should help quite a bit. Add my "mod" to the cold-box from FC3S.org and you'll see what I mean !!!

 

so........to sum it up, how do you run a ram air line???

 

Check my previous post with the description. Its a bit hard to explain, but if you follow the steps, you'll see what I mean. There are no other "passages" open when in stock form (and of course if you dont want to drill any holes yourself). The two side openings on the stock bumper can be used for cooling the front brakes (but dont have access to the intake).

 

You my friend are a frickin' genius!
You're absolutely right. Especially on a turbo car, intake temp is so important. I high intake temp will see your engine much closer to detonation than is safe, as well as losing power. In a classic case of not practising what I preach, my pod filter still has no heat shield! (I know, I'm working on it!). I have a dash mounted indoor/outdoor digital temp gauge with it's outdoor sensor stuck to the front of the filter. In normal driving, temps over 40degC (104degF) are common, in slow traffic it exceeds 60degC (140degF))! That's way too high and if your exposed filter has no shield it'll be the same. Anything that can lower intake temp is good, no matter how dodgy it looks. Mine will look a little better though...

 

Thanks

Well, of course there is the "other side of things", with people claiming that, no matter how hot the intake air is, its still way colder than when its compressed by the turbo, and the IC will cool it down sufficiently for the combustion cycle.
What I have to say to that is: a) the colder the better in any case, b) these couple of mods cost next to nothing, so what harm can they do to your pocket ?, c) because the turbo increases temperatures IN PROPORTION and not in absolute numbers, decreasing 5 or 10 degrees Celcius the intake charge will VASTLY decrease the temperatures after the compression by the turbo.

For example, lets say that the turbo increases its pressure 100% (1bar over atmospheric). That means that its temperature will also increase 100% (P*V=n*R*T, so if Pb=Pa*2 => Tb=Ta*2). Lets also say that the IC manages (somehow ) to decrease the temperature of the compressed air by 50%. So Tc=Tb/2=Ta*2/2=Ta (yeah, like this could happen). So if you decrease the temperature of the intake air by 10-11 degrees C, you will effectively decreasing the temperature of the mixture by as much (or as the proportionate ratio after the IC). I dont remember where I saw it, but I do remember that 10-11 degrees C decrease means a 10% increase in performance in internal combustion engines

The above of course is a very vague and inaccurate generalization, but this is actually how it all goes. So to sum it up, the TID and the above cold-box and hose mods, although they cost next to nothing, could give you significant increase in horsepower, reduce temperatures inside the engine, and help prolong your rotary's life. What more do you need ?