I have a 2 step boost controller. I run 8 psi all the time and kick it up when I'm bored. I wouldn't use 16 psi all the time.

 

Ok I would just be careful with 16 PSI without race gas or water injection.

 

Is your standalone dialed in pretty good now nick? What kind of AFR are you running?

BTW did you ever get those Bride seats?

ed

 

Eh my car is running horribly rich..there's a few issues that need to be run. I'm not sure what my exact AFR are..sold the hand controller and am waiting to get my laptop and that's not even that accurate. I never bought an 02 sensor either
No I didn't get the Bride seats and it sucks. He ended up selling the whole car. I'm still in the market for some really good quality adjustable racing seats...just can't seem to find some. My Netamis are alright, but I want something a bit better.
Water injection I'll be getting in the far future since I need a lot done to my car still and am saving for a bike.

EDIT: Oh on my way home today I did a 3rd gear pull on 99...It holds 14-15 psi (wasn't concentrating on the guage that well) and around 6000 rpms+ it falls off to 11. Looks like I will need that bigger spring after all?

-It seems that I can tighten the wastegate actuator and all it will do is increase my PEAK boost. Looks like I have the same problem as you.

 

I run a few of those BOV/bypass valves in my RX7's. Have yet to have a problem with the quality or the valves wearing out over time. HKS usually colors the spring bolt to dictate spring pressure. I have always used a red spring and never had problems of it seaping air or compressor surge. I have ran up to 20 psi on it and never gave me any problems. I trust it.

Bryan@BNR
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Can anyone confirm that when you pressurize your intake system it holds air? Someone told me that maybe the boost leak by the TB elbow I am experiencing when I cap the air filter and pressurize the system might be from the injector bleed and it is supposed to be like that. I pressurized everything before the TB/mainfold and it holds air tight (intake/FMIC system)

Anyone pressurized the system with a compressor and had it hold air with no leaks at all?

ed

 

Yeah, mine held air for the most part. It is going to bleed away slowly because air can get past the TB because the primarry should be cracked open slightly. It has to be that way to allow the engine to idle.

When I took my air squirter out of the TID I could hear the air rush back out.

However, with teh TB plates closed your not gonna pressurize past that. So, that means if it is an injector leaking it will not show up.

However, if you plug up your tail pipes real tight...I bet you could pressurize the whole damn thing

James

 

I can feel air with my finger seeping out right where the TB and TB elbow meet on the back side (firewall side). Do you get air coming out at that spot when you pressurize the system?

ed

 

Uh..there shouldn't be any kind of leak in that area. Fix it! Or..shall I say...smear some RTV on it.

 

I used a brand new o-ring from mazda and RTV grey glue when putting the TB elbow on. So I don't know where the leak could be from. Thats why I asked. It's not quite as easy as smearing some rtv on.

 

i had the same problem i thought it was the turbo but then i said i would start from scratch i replced the bov took the plenum of seeled it with copper rtv i cleaned the hoes witch connected to the intercooler but then i found the little hose witch is connected to the turbo then to that short pipe witch connects the bov wasnt connected properly so i had a vacum problem i jumped in the car 15 psi is now back it was not the turbo all i could suggest take every hose what is to do with the turbo and clean them then replace them back on and see what happens .....my 2 cents