edomund

Read the sig for my mods. BNR low boost it's not the BOV or wastegate.

I called Bryan from BNR last week and he thought my BOV might be leaking or I needed to add an external spring to my wastegate to get my boost above the 10PSI I was seeing.

So I did what he suggested, screw the set screw all the way down on the BOV (temporarily to test it) so it wouldn't open at all. I did it and then took a test run and boom 15 PSI quick spool and solid to redline. I thought wow that's it and started to search for a BOV solution.

Well I went out and screwed the BOV down again just to make sure that was it one more time before I bought another BOV and this time boost was back down at 9 PSI. I pulled the BOV to check it and you cant even barely move it with your hand so it not leaking and that was not the problem after all

Next I added an external spring to my wastegate actuator thinking my wastegate was opening before I want and bleeding off boost (twin scroll is removed already and I have a 35MM wastegate port). I added a spring and checked to make sure the wastegate arm was pulling the wastegate closed at rest (it was)
Then I took a test run and no change 9 PSI! So I pulled the vaccum hose off the wastegate and capped the turbo nipple going to the wastegate actuator.

Am I correct assuming that if there is no hose going to the actuator thus it sees no pressure and should stay closed?

Any suggestions I am out of ideas. How could I see 15PSI and now when it hits 9 it stays at 9.

thanks in advance
ed

turbine

iTrader: (1)

take a closer look at the wastegate
i have heard that the wastgate can blow open some how. the solution is to put in a heavier spring.
talk to J RAT
i have a bnr but i dont have any issues. although i had to use a boost controler to get any thing above 6 psi

edomund

Did you read the post?
I put a external spring on the wastegate actuator, maybe it isn't a strong enough spring.

I was just looking at the FSM at the diagram showing the air flow path of the turbo system. I guess even with no vaccum hose connected to the WG actuator it can still blow open with enough pressure from inside the system (hence the need for a stiffer spring).

This would explain why my MBC (even with it completely closed allowing no air through to the WG actuator) did not allow boost over 9PSI.

Any other ideas?

turbine

iTrader: (1)

yes i read your entire post.

you can try to test the waste gate and see if it is opening under load by smeering some grease on the waste gate rod. disablethe vac line to the wastgate. go for a ride, boost, then look to see if the grease has been disturbed.

edomund

I didn't mean to come off rude, sorry

Thats a good idea with the grease though I'll try that.
I guess if I do that grease test and the WG is staying closed I have a leak somewhere.

ed

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

here is everything you can do to help out.

1. turn buckle on the wg actuator arm

2. drilled hole closer to the wg actuator

3. external spring.

Here is a pic.......



if you still don't get enough boost then you may want to check for boost leaks? Or you may want to look at that first.

Wankel7

Yeah, with no boost line going to the WG your turbo should spool like a raped ape.

Also, like the honda lover said...check for boost leaks.

Get a rubber cap you would find at home depot. Slip that over your TID and put a hole in it. Take an air compressor line and pressurize your intake to 20 or so psi.

You will hear hissing if there is a leak.

James

edomund

Hondahater I already added a spring just like you have. Bryan@BNR actually pointed me towards that picture for referance.

wankel7 I will try pressurizing my system to look for a boost leak. Since I had the line off the WG I am pretty sure it's staying closed. So I am right to assume with the line off the WG actuator it is supposed to stay closed no matter boost pressure. It can't be opened from pressure inside the turbo manifold.

thanks for the ideas guys.

ed

Wankel7

^^^

Yeah, UNLESS the exhaust is blowing open the door. But since you have added a spring I doubt that is happening.

Doing the leak check with the car off is a GREAT way to check for those annoying boost/vacuum leaks.

James

edomund

So the exhaust could blow open the WG door. I was looking at the FSM diagram of the turbo system air flow and wondering that.

I guess I need to do the grease test 1st to eliminate a WG door opening problem and then move from there.

ed

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

my best guess is something popped off during the 15PSI run, check all your vacuum caps, block off plates and IC hoses to be sure they are all secure.

yes, disconnecting and plugging the wastegate line will force the turbo into full boost, but of course this is not always a safe method of testing the turbo or the engine management setup.

edomund

Thanks karack,

Thats what I was thinking also. The 15PSI run must have popped something off under the UIM beacause I can't see anything popped off.

I will be careful testing it with the WG closed and keep an eye on the boost and AFR.

ed

Bryan@BNR

iTrader: (1)

Hey Ed.

You need to ditch that Blitz BOV. take it completely off the car and make a block off plate for it. make sure you seal it up well when you block it off. Run it with no BOV, but don't run it very hard with it off. It will compressor surge between shifts and it is hard on the thrust bearing. It will be fine a few times, but don't make it a habbit. Put you a good BOV on there and like everyone said, check for boost leaks. Check all couplers, vac lines and make sure the clamps are tight. The turbo is working, but something is causing it lose boost, either boost leak or actuator blowing open. If you want an adjustable actuator arm, just take the actuator off the turbo and send it to me. You don't even have to remove the turbo...

Bryan@BNR
205 640 1193

Jager

iTrader: (10)

Hondahater has girly hands.

Cosmo_TT

iTrader: (11)

or like a 3 year old lol

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

hahah, I wish! It would make it alot easier to get to some of the places on this damn wankel engine

edomund

Thanks Bryan.

BTW Just wanted to let everyone know that it is not a problem with the turbo. I knew that from the begining I thought it was a WG problem not a turbo problem. The BNR turbo hasn't given me any problems and Bryan's customer service is second to none.

edomund

Pressurized my intake and I did find a vacuum/boost leak, vaccum cap came off. I fixed it and then repeated the process. This time I found my TB to TB elbow is leaking air. I ordered a new o-ring from Mazda ($20).

Anyone experienced a leak in this area? The guy at Mazda acted like I was crazy for ordering that part, said in 15 years he has never sold that o-ring.

ed

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

Jerry is a freaking tool, that guy is so wacky. i called him today and introduced myself and he said "rotary shop eh? never knew we had one here..." i've gone in there numerous times and only ordered parts for all generation 7s but he didn't know we had a rotary shop... lol. anyways, i then asked him about a price for an RX8 exhaust system and he gave me a price of $1200 for the muffler at that point we quit the pricing for exhaust and i mentioned fabbing one up, he made some BS comment about modifying the emissions to non OEM being the modifiers responsibility for 15 years and anything non dealer is non OEM blah blah.

and according to him a stock 2nd gen will do 224MPH with just a chip to eliminate the "revv limiter"

he is such an idiot.

Cosmo_TT

iTrader: (11)

oh my god that jerry guy from wheeler is such a jack *** and know nothing he makes me laugh talking like he knows everything there is to know about rotary or 7's

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

yeah he's a dumbass, i tried talking to him about supplying any rotary motors they may need but obviously he wasn't listening.

Wankel7

Mazda competition! And you guys live so close to the warehouse in CA

Glad you found some leaks...hopefully that will help a lil bit.

James

edomund

Thanks wanlkel7 me too. Just waiting on that o-ring (special order) they dont stock anything for our cars.

Yeah Karack and cosmo Jerry does talk out of his *** like he is an expert. He told me I didn't need that o-ring because there were all these rotary shops in town doing serious work and have never bought that o-ring. He acted like he new all about your shop like he new you for years. I said oh Ben's shop and he said uhh yeah Ben is ONE of them. I thought who else has a rotary shop liar. I told him my o-ring was completely flat from being on the car 20 years and wasn't sealing anymore. He said Yeah it's supposed to be flat. I just ignored that.

edomund

wankel7 I hope it will help as well. I got fed up with searching for vacuum leaks and went all out and ripped off the UIM yesterday and got rid of the vacuum spider and all the TB coolant stuff for the thermo valve.

Now I know it's not anything under the UIM because there are only 2 vacuum lines now under there (brand new at that)

edomund

Trying to decide which BOV to go with.

Any suggestions for one that will not leak (15PSI application) and reduce compressor surge.
I realize that there are trade-offs with BOV's

BTW Bryan@BNR suggested the old HKS racing BOV. But I forgot to ask if it was so stiff it was hard to blow off or not.
ed