nycgps

iTrader: (4)

Hello fellas.

my FC's body needs some work ... actually LOTs of work.

Looking for a good sander right now to remove/strip the paint and bring it to a smooth finish for primer. Will this do ?

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...1217000P?mv=rr

or this

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...3&blockType=L3

as for paint, I was gonna use Duplicolor, but no store has the Stock color (Crystal White), any idea where to get the factory color spray paint? it doesn't have to be Duplicolor.

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

really? go to carquest . and an orbital sander is what you want , how much body work have you done before?what price range are you looking at?prep work=finish work, the body is one thing you dont wanna f up

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

never did any body work before, trying to learn

price is not really an issue ... but of course trying to save every single penny that I can.

I list 2 Random Orbital sander. one cost more cuz it has dust bag and other has none and a weaker motor.

I asked a local body shop they said that to do a repaint the body "around" the car, meaning no hood. , just the doors, ,front and rear bumper. will cost 1800-2K. I almost got an heart attack.

I know most of them will be labor. paint is cheap, tools are cheap (compare to 1.8K). Labor? I have lots of spare time. might as well do it myself.

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

What?? Did you tell them you want the WHOLE car painted?? a good paint job isnt cheap and a cheap one has bad results , best thing on the market is acid , dont remeber what type but it is special . apply paint and primer bye bye, re prime(after fixing rust) then fill the lows . then prime , then wet sand then paint. then compound wax or buff then polish. eurathanes are expensive hard to work with , but without struggle there is no progress , and it always looks wet

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

Nope, the price is "just" for "around the car", purely exterior (doors, front and rear bumper). not even including hood and roof. nothing interior too (meaning they won't even touch the "inside" part of the hood"

and this shop is not even some "random" shop. I used to come here all the time, (the time when I thought changing engine oil is an art, now its some piece of cake crap)

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

it is a hard job to give a quote , especially not seeing the body but yah a proper full paint job with no runs and minimal orange peel on a good body would be around 3-5k , like you said mostly labor there is so much prep work to be done, if not you will see every patch low or filled in spot and as stated in aaron cakes write up on what to look for in an fc , the fc lines are very supple , not easily replicated

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

I have tons of free time + I love my cars so much

so ...

Im prepared to start from scratch and learn. (and save a few grand. haha)

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

well best of luck to you, make sure your in a dust free environment or you will be surprised how much stuff gets stuck or floats onto the paint.keep reciept on sander it might die on you,id go with the second one if you dont have a compressor

-Crash-

If you are going to paint your car, do it right.

First buy an air compressor, your going to want one with a large tank, this helps with the hours of sanding your do with a random orbit sander.

Second buy a random orbital sander and sanding disks (there sticky on one side).

Therd you'll need a gravity feed HVLP gun (high pressure low volume) DO NOT use a spary can, you WILL get lines in your paint job just like coloring with a marker!

Fourth you'll need sanding blocks ranging from 4" to 12" maybe even 18", what this does is helps you get the nice straight lines in the body. If you try and sand a door with a small 6" block or an obital you will have high and low spots that will be very visable after the car is done.

Those are just some of the basic tools you will need to do this, there is alot more tools that you will need but i'm not going to spend all day wrighting. Just to give you a heads up repainting a car is NOT easy, there is a reason they want so much to paint it.

-Crash-

Oh and a few other things, do tons of research, there is a lot of technique that goes into sanding and sparying with a gun. I'm telling your right now that you are not ready for this.

LOL and telling this dude to go to car quest is retarded, that place is so expensive, i'd never buy anything from there.

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

actually to you it might be expensive but they have tons of paint , i re-iterate tons. making it easier to find the paint he wants . sanding blocks?haha , wow this isnt drywall if you sand a curvy supply line with a block , thats what you get , square lines . dont hack it get plenty of wetsand in stages 400 600 1000. btw sorry you get screwed there i havent but thats due to working at shops i would guess.

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

Thx for the input.

I do have air compressor, but its a small *** one like 2 gallons.

planning to get a brand new compressor from a more reliable brand like Campbell. with 25-35 gallon tank. still looking right now

Hmm HVLP gun ... I will look into that.

I already have all the sand papers from 300-1500.

Thx for the advise !

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

got any rust?

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

Well, just the usual spot like by the fender, and at the corner of the rear bumper

the body itself looks fine, I lift the carpet up and all areas seem fine.

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

I was just wondrin cuz on my explorer i found a great solution , better than undercoating.

I took a wire wheel on a drill and cleaned it till the actual metal could be seen(not totally but reasonably.)

Then i took an acid metal prep (Dupont 244S) and washed it down(no cutting.)I let that flash for ten minutes(only a small area at a time.)

I then put 2 qts POR15 and applied it in a medium amount(not thin and not so heavey as to cause runs.) It is basically self leveling and is something other than paint,great stuff , shiny and rocks dont chip if applied properly. You will have to top coat any areas exposed to uv rays or it will fail. Basically just sand , prime , fill , prime and paint rust shouldnt come back a long time , POR claims 25 year life expectancy with their method .

-Crash-

I'm not sure where you got drywall from but anyhow this is what im talking about.

sanding block kit: (these sanding blocks flex, there not just for square areas)
http://www.eastwood.com/7-piece-sanding-block-kit.html

HVLP guns: (yea there harbor fraight but i've used them and they are quite good)
http://www.harborfreight.com/profess...kit-94572.html

EDIT, found a better vid

a vid on sanding blocks.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUjmqdoqxL4

-Crash-

Another thing, google primer guide coat, it helps a lot.

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

have fun

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

Doing that right now. Thx !

MadScience_7

Blocking is key. When I got my car painted, we didn't block sand the whole car and now all the little dents and high spots that weren't even visible before are practically highlighted. Especially on the hood and the doors.

-Crash-

I found that out the hard way too lol, its because the car is so dull before, you really don't see all the small stuff. Then after the car has new clear on it, it highlights all those small dings.

bostonspgs

iTrader: (1)

experiment on some thing of low value first, like a lawn mower or something similar

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

I have a broken Mazdaspeed bumper to try things out.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Take your time. Don't use duplicolor primer or rattle can primer. If you do, you will be stuck with duplicolor or rattle can paint forever. The solvents in real automotive paint will cause the rattle can and duplicolor primers to lift and crinkle. Use professional paint.

You can buy pro paint at a local English Color dealer. Look in the phone book. You can also buy pro paint from summit racing.

I have painted cars with pro paint and I have painted cars with Rustoleum, all sprayed through my HPLP guns.

Good Luck

nycgps

iTrader: (4)

Ok !

Oh yes I forgot about Rustoleum. Hmm. *added to the list*

Pro paint *added*

Thx !