lolcat's clusterpoopoo with lots of pictures (needs help)
11-13-11, 02:21 PM
#1
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lolcat's clusterpoopoo with lots of pictures (needs help)
Lolcat bought a 87 Turbo FC recently, and the engine bay is clusterfucked.
Lolcat needs help identify these clusterfucked wire and vacume line.
Lolcat also needs help on troubleshooting some of the problems.
Background
- 87 Turbo II
- Racing beat Rev II complete system from downpipe to exhaust
- Ported wastegate
- emission block off
- Removed A/C
- No powersteering
- Ebay cone filter
- Custom fuel pump wire with switch
Problems
- Car starts then dies after about 3 seconds, and backfires. If I step on throttle the car will die right away.
(Before this happened, I was revving the engine on and off in neutral with quite a bit of gas, and then all of sudden the car starts to slowly drop idle and eventually died)
- Car boggles whenever I step hard on the throttle, but revs fine if step gentle in every gear, even in neutral
- Right after the car turns off, I can hear a small leaking noise from engine bay near the brake booster.
- Clicking sound coming from turbo
- Compressor surge on a stock turbo with stock intercooler and piping.
- Cooling fan turns on whenever the key is at ON position, regardless of engine temperature.
- Oil pressure gauge is not responding
- The OEM alarm goes off whenever I unlock the car with key, but doesn't go off whenever I unlock the car with hand from inside.
- Dummy lights does not turn on when the key is at ON position, however part of dummy light works when it's needed, such as hatch open, low fuel, cooling fan and clock, the rest of light does not turn on.
- Door light does not turn on when the door opens, as well as the interior light.
Work done by myself
- checked MAF connection, all electrical and vacume hose is connected
- checked MAF, the flapper door seem to be functioning properly
- checked vacume line, they are either plugged or connected
- checked firing order, the orders is fine
- checked O2 wire, the wire is connected
- checked alternator, it's good
- checked grounds, all wires are intact
- checked spark, and got shocked, so it's good
- added some coolant
- replaced spark plug
- replaced battery
- replaced airfilter
- replaced fuel filter
- replaced turbo with a used one (works)
Pictures
I need help identify these random wires, and check these emission block off vacume hoses, I am especially looking for the wire that goes to the waterthermo sensor next to the alternator. All wire you see here that's not connected is/was NOT connected.
Lolcat needs help identify these clusterfucked wire and vacume line.
Lolcat also needs help on troubleshooting some of the problems.
Background
- 87 Turbo II
- Racing beat Rev II complete system from downpipe to exhaust
- Ported wastegate
- emission block off
- Removed A/C
- No powersteering
- Ebay cone filter
- Custom fuel pump wire with switch
Problems
- Car starts then dies after about 3 seconds, and backfires. If I step on throttle the car will die right away.
(Before this happened, I was revving the engine on and off in neutral with quite a bit of gas, and then all of sudden the car starts to slowly drop idle and eventually died)
- Car boggles whenever I step hard on the throttle, but revs fine if step gentle in every gear, even in neutral
- Right after the car turns off, I can hear a small leaking noise from engine bay near the brake booster.
- Clicking sound coming from turbo
- Compressor surge on a stock turbo with stock intercooler and piping.
- Cooling fan turns on whenever the key is at ON position, regardless of engine temperature.
- Oil pressure gauge is not responding
- The OEM alarm goes off whenever I unlock the car with key, but doesn't go off whenever I unlock the car with hand from inside.
- Dummy lights does not turn on when the key is at ON position, however part of dummy light works when it's needed, such as hatch open, low fuel, cooling fan and clock, the rest of light does not turn on.
- Door light does not turn on when the door opens, as well as the interior light.
Work done by myself
- checked MAF connection, all electrical and vacume hose is connected
- checked MAF, the flapper door seem to be functioning properly
- checked vacume line, they are either plugged or connected
- checked firing order, the orders is fine
- checked O2 wire, the wire is connected
- checked alternator, it's good
- checked grounds, all wires are intact
- checked spark, and got shocked, so it's good
- added some coolant
- replaced spark plug
- replaced battery
- replaced airfilter
- replaced fuel filter
- replaced turbo with a used one (works)
Pictures
I need help identify these random wires, and check these emission block off vacume hoses, I am especially looking for the wire that goes to the waterthermo sensor next to the alternator. All wire you see here that's not connected is/was NOT connected.
11-13-11, 02:51 PM
#3
too much **** to list so i'll just go with the bottom pic, those are for the cruise control and the sub-zero assist tank. the sub zero assist was deleted from the factory via a TSB from mazda so forget that 2 pin connector.
for the rest you will be better served getting a new engine harness, BAC valve, ACV and complete rats nest(if you need it for emissions).
the silicone splatter between the front rotor housing and iron means that the o-ring has failed in that area. there is no real external fix for it, it requires a complete teardown of the engine to fix properly.
most of the rest is emissions removal but that engine harness makes me squirm looking at it.
jumpers under the air filter are for high impedence injectors, if it does in fact have them.
for the rest you will be better served getting a new engine harness, BAC valve, ACV and complete rats nest(if you need it for emissions).
the silicone splatter between the front rotor housing and iron means that the o-ring has failed in that area. there is no real external fix for it, it requires a complete teardown of the engine to fix properly.
most of the rest is emissions removal but that engine harness makes me squirm looking at it.
jumpers under the air filter are for high impedence injectors, if it does in fact have them.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-13-11 at 02:55 PM.
11-13-11, 04:52 PM
#7
RE EVOLUTION
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too much **** to list so i'll just go with the bottom pic, those are for the cruise control and the sub-zero assist tank. the sub zero assist was deleted from the factory via a TSB from mazda so forget that 2 pin connector.
for the rest you will be better served getting a new engine harness, BAC valve, ACV and complete rats nest(if you need it for emissions).
the silicone splatter between the front rotor housing and iron means that the o-ring has failed in that area. there is no real external fix for it, it requires a complete teardown of the engine to fix properly.
most of the rest is emissions removal but that engine harness makes me squirm looking at it.
jumpers under the air filter are for high impedence injectors, if it does in fact have them.
for the rest you will be better served getting a new engine harness, BAC valve, ACV and complete rats nest(if you need it for emissions).
the silicone splatter between the front rotor housing and iron means that the o-ring has failed in that area. there is no real external fix for it, it requires a complete teardown of the engine to fix properly.
most of the rest is emissions removal but that engine harness makes me squirm looking at it.
jumpers under the air filter are for high impedence injectors, if it does in fact have them.
Hey thanks for the input
As far as emission goes, I don't need it. Am I still better off getting a new harness?
And what is the low/high impedence injectors, is there a difference between primary and secondary injectors compare to low/high impedence injectors? I saw that jumper there was jumping a wire that disconects from the solenoid looking modual, what does that modual do?
What is TSB stand for btw?
Last edited by DairokutenMaoh; 11-13-11 at 04:58 PM.
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11-13-11, 04:57 PM
#10
it's hard to know for sure, the injectors are under the UIM, all the model ECUs need to see 12-13 ohms from each injector. later model injectors are all high impedence(12-13 ohms per injector) but your car originally had low impedence injectors which are 2-3 ohms. the block that it used to connect to is a resistor pack which added 10ohms of resistance to each injector circuit for the injectors to work properly.
if i were you i'd remove the engine harness and cut it open, if you do not need emissions simplify the harness by removing or cutting off any diseased wiring which could cause issues with the ECU shorting out and intermittent issues and replace any bad necessary connectors with new replacements, such as the injector clips which are a critical point that needs a good connection.
if i were you i'd remove the engine harness and cut it open, if you do not need emissions simplify the harness by removing or cutting off any diseased wiring which could cause issues with the ECU shorting out and intermittent issues and replace any bad necessary connectors with new replacements, such as the injector clips which are a critical point that needs a good connection.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-13-11 at 05:00 PM.
11-13-11, 05:07 PM
#11
Excellent pics, but scary engine bay grunge. 
Your water thermosensor is shown in the third picture from the end. It's the greenish.EV1 connector with a retaining wire around the clip opening. Your oil pressure connector is the Y/R wire hanging by the motor mount.
Your water thermosensor is shown in the third picture from the end. It's the greenish.EV1 connector with a retaining wire around the clip opening. Your oil pressure connector is the Y/R wire hanging by the motor mount.
11-13-11, 05:55 PM
#12
RE EVOLUTION
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Am I missing a wire or something?
Also for the oil pressure sensor, I think thats the sensor that is located right under the oil filter right? I see a rusted bolt there instead of a pressure sensor.
Last edited by DairokutenMaoh; 11-13-11 at 06:03 PM.
11-13-11, 05:58 PM
#13
RE EVOLUTION
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it's hard to know for sure, the injectors are under the UIM, all the model ECUs need to see 12-13 ohms from each injector. later model injectors are all high impedence(12-13 ohms per injector) but your car originally had low impedence injectors which are 2-3 ohms. the block that it used to connect to is a resistor pack which added 10ohms of resistance to each injector circuit for the injectors to work properly.
if i were you i'd remove the engine harness and cut it open, if you do not need emissions simplify the harness by removing or cutting off any diseased wiring which could cause issues with the ECU shorting out and intermittent issues and replace any bad necessary connectors with new replacements, such as the injector clips which are a critical point that needs a good connection.
if i were you i'd remove the engine harness and cut it open, if you do not need emissions simplify the harness by removing or cutting off any diseased wiring which could cause issues with the ECU shorting out and intermittent issues and replace any bad necessary connectors with new replacements, such as the injector clips which are a critical point that needs a good connection.
And yeah, I'm pulling the engine out, as well as all the wires and gonna redo the whole car.
11-13-11, 06:46 PM
#14
Ban Peak
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Get a New harness, or a good used one.
You're right about the injectors as well. AFAIK theres no advantage to different Impedance injectors. Just that if you use High impedance you don't need that resistor Pack.
No Need to pull the engine unless it's bad. Just pull the Manifolds, and get new gaskets and O-rings. You're lucky being in the DC Area. Malloy Mazda is the best dealership in the US to get OEM RX-7 parts at.
You're right about the injectors as well. AFAIK theres no advantage to different Impedance injectors. Just that if you use High impedance you don't need that resistor Pack.
No Need to pull the engine unless it's bad. Just pull the Manifolds, and get new gaskets and O-rings. You're lucky being in the DC Area. Malloy Mazda is the best dealership in the US to get OEM RX-7 parts at.
11-13-11, 07:54 PM
#15
The water thermosensor you said does not look like it fits the single pin male sensor slot next to the alternator.
Am I missing a wire or something?
Also for the oil pressure sensor, I think thats the sensor that is located right under the oil filter right? I see a rusted bolt there instead of a pressure sensor.
Am I missing a wire or something?
Also for the oil pressure sensor, I think thats the sensor that is located right under the oil filter right? I see a rusted bolt there instead of a pressure sensor.
The oil pressure sensor is a big fugly canister under the oil filter pedestal. Doesn't affect the running of your car, but nice to have just in case your oil cooler hose decides to blowout.
11-14-11, 07:51 AM
#16
If your redoing the car pull that **** and make a nice harness and use some pimp stuff like this:
By the way…… Where in DC are you? If you need some help let me know.
11-14-11, 09:20 AM
#17
RE EVOLUTION
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Sorry for the obvious answer but most people are afraid of wiring and the harness (by the looks of it) has already been hacked. But Karack said it right.
If your redoing the car pull that **** and make a nice harness and use some pimp stuff like this:
By the way…… Where in DC are you? If you need some help let me know.
If your redoing the car pull that **** and make a nice harness and use some pimp stuff like this:
By the way…… Where in DC are you? If you need some help let me know.
BTW, I got a S5 turbo with the s5 manifold, is that a direct bolt on with no other parts required to have the s5 turbo function on a s4 engine?
Last edited by DairokutenMaoh; 11-14-11 at 09:30 AM.
11-14-11, 09:46 AM
#18
Fairfax..........or Far-Fax as I like to call it is no problem for me since I work near Fair Oaks mall. And yes I daily my FC from DC every day! Sorry, I dont know about any S4/S5 turbo parts I'm a N/A (S4 White GXL) guy, but I'm sure someone has made a thread about it already.
11-14-11, 10:00 AM
#19
11-14-11, 10:01 AM
#20
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^^ Yes, the S5 turbo is a direct bolt on when it's going onto a TII. The wastegate on the S5 turbo works much better than the one on a stock S4 turbo, but you might as well port that too while it's out.
11-14-11, 10:35 AM
#21
would basically have to port the wastegate otherwise it will be pushing up to series 4 stock fuel cut constantly. the S5 pushes 1 psi more stock pressure than the S4, the turbo is NO more efficient though so upgrading the fuel system is only necessary when raising the boost levels beyond fuel cut.
11-14-11, 04:07 PM
#22
Functionally, the S5 turbo and manifold will bolt using the S4 water and oil lines. There are a lot of supporting mod's that need to be done like injectors, sensor swaps, wiring modifications, fuel pump, etc. Lots of searchable info available on "6port turbo" and "NA-T" swaps or start here http://aaroncake.net/RX-7/naturbo.htm
Please disregard my suggestions.
11-14-11, 08:26 PM
#23
RE EVOLUTION
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would basically have to port the wastegate otherwise it will be pushing up to series 4 stock fuel cut constantly. the S5 pushes 1 psi more stock pressure than the S4, the turbo is NO more efficient though so upgrading the fuel system is only necessary when raising the boost levels beyond fuel cut.
But, I didn't know that s5 turbo is not much better than s4.
11-14-11, 10:56 PM
#24
Hmm, so there is no advantage at all to switch to S5 turbo? Then this would be more of a replacement than upgrade I guess. For some reason the design of S5 manifold looked a lot better to me as well as the s5 turbine housing. The S5 turbine housing also features a dual port wastegate instead of one port wastegate.
But, I didn't know that s5 turbo is not much better than s4.
But, I didn't know that s5 turbo is not much better than s4.
the main benefit of the S5 turbo is the superior wastegate design. the S5 runs 1 psi higher than series 4 and spools quicker because it has .5:1 more compression from the rotors and the solenoid which holds the wastegate closed longer to help spool the turbo and overshoot faster, this isn't necessarily because of the differences between the housings and manifold. the S4 used the twin scroll to shut off the secondary turbo runner to increase air speed through the single primary runner, this helped some but the S4 rotors are the main culprit to the lag between the 2 turbos. running a S5 turbo on a series 4 omits the pre-spool solenoid so that's out.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 11-14-11 at 10:58 PM.
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