Mazdarules

I think everyone who has some knowledge on turboing N/A's should post on this thread and then it should be archived, every time the question comes up (like twice a week) we just refer the newb's to this post to get the info that they need. After they read this thread, if they still have questions, then they can post them.

I'll start,
In my personal opinion you are better off to sell the N/A and buy a T2. The costs of buying a nice T2 is about the same (or less) as buying all the parts Necessary for the conversion plus the price of your N/A. The reliability of a stock T2 would be a lot greater then a backyard conversion.
If you still insist on doing the conversion to your N/A,
The best option is to find a wrecked T2 (MAKE SURE THAT YOUR PARTS CAR IS FROM THE SAME SERIES! 86-88= series 4, 89-91=series 5. this will avoid a lot of headaches) and remove the complete driveline and engine (CV half shafts, Diff, Drive shaft, Transmission, Engine, turbo, ecu, wiring harness and other misc parts). Install all of these parts on to the N/A and you will have a reliable turbo car in an N/A body (who wants that?). The reason that you need the whole driveline is because the N/A's have really crappy transmissions, they can barely hand the stock hp of the engine (146hp 86-88, and 160hp 89-91). The T2 transmission is way stronger, and it's a bit longer so the stock N/A drive shaft must be replaced with a T2 unit(which is also stronger then the N/A unit) that doen't bolt up to the N/A rear diff. The rest of the T2 driveline is also way stronger then the N/A

*Aaron Cake and others who are in the proccess of this conversion please respond with comments and input (this section is just my opinion and assumptions)*
The final option, and aftermarket kit or custom installation
I have one question why would you waste your time? You would need a new block with low compression rotors if you wanted to run decent boost, and so many other engine parts and a new ecu. After all of the work to get the turbo in there etc. the trans will probably let go in less then a month and your engine won't last that much longer.

fastrotaries

No doubt.......TO ALL: THIS IS NOT A FRIDAY EVENING PROJECT, NOR CAN YOU DO IT FOR LIKE $500, SO QUIT ASKING

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I will post in my comments from the last thread, and perhaps add something....

Turbo'ing the NA block:
The TII turbo/manifold assembly will bolt right up to the 6 port NA block, but the ACV valve on the lower manifold interferes. The solution is to make an adapter that spaces the manifold out about 3/4" or so. You then need to get oil and water to the turbo, as well as make a custom downpipe. The intake piping is rather easy to deal with, and putting TII secondary injectors in place of your NA secondaries should be good until about 7PSI boost. If you want to go higher, you will need to probably deal with ignition retard, as well as better fuel control with a SAFC or similar computer. A boost sensitive fuel pressure regulator couldn't hurt either.

The NA transmission is not as strong as the TII unit, but will easily handle the power of a turbocharged NA.

I'm in the process of doing the same thing to my NA right now, except I am also making use of a FMIC and BOV. Still haven't decided where I am going to get the oil for the turbo though...(water is easy...just tap the heater hose).

As far as engine longevity goes, I know of several people on this forum that have been running this configuration for over a year with no problems. Some go as high as 14PSI of boost! If you pay careful attention to fuel and ignition, you should be fine as long as you don't get crazy.

If you want to get crazy with boost, you will need an aftermarket ECU such as the Haltech, and it would be best to either swap in the TII block, or at least rebuild the NA block with 3MM apex seals.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Not to argue, but it is entirely possible to do this for $500 if you have a TII parts car and are a good scrounger (ie. older Supra BOV for $10 at the wreckers...).

Mazdarules

Aaron I think you are wrong about the trans. It is a really shitty unit.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The syncros in the transmission are total garbage, but the strength of the unit is more than most people expect. True, it is not nearly as strong as the TII unit (you can tell just by looking), but it is quite a good transmission nontheless. I have never heard of any turbo related failures of the NA tansmission. However, the clutch is a different story.

wankelhead

just a idea here,but you might want to change your subject heading to somehow have turbo+conversion in it...that way it will be much easier to find for somebody that does a search for it.i think this is a great idea...i dont have much to say on the subject,thou,i loked into it a little bit,but decided to build a kick *** n/a instead.later
david

wankelhead

wait..i do have some input.here is another option as far as the tranny goes.rob golden at pineapple racing will swap in miata internals into a n/a case.he told me they where quite a bit stronger and much nicer shifting[sounds like there is some good options for swapping out gears,too].and,he says he's run bridgeport motors in the 300hp range w/o problems.i think it will cost you like 900.- bucks +tranny case[core].one day,when i can come up with the money....[salivating]

www.pineappleracing.com check it out

Mazdarules

A comment on the pineapple tranny, How much would a T2 driveline cost from a wrecked car, or one with a blown engine(guarantee it's less then 900 and good for way more then 300hp)?

I have heard of premature failure of the N/A unit's but just the syncros (but if the sync's fry then the tranny needs a rebuild anyways)

Keep the info flowing!

Mazdarules

no one else on this forum has any other info? come on guys, I would like this to have all the info for a N/A to Turbo swap

SIX TWO SLEEPER

Complete T2 parts car with only a bad right fender and nose - 150 USD all taxes.

Complete not-running well '86 RX-7 - 70 USD.

Compete '84 GSL-SE missing motor - 50 USD.

Having three 7's - priceless.

kabooski

jeez well I posted a long thread a while back on putting a TII engine in a N/A
using N/A tranny and rear

the best way to make a N/A engine turbo
is to use a holly manifold with a marine Holly Carb(600 cfm to 650 cfm)
with a turbonetics hat
and a 85 rx7 distrubuter and get the racing beat oil by-pass
that can feed the turbo oil and tap the oil pan for a oil return line
you can use a TII turbo and manifold (cheapest) or go for a T4 set up with external wastegate

Maxthe7man

If I were totally in love with my n/a and wanted mondo power, after spending cash on wheels, body kit etc etc, I would do the turbo swap, but bite the bullet right off the start line, and ditch the factory ecu, go with a haltech, or a wolf, this would allow you to tune the engine to higher than factory "tii" boost levels, and allow you to swap to a better turbo if you were so inclined, you have to do a harness change with the TII computer, why not bypass that, and just go standalone, chances are with the TII computer would buy a s-afc and some other knick knacks anyway, used TII harness+computer+S-afc,+ FCd+map+maf etc etc, probably is getting close to a wolf price anyway, if you went and started with a TII, how long would it be before you bought a s-afc, itc, rebic, or wolf for the TII car? And even with the TII Car, chances are its gonna be injectors and pump at some point anyway..
Now personally, I own 4n/a's of various years and one TII, the TII is slowly turning into a t04e'd beast over winter, all the stock stuff is finding its way on to my lowly 87 GX(SE for the people south of the border), so in effect my n/a turbo conversion will cost me nothing but time, however before I got my TII I was planning on doing a turbo conversion on the N/A and at that time I was prepared to go haltech or TECII on it to make it work...my .02 worth...Max
PS: incidently, the effective compression ratio of the n/a motor at 6 psi of boost, is the same as the tII at 9 psi, about 13.8:1 effective CR,how many people run their tII's above 9 psi, LOTS.....

Mazdarules

How many run above 9 without any mods?or a stand alone?
keep the comments coming