1987 GXL S4 FC
120k

Heyy whats up everyone, ive been reading alot of the same threads to try and fix my problem and been very helpful thank you.
But still seem to run into other issues instead.

Started off with my " Add Coolant light and buzzer going off "
Added Coolant, then ran fine for a bit. Did a compression test and found the leaking point ( the hose connected in right rear area right next to the trailing spark plug ) fixed that leak, clamped everything back. but found some random wire with what looks like a resistor at the end with a circle clip, i ended up grounding it to the clutch slave cylinder, but seems to belong somewhere else.

Filled up the coolant again, blasted heat , turned on car. Then buzzer went off.
I looked at the temp gauge and it seemed to run at regular tempature.
Shut off the car, checked if any leaks,enough coolant and seemed fine.

Car flooded when i tried to start car again, so just waited a bit disconnected EGI fuses, cranked , plugged in again and started right up.
I noticed more smoke than usual coming out from exhaust nd got pissed ( possible blown seal ) but smoke dissapated after quick around the block drive with the buzzer still going offff.

That was last night ...

This morning ...

Started the car up just fine, blasted heat, lil bit of white smoke coming outt buzzer still going off. After letting it run for a bit the buzzer turned off, double checked everything and drove off.

The buzzer didnt come on at all until i took a right turn off an exit off the highway and seems to only come one when i take a sharp right turn, then shuts off as I straightened outt.
I also noticed my power steering seemed looser, more responsive than before.
Temp gauge was fine running fine, didnt drastically rise just stayed low ( replaced thermostat ) Oil pressure perfect also ( 30 at idle above 60 when driving )

Pulled into parking lot, left car running at idle, checked everything.
No smoke , no leaks and idling pretty good, drove pretty good , no hesitation.

From reading all the prior threads, im guessing its air in the coolant.
Im goin to bleed the system after work nd continue to provide with feedback.
Just want to figure out what would cause the buzzer to go off when turning only right.

Sorry for long post, tried to prevent it by reading all other post first.
Thank you though for taking a look at my post.

 

Seems like you're doing what you should be doing already. Burping the system should help out.

 

you need to bleed the hell out of the coolant system. there is a air bleeder screw on the passenger side of the radiator to bleed out air.

when you start the engine cold look for small champane bubbles constantly comming from top coolant fill neck. a sign of a bad coolant seal.

the wire with the resistor box is a dampner for the oil gauge. it is grounded to the slave cylender

good descroption on making the buzzer go off. if it is doing it when turning like that and sraying on ground out the wire from the sensor on top of the radiator. when it sees a ground it turns off the buzzer. i had that wire rub through under the airbox causing it to buzz on turns intermittaly. i just ran a new wire. also take the sensor out and chack it and your radiator to see if it is corroded ouut.

sorry for the spelling im on drugs just had surgery

 

Thanks again. Car buzzer hasn't gone off since. No leaks , no smoke ( guessing the white smoke was from fuel build-up when it was flooded ) hasn't smoked since. Oil pressure gauge isnt working either prob lose connection , dirt, grime . But thanks again . Hope ya get better

 

dont trust the oil gauge. at all.

 

Your oil pressure sensor may not be working because that loose wire you found either belongs to the oil pressure sensor that is right below the oil filter OR that one needs to be grounded on a bolt on the engine right behind the oil filter. Not quite sure. but i have an 86 s4 so it has very similar wiring i think almost exact.

 

The mysterious "black box" thingie you found is a condenser that's part of the pressure gauge circuit. It's kind of like an appendix; Mazda thought it should be there but the gauge functions fine without.
It does go on one of the slave cylinder bolts.

The stock oil pressure gauge is actually not bad at all, more heavily dampened than aftermarket units, but reading very similarly.

 

If youre still using the stock snap on clamps toss those away, they're garbage. Get those clamps you tighten with a screwdriver and put them on all your hoses. And yes it does take a while to completely bleed the air from the cooling system.

 

Yeah they are shitty lol thanks again !