2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

It just died ??

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Old May 7, 2002 | 12:34 AM
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It just died ??

Ok ive got a real heck of a problem.
I bought a rx-7 from a dealer, it needed some work new brakes, a light on the inside was burned out, no biggie.
I test drove it, It drove great, so i bought it.
About 2 weeks after i bought it, it started sucking at accelration and leaking oil. Then right after I shifted into third the car died, it was as if I had like flipped the off switch on it. Gauges all dropped to zero, and I just coasted to the side of the road. When I tried to restart the car it sounded like the starter was spinning faster and it was a higher pitched sound . After unflooding id say about 6 times now, replacing the plugs with new ngk plugs and replacing the battery several times (from all the cranking) it now spins at a normal speed when i crank it but it just doesnt start up, sometimes it will half start up and puffs of black smoke will come out of the exhaust, now its just sitting in my field rusting away, i love the car and its my only ride, but i lost my job and im on UI now so my finances are a bit limited, what can i do ? and please dont say replace the engine cause thats just not an option, help !!
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Old May 7, 2002 | 12:57 AM
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Oh yah if i leave it on in the on position after a while it will give that warning beeeeep sound and the add coolant light will light up. whats that mean ? its full of coolant !
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Old May 7, 2002 | 12:59 AM
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by the way its a 87 turbo ii
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Old May 7, 2002 | 05:49 AM
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did you check the radaiotor, or just look at the resavore? is there mass amounts of oil on the drivers side of your engine?
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Old May 7, 2002 | 07:45 AM
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SAME thing happened to me,sadly,...I dont own the car anymore.
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Old May 7, 2002 | 02:06 PM
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Dalor,

Hey what were the compression numbers on the engine? If they sold you a "hack" repair job engine you've got good cause to get a refund

I went through something similar with "atlanta fine autos" where they swore the car was perfect but the engine's compression numbers were low. Come to find out they did a hack job on the rebuild to save money (ie they only did part of the rebuild).

If the compression numbers are good, probably something simple like just needed a fuel filter or tuneup.

Last edited by vaughnc; May 7, 2002 at 02:08 PM.
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Old May 8, 2002 | 02:10 AM
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There is a ton of oil on the engine ? It also has always leaked oil, how do i check the compression ? and whats the process for a push start ? Man I just want it to work again , and im in canada an unfortunately they dont have lemon laws up here, and ive owned it for probally to long anyways. please help !
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Old May 8, 2002 | 02:11 AM
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ps i just looked in the resevoir, how can i check the real ammount ? does that mean anything ? thanks for any info guys i really appreciate it
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Old May 8, 2002 | 02:39 AM
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Ok, here's some things to look at:
Check the main fuses (drivers side strut tower)
Make sure none are burnt/fried/look odd
Verify you are getting fuel (should tell just by looking at the plugs)
Turn the engine over a couple times, get out of the car, and stick your head next to the intake and listen for a running water sort of sound (this may indicate your fuel pump isn't running)
If you are not getting fuel, check inside the car under the drivers side dash at the fuse panel, check the one that says Motor and make sure it isn't blown,
Verify that you are unflooding it correctly, and that when you do so you are pulling out the EGI fuses (the 30 and the 40 just to be sure)
If it still won't start after that, check the overflow (resevoir) for the coolant again, what color does it look? Does it look like mud water? If you can't get it to start that way, try to hook up a fuel kill switch and see if that helps any.
But before you try any of this, you should make sure you have good compression, go buy a compression tester at a local automotive store (not one with a check valve), hook it up on one rotor at a time and crank it over, you should see 3 pulses somewhere around 85-120, verify that these are within operable range, if not, then chances are it needs a rebuild, or you can see if the ATF trick will do it for you, but thats some things you can try.
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Old May 8, 2002 | 03:11 AM
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When I unflooded i plugged the egi 30 and 40, took plugs out cranked it, put atf in bottom holes, then tried to start, smae result, it like puffs so it does get igniton a bit , but not enough to turn it over enough to get going andi know its getting fuel cause i can smell it and because of the igniton, so i need a normal compresion tester ? where do i hook it up?
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Old May 8, 2002 | 10:25 AM
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Just stick it in the trailing spark plug hole
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Old May 8, 2002 | 11:28 AM
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bumpity

If your not not really sure on repairs & tuneups you might have your local rotary mechanic take a crack at her.

You might want to concentrate on proving/disproving if the compression is good (mazda dealership rotary specific compression test) or determinging if the oil leak is serious. If you prove either of the above I'd be asking for a refund from them.

If everything's OK, then get a tuneup
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Old May 8, 2002 | 11:53 AM
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Dalor,

Here's a quick something you can try. Grab a set of jumper cables, and attach one end of the black side to the negative terminal on the battery, and the other end somewhere on the engine block. If your engine ground is gone, the car won't start. This is in effect mimmicing the ground strap. Just a thought.
Nick
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