ok i just lost like a big *** write up on what i did so here it is short and sweet there is an air bypass on the afm and a screw is covered by a plate that you drill out well you cover the air bypass and open the screw all the way and set the r/l screw to halfway from normal and rich and you get something i dont know what yet but it feels faster but the down part is that its is running richer i would think and that it acts like a streetported car where it feels like it has no torque and you probally lose more on the low end but the top end is surely helped so if you want me to further explain just say so if you want to flame then go ahead i just wanted to put my 2 cents in on this

 

I don't think I fully understand. I thought that rich lean skrew was for idle only

 

not too smart to be "jacking" with that.........

 

Go for it explain away...hopefully in more detail this time :-), but you have my curiosity peaked.

 

No no one should be jacking on anything except well uh you figure it out alright i will have in full detail and pictures what i exactly did...peace

 

wow, that was a long sentance

 

Didn't know you rated your cars power at idle... most people do that at WOT.

The screw you talk of only affects the fuel mixture at idle. Your butt dyno is proving inaccurate.

 

Theres not a single mark of punctuation in that entire post...

 

the AFM screw would adjust it everywhere, correct? The A/F screw only adjusts idle, and doesn't malfunction too often, so it should only be messed around with if it REALLY needs to be. The screw on the AFM allows more unmetered air to go through, so opening it more would tell the computer there's slightly less air coming in, and it would run a little leaner. On NA Rx7s, the slightly leaner conditions may make it feel a little more powerful, since they run rich right from the box. Overall though, I think the AFM might've done a LITTLE bit of something, the AF screw did nothing and your mind filled in the rest.