Madrx7racer

My friend's GTUs is making a CLINK sound whe she shifts, or lets off the gas......I thought it was her driving but it happens to me too. It has a stage 1 clutchmasters clutch(20K miles on it) and a rebuilt tranny(20K also) and it sounds like a metallic clink sound, not the THUNK of the Diff mount.......I am replacing the clutch slave and master cylinders because of some leaking fluid but I was wondering if you guys have had experiences with a problem like hers. Sounds like it's coming from the tranny well( driveshaft maybe? or something with the clutch?)

thanks in advance,

Hassell

Icemark

check the tranny and engine mounts

Innovation

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like ujoint. Grab the drive shaft and twist it with the ebrake on. If it moves then you have a bad ujoint.

But Icemark would be the authority on that.

Icemark

Nah, not the authority on that...

Generally if it is a U joint though you will get Vibration when moving, instead of a clink. Single Clinks on accell or decell are generally something hitting something.

Innovation

iTrader: (1)

Hey not to post jack but I changed out my drive shaft because it definatly had a bad ujoint but I have a really bad vibration between 40 and 60 mph. The center console really rattles bad and can't figure out why? Checked the tranny mounts and they are fine, any suggestions. What are the symptom's of a broke diff. mount.

Madrx7racer

I do get vibrations. See below
YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! that's my problem...The broke diff. mount is a loud THUNK behind you (diff)when you shift or accelerate/decelerate.....but not a metalic "clink" in the tranny well.

Icemark

Vibration in drivetrain when starting off in first gear, and decreases once car is moving: Front U-joint is bad.

Vibration in drivetrain that gets considerably worse the faster you go: Rear U-joint is bad.

Vibration in car when not moving that increases / decreases with engine RPM: Bad transmission mount.

Really bad noises from drivetrain that change dramatically between acceleration, light throttle cruise, and deceleration: Ring and Pinion are bad. The 3rd member must be rebuilt or replaced.

Madrx7racer

ok....bad U joints.....Will check to see if Mazdatrix has them...any other places to look?


Thanks for the awesome knowledge,
Hassell

Madrx7racer

damn!

dallen

Also check the CV joints. The second gens use inners and outers on the drive axle. They can clink under acceleration and sometimes deceleration when they start to go bad. Often the clink becomes more pronounced when turning while giving power. They usually don't grind until just before they quit completely. Sometimes they will cause a vibration, but often they don't.

Madrx7racer

it was the U joint....the front one crapped out and broke some of the linkage for the shifter so it wont shift into gear.........My problem is getting the U joint out of the tranny.....the DS is broken at the joint and the joint is still on the tranny......am I gonna have to drop the tranny to fix the shifter linkage thing?

Madrx7racer

bump for ways to remove u joint from tranny once the joint separated from DS...

Madrx7racer

Update: Brooke's dad and I sterted to work on it today......so far we removed the exhaust, driveshaft, starter, and half of the bolts on the tranny/engine........it got dark so I will continue tomorrow. I nocied that the shifter bar that goes into the tranny snapped off into 2 parts.........tomorrow: tranny comes out........pics to come soon.

Madrx7racer

well, here is what happens if you don't fix the problem early:














Now my problem is that I can't take the whole rear 3rd of the tranny off. It's sealed shut.

Turbo II

iTrader: (1)

Put it in 1st let out the clutch gently and clunk, let car settle, put in reverse let out clutch gently and clunk. Acts almost like you're waiting on the drivetrain to catch up with itself somewhere down the line. Owner said he got a bad vibration about 40mph. I got under the car at the rear u-joint area and could rotate the driveshaft a bit with the ebrake on. Couldn't budge it trying to move it any other directions. The front dif mount looked like it was good and solid. Could this be anything other than bad u-joints?

Andrew.

iTrader: (4)

I had the exact problem i just changed the driveshaft off my parts car, took 40 minutes. Easy when the parts car has no exhaust Everytime i would get on the gas a vibration and the faster i went the more it got but it would settle down at freeway speeds.

-Andrew

Madrx7racer

fix the problem early or suffer the consequences:

Andrew.

iTrader: (4)

OH MY GOD!!!


Where did you get that huge thing of turtle wax!!!

-Andrew

GTUser

Thanks for posting the "fix" instead of just dropping out when you found the fix. By posting comments on How I fixed my problem it gives the rest of us a chance to learn instead of guess at what happened.

I am having the drivetrain vibrations now. No vibration in 1st or 2nd gear just in the higher gears and it gets worse with speed. So I'll have to replace my drive shaft. I found a site on the Internet calls Drive Shaft Specialist out of Texas and they're building me a custom driveshaft with removeable U-joints. They were about the same price as mazdatrix but they're only half a continent away and don't charge for shipping.

By the way, how did you finally remove the U-joint from the tranny after it broke off? I am sure someone else has had the problem. Mine is still in one piece and I think I'll park it until the new DS arrives.

Madrx7racer

I pulled it off, i just needed to use my man strength............here are pics:





I think you went in the right direction with removable U-joints........post up their number in case anyone else needs it.