ISO Flasher CPU Clarification
#1
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ISO Flasher CPU Clarification
For context:
Further research has yielded a "Flasher CPU" as the potential next point of failure.
I have found Flasher CPU, part no. (FB01-67-564)
Comparing the above picture to the below diagram, this module looks to match the one for the DRL. Part marked 'D' in the Legend at the bottom.
Unfortunately, this diagram is for the 1989 model year.
Part marked 'C' in the diagram does not look like the part I have found called "Flasher CPU" 86-91 part no. (FB01-67-564).
But the grand-sum of the diagram looks so similar to the part marked FB01 from the first photo in this thread.
---
I have read some common failed part, referred to as "Flasher Module" (?) can be repaired with new solder joints in lieu of costly replacement.
I am unsure where this part is physically located on the unit labeled FB01.
---
Can someone clarify if the two relays we bought initially are anything to do with anything?
Can someone clarify approximately where on the part marked FB01 it is that I need to convey that efforts need to be next directed at?
----
To reiterate:
My dad is working on the car so there is an element of the "telephone" game involved as I am information-middle-man.
I really appreciate any insight.
Works Cited Page:
https://www.reddit.com/r/RX7/comment...ay_cpu_box_in/
https://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_...cal_system.pdf
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-fb05-1120897/
https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/8...01-67-564.html
I am trying to help my father diagnose non-working turn signals on a 1988 Rx7 non-turbo, non-convertible. 100% bone-stock.
The car is with my dad approximately 10hrs away round trip from me, so I am trying to provide as much clear-cut pictures and information as I can.
Ruled Out:The car is with my dad approximately 10hrs away round trip from me, so I am trying to provide as much clear-cut pictures and information as I can.
Fuses. Swapped with known-good, no change.
The steering wheel stalk. Removed the shroud and stalk, checked for corrosion and seated connections.
More Information:The steering wheel stalk. Removed the shroud and stalk, checked for corrosion and seated connections.
The steering wheel stalk HIGH BEAMs work.
The steering wheel stalk TURN SIGNALs provide no turn-signal lights. No clicking, either.
The HAZARD lights do work.
Points Seeking Clarification:The steering wheel stalk TURN SIGNALs provide no turn-signal lights. No clicking, either.
The HAZARD lights do work.
I am under the impression that the TURN SIGNAL and HAZARD lights share the same CPU / Module?
If so, thoughts as to why the hazards work but the turn signals do not? The stalk has been ruled out as it was taken apart.
I am under the impression that on the 1988 non-turbo, non-convertible . . . that this CPU / Module is located behind the left most kick panel on the driver side USDM model.
I believe the CPU is designated with the writing "FB01"
---I believe the CPU is designated with the writing "FB01"
My initial research led me to believe that I needed to replace a "Relay" as the next point of failure.
My dad and I set off to find this "relay" to which we came up with two different models.
But, perhaps as you could guess, we could not find where they were intended to go.
---My dad and I set off to find this "relay" to which we came up with two different models.
But, perhaps as you could guess, we could not find where they were intended to go.
Further research has yielded a "Flasher CPU" as the potential next point of failure.
I have found Flasher CPU, part no. (FB01-67-564)
Comparing the above picture to the below diagram, this module looks to match the one for the DRL. Part marked 'D' in the Legend at the bottom.
Unfortunately, this diagram is for the 1989 model year.
Part marked 'C' in the diagram does not look like the part I have found called "Flasher CPU" 86-91 part no. (FB01-67-564).
But the grand-sum of the diagram looks so similar to the part marked FB01 from the first photo in this thread.
I have read some common failed part, referred to as "Flasher Module" (?) can be repaired with new solder joints in lieu of costly replacement.
I am unsure where this part is physically located on the unit labeled FB01.
---
Can someone clarify if the two relays we bought initially are anything to do with anything?
Can someone clarify approximately where on the part marked FB01 it is that I need to convey that efforts need to be next directed at?
----
To reiterate:
My dad is working on the car so there is an element of the "telephone" game involved as I am information-middle-man.
I really appreciate any insight.
Works Cited Page:
https://www.reddit.com/r/RX7/comment...ay_cpu_box_in/
https://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_...cal_system.pdf
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-fb05-1120897/
https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/8...01-67-564.html
#2
just because you took it apart doesn't mean its good. did you actually test the input/output of the switch? if yes, did you test the switch output at the module? plug D. there's a whole list of checks in the manual you linked.
the relays you bought are useless for this car.
the relays you bought are useless for this car.
#3
Rotary Freak
Factory service manuals are available at Foxed.ca. You can find the 1988 model manuals there.
Most of the issues are related to cold-soldee joints in the CPU. Sometimes in other parts of the car too (climate control, warning lights), but don't fix what isn't broken.
You can fix it by soldering if you are handy with an iron. I prefer to remove some old solder with braid or a vacuum sucker, and then add some new solder to the joint.
Most of the issues are related to cold-soldee joints in the CPU. Sometimes in other parts of the car too (climate control, warning lights), but don't fix what isn't broken.
You can fix it by soldering if you are handy with an iron. I prefer to remove some old solder with braid or a vacuum sucker, and then add some new solder to the joint.
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mr_vaughn (03-27-23)
#4
Senior Member
It may not be directly related to your problem, but I have taken apart a few of these cpus. On every one, I have found at least one burst and leaking electrolytic capacitor. They are of the age where these will start to fail. Sometimes they start corroding the circuit board beneath. If you open it up and see an electrolytic cap that is wrinkly and corroded or burst, desolder it, clean the board, and replace the capacitor and repair the circuit traces.
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mr_vaughn (03-27-23)
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With the additional comments made, I was able to provide better instructions over the phone to my dad and our preferred local shop was successful putting fresh solder where needed.
Thanks,
Thanks,
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GuruDave
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02-26-19 11:21 AM