Hey FC gurus.

Does anyone know off hand which FMIC kits for FC's allow you to keep the s5 factory foglights?

Many of the FMIC kits i have seen have the piping off of the end tanks running right through the openings for the foglights on the s5 bumper making it impossible to keep the fogs but I am sure some kits were designed to allow for them to stay in place without any piping modifications.

Name brand, ebay knockoff, whatever, I am just trying to find out what kits allow for this. Please post pics of your kit as well if you have one that allows for the foglights to remain.

Thanks!

 

Really it's in you making it happen most kits are just fabbed and don't run off a nice jig . Just Mock up off of some dudes ride . My friend just bought a kit that's supposed to keep ac and ps and and it still had to be reworked . In the end with my kit . I I just bought a universal kit and got smart with my cuts and how many couplers I have . Less to leak the better . Depending on the upgrades 2.5 all round is just fine endless trying to shot for the moon Alice lol also have ducting to Direct air is also A thought in the fmic . I had to make my own lower duct/shield out of a big sheet of plastic to save weight . But I can hold a $1 bill ( cause I'm ballin) to the fmic and the bill gets sucked up . My Efan does push a lot off air too.

 

Just a couple of my setup

 

Sorry for this many post
Damn forum app won't let edit right

 

every kit you can buy now is a copy of the new GReddy kit, and that kit was popular because it was cheap.

HKS had a newer style front mount, the same time GReddy did. it was probably way more expensive, but its the same size core, and it requires no cutting at all. it sits under the hood latch.

the older HKS and GReddy kits let you keep the fog lights too.

so essentially, we copied the wrong kit

 

There's gotta be some cutting . There's no way they necked the ip down to what the washer fluid res size was on the passenger side and same for battery side . Not saying there isn't nice kits out there . But if your Resourceful and a diy person then a simple universal eBay kit with a decent core is just fine . Just smoke or pressure test the core before mounting and your good . There's a few ways to make beads so the coupler doesn't pop off . I use the dimple method with a punch at 90 degree increments no coupler to date has popped off . The most important piece is the tb inlet . Find a greddy or a ko and your good from there .

 

i don't know why anyone hasn't taken my idea since it seems the simplest, a low mount V mount, with the intercooler under the car parallel to the road.

people have chopped and hacked their cars up to make intercoolers fit in the hardest to fit places but that spot is literally unused, lets you keep the A/C and unmolest the radiator and its mounting.

it'll be my next project since i plan on putting A/C back in my car and i had to think of every way possible to do so. if it worked well i had planned on making a kit but honestly, i'm starting a new job next week so that'll likely never be the case.

 

it doesn't go through the washer hole, in fact you can keep that too. it makes a 90 degree bend, and then the IC inlet is right there.

HKS used small piping, but the battery side hole is 70mm! so no cutting, you keep ac/ps/windshield washer/ and you keep the fog lights. battery needs to get smaller or move, but its less work than the GReddy kit

 

that is a good idea. i have a horizontal oil cooler on my 1st gen, and i just made a simple duct, so that air goes through it, and it works really well.

 

i did it with an RX8, i haven't attempted it with anything else yet though. the intercooler was a bit low but there is always give and take with intercoolers. water to air seems to be the best alternative still.

 

yeah it can just go where the top mount went

 

could also do it mad max style and put it on the roof. lol

 

I think it's amusing that you turbo guys go through all these contortions to keep the stock fog lights...because the stock fog lights suck.
You may as well use glow sticks.

I'd ditch those those things in a heartbeat if it made pipe routing better/simpler.

 

it's more to keep the clean factory appearance of the car and it helps hide the ugly pipes that run behind the brake ducts.

 

it doesn't though, pipe routing gets harder. like i said, nobody bought the good kit, so we're making copies of the bad one. the actual IC core sizes are the same too, the HKS end tanks are ~1/4" smaller so it fits between the frame rails instead of in front of them.

 

the old greddy still required cutting the front firewall and had gaudy pipes running over pipes with very steep curves in the piping with a rather small intercooler so it was less than ideal still.

 

I don't know why more intercooler kits don't just cut holes in the rad supports and send the pipes through. It's the easiest most direct way, with the shortest pipes of any front mount, and it doesn't eliminate the fog lights, head light retractors, bumper supports, underbelly tray, interfere with A/C compressor (condenser may be another story, I have not checked), power steering, brake booster, etc. Battery relocation is required.

All the kits require holes to be cut, so why not put them in a batter spot.

 

mostly because the intercoolers are basic and generic from those kits, with the standard straight in and out configuration vs facing forward toward the engine. in recent years there have been a lot more styles on the market, but 10+ years ago there wasn't much in the way of generic intercoolers or style choices.