jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

How do I go about adjusting the tach buzzer? I had a thread on cluster removal, but since folks have trouble with 'buzzer' issues, I thought a new thread would be good.

My buzzer goes off above 2K rpm. At idle no buzzer. Oil, coolant full and coolant bled. One day long ago I read you could adjust the buzzer but I could not find it in the search. I finally got the cluster switch out now need help again. Buzzer is in low right hand corner and shown (white box).

1) Now how do I take apart this circuit board w/o screwing up everything? Do all screws come out?
2) How do you adjust the rpm to activate the buzzer (assuming thats my problem)?

Thanks.........

Jpk3200

Once you do get it apart, there are 2 pots; one is metal and the other plastic. The metal one is the one you want to turn, as it is for the buzzer calibration. The plastic one is tach calibration. Turning the metal one away from the tach raises the point at which it goes off. I'm not sure how far you should turn it. Perhaps every quarter turn or so and recheck.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. What about disassembly of the greenboard. Do I take all those screws (I think 21) out to lift the back part off? Some screws are silver and some appear brass. I dont want to f' it up on the inside. Seems like alot screws to hold just the back on.

Jpk3200

Can't say that I've ever taken it apart myself. When I saw it with my own eyes, it had been disassembled previously. I was searching a previous thread and found something that might help. A quote from Icemark (RIP).

It gives a little about what you already know, and hopefully some of what you didn't. Not sure if those 4 screws are the only of the 21 that you need to remove or not. Hope this helps.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, thats good info! That helps alot but Im not totally sure I follow. I took the clear part and black surround front off and see the tach front (along with all the other gauges), but still not sure of the 4 screws???? So I guess if I remove those 4 screws in the back and the tach just pulls off?

I did clean the clear plastic with Novus plastic polish and it looks brand new!)

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Tach is out. I'm not sure what a 'pot' is but in the picture I assume the plastic one is in the upper circuit board (VR-1) and the metal is in the lower (VR-2) part of the board (you might not be able to see)? Is this Right??

Which way do I rotate this metal pot? Counterclockwise or Clockwise?? Do I assume Clockwise to increasre the rpm the buzzer goes off?? Remember my buzzer goes off now 2000RPM. Sorry for dumb question but I want it done right to not have to go back in and pull the gauges out.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Well I got impatient and adjusted what I thought was the metal pot as far clockwise as it would turn. There was a tap that stops how far you can turn it. I slapped everything back together and started up the car, reved her up and no buzzer. Hopefully this fully corrected it. I'll find out next week when I drive it.

Jpk3200

Pot = potentiometer = variable resistor, which explains why they called it 'VR-1' and 'VR-2'.

How many revolutions did you turn it? Hopefully you didn't turn it way past what you needed. I suspect that you will have to rev fairly high to make the buzzer go off. Although, you will find out soon enough and make any needed adjustments.

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

I rotated it as far as I could clockwise. It was about less than 1/2 a turn. I marked it with a sharpie first to have a reference and turned it until the tab hit. I'll drive it next week and report back because I know others have the same problem. Thanks for your help Jpk3200!

jdonnell

iTrader: (1)

Well, I may get flamed but I could not get this damn buzzer to stop. My last attempt silenced the buzzer for approximatly 2 days and then came back with a nonstop vengence. Only when I have the clutch disengaged it stops. Its out for good. I figure with 187K on the car its no big deal.........