Instrument Cluster - Tach Buzzer Adjustment
2 Attachment(s)
How do I go about adjusting the tach buzzer? I had a thread on cluster removal, but since folks have trouble with 'buzzer' issues, I thought a new thread would be good.
My buzzer goes off above 2K rpm. At idle no buzzer. Oil, coolant full and coolant bled. One day long ago I read you could adjust the buzzer but I could not find it in the search. I finally got the cluster switch out now need help again. Buzzer is in low right hand corner and shown (white box). 1) Now how do I take apart this circuit board w/o screwing up everything? Do all screws come out? 2) How do you adjust the rpm to activate the buzzer (assuming thats my problem)? Thanks......... |
Originally Posted by jdonnell
(Post 9178200)
2) How do you adjust the rpm to activate the buzzer (assuming thats my problem)?
|
Thanks. What about disassembly of the greenboard. Do I take all those screws (I think 21) out to lift the back part off? Some screws are silver and some appear brass. I dont want to f' it up on the inside. Seems like alot screws to hold just the back on.
|
Originally Posted by jdonnell
(Post 9178323)
Thanks. What about disassembly of the greenboard. Do I take all those screws (I think 21) out to lift the back part off? Some screws are silver and some appear brass. I dont want to f' it up on the inside. Seems like alot screws to hold just the back on.
Originally Posted by Icemark
(Post 4345819)
...The over rev buzzer is adjustable by a pot on the back of the tach.
If you look at the circuit board on the back of the tach (not the gauges, but the actual tach itself- 4 screws and remove it from the gauge assembly to get to the circuit board). Anyway on the circuit board there is two (yep that is 2) adjustment pots. You want the metal one. Each half turn is worth about 500 RPM. But do not touch the plastic pot as that adjusts the calibration for the tach itself. Only the metal pot adjusts the calibration of the over rev... |
Thanks, thats good info! That helps alot but Im not totally sure I follow. I took the clear part and black surround front off and see the tach front (along with all the other gauges), but still not sure of the 4 screws???? So I guess if I remove those 4 screws in the back and the tach just pulls off?
I did clean the clear plastic with Novus plastic polish and it looks brand new!) |
3 Attachment(s)
Tach is out. I'm not sure what a 'pot' is but in the picture I assume the plastic one is in the upper circuit board (VR-1) and the metal is in the lower (VR-2) part of the board (you might not be able to see)? Is this Right??
Which way do I rotate this metal pot? Counterclockwise or Clockwise?? Do I assume Clockwise to increasre the rpm the buzzer goes off?? Remember my buzzer goes off now 2000RPM. Sorry for dumb question but I want it done right to not have to go back in and pull the gauges out. |
Well I got impatient and adjusted what I thought was the metal pot as far clockwise as it would turn. There was a tap that stops how far you can turn it. I slapped everything back together and started up the car, reved her up and no buzzer. Hopefully this fully corrected it. I'll find out next week when I drive it.
|
Originally Posted by jdonnell
(Post 9186861)
Tach is out. I'm not sure what a 'pot' is but in the picture I assume the plastic one is in the upper circuit board (VR-1) and the metal is in the lower (VR-2) part of the board (you might not be able to see)? Is this Right??
How many revolutions did you turn it? Hopefully you didn't turn it way past what you needed. I suspect that you will have to rev fairly high to make the buzzer go off. Although, you will find out soon enough and make any needed adjustments. |
I rotated it as far as I could clockwise. It was about less than 1/2 a turn. I marked it with a sharpie first to have a reference and turned it until the tab hit. I'll drive it next week and report back because I know others have the same problem. Thanks for your help Jpk3200!
|
1 Attachment(s)
Well, I may get flamed but I could not get this damn buzzer to stop. My last attempt silenced the buzzer for approximatly 2 days and then came back with a nonstop vengence. Only when I have the clutch disengaged it stops. Its out for good. I figure with 187K on the car its no big deal.........
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:52 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands