Innovate LC-1/Dynotune install
#1
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Innovate LC-1/Dynotune install
I have the Dynotune wideband kit using the Innovate LC-1 controller. In the docs for the LC-1, it states that the Blue and White ground wires should be soldered together and mounted on one lug. The Dynotune instructions makes a big deal about NOT having the ground wires connected near each other.
What's the deal?
What's the deal?
#3
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Thread Starter
How good is the 'simulated narrowband'? The existing O2 bung on my headers is downstream far enough. Just wondering if I can run the LC-1 to the ECU just fine or if I should get a 2nd bung welded in so I can use both.
Thanks
Andy
Thanks
Andy
#5
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Thread Starter
Finally making some progress on this and I've been looking at the FSM wiring diagrams. It looks like the O2 sensor connects to the ECU on 2 different pins; 2D in plug EM-31 and 3G in EM-03. But 3G also looks like it goes straight to ground. What's going on? Do I need to splice into both wires?
#7
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Thread Starter
Well, I finally got the system in. I replaced the factory sensor with the wideband and tried to use the simulated narrowband output to run into the ECU. I'm getting readings on the gauge, but the ECU is throwing the O2 sensor error code. I haven't had a chance to connect to the controller to check the outputs (damn antiquated serial ports) but all I know is that the narrowband is a 0-1v signal of some sort. Assuming the controller is actually putting out the correct signal, what could be causing the error code?
As far as interpreting the gauge, the readings are all over the place. Under any decel at all, the gauge pegs at 20. I know decel is supposed to be lean, and I still have the air pump, so hopefully this is a reasonable condition. At idle and cruise, it jumps around between 15 and 17. I'm thinking this is because of the O2 sensor error in the ECU and the additions of the air pump. At WOT, it reads slightly rich, jumping lean for a second when the aux ports open. I'll need to log it to get a better idea of what's going on.
From a couple quick searches, it seems like the air pump isn't injecting any air under load or at high RPMs, so the readings I'm getting at WOT should be accurate despite the pump. Correct?
As far as interpreting the gauge, the readings are all over the place. Under any decel at all, the gauge pegs at 20. I know decel is supposed to be lean, and I still have the air pump, so hopefully this is a reasonable condition. At idle and cruise, it jumps around between 15 and 17. I'm thinking this is because of the O2 sensor error in the ECU and the additions of the air pump. At WOT, it reads slightly rich, jumping lean for a second when the aux ports open. I'll need to log it to get a better idea of what's going on.
From a couple quick searches, it seems like the air pump isn't injecting any air under load or at high RPMs, so the readings I'm getting at WOT should be accurate despite the pump. Correct?
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#8
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Thread Starter
A video of what I'm seeing on the gauge:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_H9PA-uRRGA
The blinking light on the left is my O2 sensor error...
Also, I double checked my wiring against the FSM wiring diagrams. The fuel and emission control section doesn't list any wiring colors. The wiring diagrams have colors, but they don't match the colors on my harness. All but 2 of the wires match. The 2 that don't are (conveniently) 2C and 2D. 2C, which is supposed to be a ground, is listed as a black wire in the FSM, but my harness has a brown/blue wire. 2D, the O2 sensor, should be GY (grey? couldn't find the color codes) but on the harness, it's black. I'm connected to 2D, hopefully just the colors are wrong.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_H9PA-uRRGA
The blinking light on the left is my O2 sensor error...
Also, I double checked my wiring against the FSM wiring diagrams. The fuel and emission control section doesn't list any wiring colors. The wiring diagrams have colors, but they don't match the colors on my harness. All but 2 of the wires match. The 2 that don't are (conveniently) 2C and 2D. 2C, which is supposed to be a ground, is listed as a black wire in the FSM, but my harness has a brown/blue wire. 2D, the O2 sensor, should be GY (grey? couldn't find the color codes) but on the harness, it's black. I'm connected to 2D, hopefully just the colors are wrong.
#10
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afrs: i assume its a stock ecu s4 na?
idle should be in the 16-18:1 range, the engine is running 12ish, but the air pump air is added in at the exhaust PORT AIR, and it'll read lean like that
cruise: 1500-3500 it should be 14.7:1 plus or minus, i notice on mine the lower rpms, its still getting air pump air and will run 15's sometimes, there are lots of latencies with throttle changes too.
decel; fuel is cut, so it'll read all the way lean, or 20:1
WOT; yours is leaner than mine by like 1/2 a point or something, mine is low 12's @4000, and then it leans out to upper 12's to about 6500, then it goes rich
s5 is less latent at cruise, and way richer @wot
idle should be in the 16-18:1 range, the engine is running 12ish, but the air pump air is added in at the exhaust PORT AIR, and it'll read lean like that
cruise: 1500-3500 it should be 14.7:1 plus or minus, i notice on mine the lower rpms, its still getting air pump air and will run 15's sometimes, there are lots of latencies with throttle changes too.
decel; fuel is cut, so it'll read all the way lean, or 20:1
WOT; yours is leaner than mine by like 1/2 a point or something, mine is low 12's @4000, and then it leans out to upper 12's to about 6500, then it goes rich
s5 is less latent at cruise, and way richer @wot
#11
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Thread Starter
Yep, stock s4 na, N327. So the fuel looks good at least. I've been having issues with stuttering up high; above 5500 rpms. At first I was afraid it was going lean. Now I'm not sure what could be causing it. Sometimes the afr drops into the 10s up top. Could that be too rich? Maybe I have an ignition problem? I just put new plugs and wires in though....
Also, what will be the consequences of driving around with the O2 sensor error? Just a loss of gas mileage? Or do I risk damaging something?
The project never ends.
Also, what will be the consequences of driving around with the O2 sensor error? Just a loss of gas mileage? Or do I risk damaging something?
The project never ends.
#12
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Thread Starter
Problem solved. When Dynotune programmed the LC-1 for their gauge, they replaced the simulated narrow band output. Out #2 was just the default 0-5v. I'm surprised the ECU even tried to interpret that... Programmed the LC-1 with the right numbers and everything's shiny.
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