ramello

iTrader: (1)

I need some help wiring up the hazard switch. I am tieing into a painless harness
Essentially I have the regular turn signal working properly but I cant get the hazard switch to work in any means and cant quite figure it out.
I have a wire from my harness that shows 12v when battery is connected and runs to my hazard flasher.
The switch has a G/O and G/W wire to work with. (Theres also a ground tied to the switch (B/L) but I dont think thats completely related other than for the lights in the switch)

They are definitely not a direct feed to the switch. It seems when you tie power into the G/W and turn the switch on it lights the switch up
The only way I was able to get all four to light up was tieing leads from all four bulbs to both G/O and G/W and putting my harness lead to it. However it worked regardless of whether the hazard switch was on or off. The only difference was when it was on the switch lit and blinked.

HELP! What am I missing?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Not familiar w/ the S5 wiring so post a pic of the wiring diagram and I "might" be able to help you. So post a pic and not a link.

ramello

iTrader: (1)

its not s5 its s4

satch

iTrader: (1)

G/O needs to be connected to LG of connector F-55 which is found at the bottom of the CPU. Of course the Black wire at the hazard switch is the ground and the R/B wire at the same switch comes from the headlight switch for illiumination puposes. G/W connects to the front side of FC-01 which is located behind the gauge cluster and just to the right of the gauge cluster connector that brings together both of the gauge cluster harnesses.

ramello

iTrader: (1)

only problem is im not using the CPU
im wiring the car with a painless harness......nothing is factory except for the switch.
and R/G is the illumination not R/B but that was already taken care of.
and its not a B its a B/L wire that is the ground although im not sure that makes a difference.

so the question becomes is there a way to make the switch work without the CPU?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Sorry about the typo for I meant "R/G." The B/L wire that initially went to the hazard CPU was constant voltage from the battery bus. If that's not the wire you speak of I am not sure where you are getting it from. How are you planning to get the hazards to flash w/o the hazard circuit board?

ramello

iTrader: (1)

the harness has a flasher built in.....but it only has a one wire feed

let me draw up something quick to make it easier to see what im dealing with....

satch

iTrader: (1)

From the wiring diagram the hazard switch passed a ground from the Black wire onto the G/O wire which then passed the ground onto the LG wire. This LG wire then would supply a ground to a relay inside the CPU which already had constant voltage from the B/L wire. Then the voltage from the relay was passed onto the G/B and G/W wires that led to the hazard lights.

To use your existing switch then instead of the Black ground wire passing the ground onto the G/O wire, then the B wire needs to be a constant voltage wire that will pass power onto the G/O wire when the button is depressed and this voltage would need to be connected to a device to cause a flashing voltage to blink the lights and then this device would also need to be connected to the G/B and G/W wires. Hope this helps.

ramello

iTrader: (1)

ok here we go
you can see the plug on the wiper/hazard switch and the color wires are designated within the switch
the colors outside the switch come from my harness

The terminal labeled "E" does have a B/L wire not just B
Terminal "HZ" is the G/O and terminal "HW" is G/W
The rest of the terminals are hooked to the wipers or not being used (no rear wiper on this car)

The chart on the bottom comes from the harness install manual with all the wires.
All of the wires are ok and hooked up except for the BRN wire #951 which says to hook to the Switch Power......you can see it comes from the flasher relay for the hazards

Let me know if that helps better....

ramello

iTrader: (1)

So according to your post #8
my BRN #951 on my harness needs to go to the "E" terminal with the black wire and when the button is pressed I will see power to G/O

satch

iTrader: (1)

EDIT:
I'm busy helping others and really haven't had a chance to look at your chart for my eyes are spinning as is but if a wire with constant voltage was connected to or replaced the Black wire at the swithch then yes it would cause voltage to be passed onto the G/O wire. There would be some minor changes made to the two bulbs inside the switch. These two bulbs obviously require a ground and voltage to work. If the Black wire or wire that replaces it has voltage on it then these bulbs would have to be rewired as follows. The bulb that received voltage from R/G would now need a new ground because initially it got its ground from the Black wire so it could be turned on by the light switch as you still would want it to. The other bulb if connected to G/O which it was originally, would now be receiving voltage from this wire (and not a ground as it was previously wired up) so when the button is depressed this bulb that was originally connected to G/W (and G/O) would also need a ground. Of course you could use the same ground for both bulbs but G/W would not be needed for wiring to the hazard switch for its job was to provide voltage to this second bulb.

ramello

iTrader: (1)

thanks a bunch for the help..........
i guess my question is how to wire in that new ground now...
would I be able to solder a ground onto the contact point near the bulbs?

satch

iTrader: (1)

In looking at the diagram again I noticed a diode that is inline with the original ground wire that connects to the bulb that had the G/W wire feeding it power. Not sure if this diode would allow voltage to pass through it so you would want to test that light first thing. You would send voltage onto the original Black wire and put a ground to the place where the G/W wire went into the switch housing and press the button and see if the light illiuminates or not. Ihave reservations that it might not work. In giving this more thought there is an alternative which will work and it would be as follows.

The Black wire that originally serves as a ground could still do so and this would mean no rewiring for the two bulbs but it would require the introduction of a relay that has constant voltage to it and is awaiting a ground signal to work. The ground signal would come from the hazard switch. The type of relay you would need is "exactly" like the headlight relay found on our cars. If you look at the online diagram it is a relay that already has constant voltage on the coil and relay contact and awaits a ground signal to operate and then it passes voltage through it to whatever you have it connected to. The more I think of it this seems to be the best avenue for there are less unknowns and you would not have to rely on rewiring the bulbs and "hope" it works. Sometimes the second idea is the best idea.

ramello

iTrader: (1)

Somewhere there is confusion
I put 12v to the B wire on the E terminal and turned the switch on and got noting at G/O or G/W\

Back to the drawing board....

satch

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satch

iTrader: (1)

The second idea I offered is probably best suited for your situation, as I guess the switch contact that was designed for a ground to pass through it is not allowing current to pass through in the same fashion, but still my second idea would create less worry and fewer changes.

ramello

iTrader: (1)

yea i have that diagram.....

ok so lets walk this through hooking up a relay.....
I would hook the #951 harness wire to the 30 terminal (constant battery)
85 goes to a regular ground
87 to the bulbs
86 my switched power would be G/O ?

ramello

iTrader: (1)

ok so it looks like i potentially damaged the switch at some point.....i did a continuity check on E and G/O with the switch on and I get nothing.........
what should i look at doing to fix this aside from getting a new switch???
unless im wrong and the switch is ok.....

satch

iTrader: (1)

There should be continuity between these two points. Did you by chance do a continuity test earlier on this switch?

ramello

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switch is fried and i now fried my second turn signal switch dammit

this is a pain in the ***........
i tried to solder in some new wires to isolate the switch from control board in the switch to make it more of an on/off like a switch should be but it still didnt work properly....

i might just scrap the whole thing and put in an auxilary switch...im reluctant because i want every switch to work properly

ramello

iTrader: (1)

anyone else with any ideas?

ramello

iTrader: (1)

wheres hailers on this one....